Harbor Freight 4x6 Band Saw Set-up Feedback

[royesses]

Also as you use the saw the blade guide bearings will wear and cause noise and allow the blade to wander. I ordered new bearings from VXB made in Japan. The original bearings feel like they are made out of lumpy chunks of semi hard re-bar. I also removed the paint from both drive and idler wheels when I first got the saw. I use Lenox bi-metal blades. I get them when MSC has a sale going on. I added a hydraulic downfeed too. The legs are very sturdy if you make a base and bolt them to the base.

Roy

 

[francist]

Frank,
Are you talking about the lower or upper blade guides? The upper blade guide seems like it's in the correct position when the saw is running. Currently the blade does not contact the lower blade guide--I slide the guide as far as possible forward, and the blade still doesn't make contact with it, which is why I suspect that the wheel needs shimmed.

Evan

I was talking about the lower guide -- from where I was sitting it looked like there was contact already and may have been holding the blade away from fulling arriving on the wheel. You're in a better vantage to see exactly how they are meeting up though, if at all.

It's been a long time since I had mine apart to rebuild (when I got it used) but I do remember having to shim one wheel at the end of the day to get things to line up right. Trouble is, I can't remember if it was the top wheel or the bottom wheel on mine that needed the shim! It was about 1/4" though -- I made a very thick washer out of some UHMW and it's worked well ever since. It's tough to say if these saws ever have the same problem across the board or whether each one has its own unique quirks.

-frank

 

[Surprman]

Also as you use the saw the blade guide bearings will wear and cause noise and allow the blade to wander. I ordered new bearings from VXB made in Japan. The original bearings feel like they are made out of lumpy chunks of semi hard re-bar. I also removed the paint from both drive and idler wheels when I first got the saw. I use Lenox bi-metal blades. I get them when MSC has a sale going on. I added a hydraulic downfeed too. The legs are very sturdy if you make a base and bolt them to the base.

Roy

The previous owner of my saw had screwed the legs down to a large size HF furniture dolly. It is sturdy and rolls around nicely so I left it that way.

Rick

 

[ACHiPo]

I was talking about the lower guide -- from where I was sitting it looked like there was contact already and may have been holding the blade away from fulling arriving on the wheel. You're in a better vantage to see exactly how they are meeting up though, if at all.

It's been a long time since I had mine apart to rebuild (when I got it used) but I do remember having to shim one wheel at the end of the day to get things to line up right. Trouble is, I can't remember if it was the top wheel or the bottom wheel on mine that needed the shim! It was about 1/4" though -- I made a very thick washer out of some UHMW and it's worked well ever since. It's tough to say if these saws ever have the same problem across the board or whether each one has its own unique quirks.

-frank

Frank,
Thanks for the clarification. I'm sure the lower support wheel is not where it should be, but I'm also sure that's not why the blade is tracking where it is on the lower wheel. I think I'll try cutting a few things and see if things settle in better. I also like the idea of scraping off the paint.

I knew it would be a project when I bought it, so I'm not disappointed. I just need to get out to the shop with the set-up guides from Yahoo Groups and walk through it.

Evan

 

[ACHiPo]

Also as you use the saw the blade guide bearings will wear and cause noise and allow the blade to wander. I ordered new bearings from VXB made in Japan. The original bearings feel like they are made out of lumpy chunks of semi hard re-bar. I also removed the paint from both drive and idler wheels when I first got the saw. I use Lenox bi-metal blades. I get them when MSC has a sale going on. I added a hydraulic downfeed too. The legs are very sturdy if you make a base and bolt them to the base.

Roy

Roy,
Good advice. Thanks!
Evan

 

[ACHiPo]

Well, it's still not a precision machine, but it is quite serviceable after tweaking. The blade tracks well, and cuts square and true. The black gunk (paint?) has been removed from the wheels. Somehow I kinked the first Starrett blade I installed, but it doesn't seem to affect cutting. The gears seem to be quieting down a bit--I'll change the oil after running it for an hour or so to break in the gears.

The blade tension knob was broken in shipping. I can still hold it together to tension the blade, but at some point I want to pop it off and replace it with a machined piece.