Grizzly G0704 Cnc Conversion

I haven't really thought about it yet. What happens if I don't? Obviously the balls need lubricating.

I have no idea if it's needed or not. It does look like it will be essentially impossible to get to the ballnuts to lubricate them, but I was wondering if just putting oil on the screws and running rapids back and forth would work the oil into everyplace it's needed.

Maybe one of the knowledgeable guys on the list here will pass along some wisdom.
 
I have no idea if it's needed or not. It does look like it will be essentially impossible to get to the ballnuts to lubricate them, but I was wondering if just putting oil on the screws and running rapids back and forth would work the oil into everyplace it's needed.

Maybe one of the knowledgeable guys on the list here will pass along some wisdom.

Most ball nuts have a non-metallic wiper on each end to keep out dirt and other debri. These wipers will prevent most, if not all, of the oil reaching the the ball nut internals. You need to come up with a plan to lube your machine, e.g. the ball nuts and the X, Y and Z dovetails. Otherwise you risk rapid wear of your dovetails and ball nuts and screws and ultimate failure of your machine. Probably at the most inopportune time.

Here's a picture of my X axis ball nut and X and Y axis dovetail lubrication feed lines. If you need more pictures let me know.

Tom S.
X Axis Ball Nut Assembly 03.JPG
 
Most ball nuts have a non-metallic wiper on each end to keep out dirt and other debri. These wipers will prevent most, if not all, of the oil reaching the the ball nut internals. You need to come up with a plan to lube your machine, e.g. the ball nuts and the X, Y and Z dovetails. Otherwise you risk rapid wear of your dovetails and ball nuts and screws and ultimate failure of your machine. Probably at the most inopportune time.

Here's a picture of my X axis ball nut and X and Y axis dovetail lubrication feed lines. If you need more pictures let me know.

Tom S.
View attachment 125894

Thanks, Tom,

That oiling system is similar to what Hoss implements in his DVD. I think he did his G0704 in several steps over a year or more. Started with what he calls phase 1, wasn't happy with it so he did phase 2 switching over to Rotron ball screws; wasn't happy enough with that and went to phase 3 with two ball nut screws. Somewhere in there, he added the oiling system and milled slots just like the elongated Z shaped grooves like you show. I'm not sure when it showed up, but I'm pretty sure it was between phase 2 and phase 3.

From where I sit, it's whole 'nother level of complexity and stuff to do, but I can't see anything bad about doing it. Except for figuring out how to do the work. I'm not at all confident I could put the base of my G0704 on my Sherline to make those cuts. Hoss had another big milling machine, a ZX45, to do that work.


Bob
 
Yeah I'm already not sure how I'm cutting the necessary slots in the table. I bought a handheld router and I'm hoping I can use an end mill in it to do the cutting.
 
I installed a one-shot oiling system on my Enco mill drill a few years ago before I had the CNC mill. I drilled and tapped the feed ports in my drill press and cut the oil distribution grooves by eye with a die grinder and a ball nosed carbide burr. Didn't look pretty but the oil doesn't know the difference. It's not that difficult. Just takes time, a few plumbing fittings and about 20 feet of hose. I highly recommend it.

Tom S.
 
Yeah I'm already not sure how I'm cutting the necessary slots in the table. I bought a handheld router and I'm hoping I can use an end mill in it to do the cutting.

I was thinking of using an angle grinder, not a small router. Horrible Freight has a few on sale this month and the mid-cost option is like 22 bucks. I could pick up a die grinder for even less.

Mind you I've never used either one, although a die grinder is kinda like a Dremel on steroids, and I've used Dremels for years.

The local HF store is less than two miles from the house, which is a plus. As for getting a tool there, it is Horrible Freight, after all, but it only has to work for a few hours.
 
I actually bought a grinder recently that I haven't used yet. I may end up doing that once the router idea fails :p
 
I actually bought a grinder recently that I haven't used yet. I may end up doing that once the router idea fails :p

The only thing about the router that gets me is that I've never heard of anyone cutting anything harder than aluminum with one. I think the base of the Griz is cast iron, which isn't as bad as stainless or tool steel, but sure isn't aluminum.

At least an angle grinder is regularly used on steel, and is one of the tools Hoss recommends - in that part where he says it doesn't have to be pretty, just cut away in places.
 
A router will work on cast iron with a carbide ball end mill. I would use a 1/8" dia. but it will require a bushing for most routers. Set up a jig to guide both sides of the router and take light cuts, 0.020". Let the cutter cut and don't force it. I would do it outside with a fan to blow the cast dust away and wear a mask, goggles etc.
 
A router will work on cast iron with a carbide ball end mill. I would use a 1/8" dia. but it will require a bushing for most routers. Set up a jig to guide both sides of the router and take light cuts, 0.020". Let the cutter cut and don't force it. I would do it outside with a fan to blow the cast dust away and wear a mask, goggles etc.

Cool. Good to know. Cast iron tends to have sand in it, or in the first few mils right? Is that why you say to do it outdoors?

I think of routers at something like 25,000 RPM. Would it help to slow it down?
 
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