Harold Hall advanced grinding rest

[Technical Ted]

Although I just recently finished up his simple grinding rest, I decided to make the advance rest now. Two reasons: 1) I really like the simple one and the capabilities that it has, but know that the advanced rest would be easier to set angles and be a little nicer to use. 2) I was looking for a nice mill project to do to test out and use my new to me milling machine!

So, as with the simple rest, I started drawing things up in Fusion 360 and started making chips. I usually draw things up as I go and mainly try to keep ahead of the machining. Started with the table, but put that on hold until I receive the flat head hex head screws I ordered so I could fit the countersinks with the actual screws I will be using (#8-32). Today, I squared up and dovetailed the two female slide parts (upper and lower). I'll drill/tap these for the gib screws tomorrow and post pictures of the parts I have so far as long as I don't get too tied up watching football!

So far, I've been happy with the mill. Runs nice and it's a lot easier to crank around than my B&S 2B mill!

Ted

 

[HBilly1022]

I'll be watching this one. I've been thinking of doing the same thing after I finished the simpler rest.

By the way, you don't need to wait for the screws to arrive. For countersink depths there are tables that list the depth and width of the countersunk hole. I discovered this when I made the simpler rest and found it very useful because I could just use the "Z" dro to drill to the correct depth, the first time. No trial and error. I think the info was in Machinery's Handbook but I'm sure you could also Google it.

 

[brino]

I am watching too.

Thanks for sharing this build.
-brino

 

[Technical Ted]

Thanks I've got the charts but to be truthful never use them. Might with Fusion but not while making chips. Fusion actually has a hole function with a countersink option. I'm more comfortable doing it the hard way! No DRO just dials and mechanical stops. Old habits die hard. If the setup allows I'll set the stop after fitting the first one and go from there. A DRO would be nice but if it's too easy it would take all the fun out of it!

Ted

 

[kvt]

Ted, which book are you getting the design out of. I have the Milling for Home machinist which is the USA reprint.
Are you making it Metric or converting size over to Inch.

I will also be watching this one real close as wanted to start on it but
I kind of s____ at Fusion 360 or any of the drawing programs, and what is in the book is not that great.

 

[Technical Ted]

The book I'm using is "Milling a Complete Course"; the original. The drawings in the book certainly are adequate, but I am converting to inch as I go. I usually round to the nearest 1", 3/4", 1/2", etc. when things allow, sometimes nearest 32nd or even 64th. Doing things like this in Fusion 360 is great practice and I'm drawing things much quicker and easier now than I was when I first started so stick with it. You could, though, build it in metric or just convert directly to inch and write the inch dimensions next to the metric ones in the book. I'm sure that would work out fine.

Ted

 

[Andyf]

Just a heads up for you Ted, there were a few modifications for the advanced rest. His web site shows them. Harold Hall Web Link

 

[Technical Ted]

Thanks for the heads up. I did see that and already printed out the drawing for the 3 mods. You can probably see in my CAD drawing I drew the thinner arms. Thanks for the heads up thought. It's nice to know you guys on this list have my back!

Ted

 

[Alan H.]

Ted, curious as to the Fusion model you have created. How many "components" does that assembly have?

BTW, here's what the book looks like, I just ordered it.

 

[Technical Ted]

The drawing has a ways to go to be complete, I still have a lot of components to add, but right now I have I think 10 components. Each individual part is a component, like one side arm is a separate component. The other side arm is a different component even though I copied the first one I drew up. I did create a "Hardware" sub-assembly which contains all the hardware components (like screws, nuts, etc.). I just did this to keep things organized instead of having hardware sprinkled throughout. Now, I could very well have structured some of the components into sub-assemblies i.e. a top dovetail slide, a bottom dovetail slide, a gib, (3) set screws, (3) nuts as a slide sub-assembly, but decided to just use a "flat" structure because it's a pretty simple assembly as a whole. If it were more involved, I most likely would have done so.

As you probably know, in Fusion, a body or group of bodies forming one solid, makes up a component (part) and then the components (parts) make up the assembly, or sub-assembly depending on your structure. An assembly can have multiple sub-assemblies or no sub-assemblies. You build things just like you would make up a Bill of Materials (BOM). You can make a BOM fully "indented" (showing sub-assemblies/structures) or build it "flat" as I did with this model. It's the choice of the person making the model. On very complex assemblies using sub-assemblies where possible would definitely help organization and make a lot of sense.

And, yes, that is the book I have. Very inexpensive.

Thanks for the interest!
Ted