Grizzly 14" bandsw alignment

What do you mean by "it won't cut straight" ? Are you using a full-length fence set square to the table for ripping and a miter guide for cross-cutting? What happens if you just draw a straight line on the wood and hand-guide the workpiece? What's the pitch (teeth/inch) on the blades you are using, and what sort of wood are you working with? I have a Grizzly 14" and it's a workhorse.
 
I have one also (for 22 years...lol!!) and it's been a dandy. But if the guide wheels get misaligned, no amount of fences or guides will make them cut straight.
The video explained several things I never thought of, esp. the root of the tooth (gullet) on the blade needs to be centered, NOT the blade centered on the upper wheel.
 
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Great video, although it reminds me of those guys that demonstrate the DHC torches - "cuts like plasma", look how easy it is to weld a tin can to a #500 anvil, or weld two razor blades together... (Ask them to let you try...). The fellow in the video has some serious skill and all that 'feel' is something you develop, not something you're told.

GsT
 
I had an older Grizzly 14" saw once, long ago, and I can tell you, that if you're trying to make a re-saw out of it with that riser, and actually thinking it will have usable capacity that way, then you're shoveling something really nasty against the tide.
I would get rid of the riser to start with, then align it as best you can with a decent blade, and live with it's standard capacity.

For re-sawing, bite the bullet, and buy one of these blades for the saw, in 1/2" size, 3-4 TPI : https://timberwolfblades.com/index.php.
Don't kid yourself that a wider blade is going to be better - If everything is optimal with that saw, then 1/2" is really the limit, IMHO.
If you want to resaw, then fab up a single point fence (Look it up) - A straight fence won't work well for that, unless every planet in the solar system is aligned, and/or you have, or buy, a much better saw.
 
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