• This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn more.
  • Guest,  We want to wish You and Your Family a Healthy, Happy Thanksgiving! Click the "X" at the top right corner to remove this notice)
  • PLEASE: Read the FORUM RULES BEFORE registering!

4

Got My First Lathe... Logan 1875 - With Restoration.

3
Like what you see?
Click here to donate to this forum and upgrade your account!
10

mikey

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2012
Messages
3,049
Likes
2,966
#91
She's looking beautiful, Mike!

The base cabinets are a bit big for an ERR bath, although it can certainly be done. I think I would opt for a brass brush in a 4" grinder and get most of the rust off, then hit it with Phosphoric Acid spray and while keeping it wet, finish by hand. Then I would prime it and then do the bodywork.

If the door will come off the right side pedestal, it shouldn't be too hard to flatten it.
 

Mr Mike

H-M Supporter - Premium Member
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
121
Likes
99
#92
Today I dilled out the spot welds and removed the door from the right cabinet, you can see in the photo how bad the compound bend is.
I'll run it by a sheet metal shop and see what they say.. its a 1/16 inch piece, I'm pretty sure it will have to be fabricated.

HingeSpotWeld.jpg

I drilled out the spot weld just enough to get the door off just in case I can save it. if so I'll Mig weld it back on.

HingeSpotWeldDrilled.jpg

I have a 20 ton press, but I don't have plates large enough to press this out.. I'll check and see if the steel yard has some scraps.

CabRightDoorBend.jpg

Other than the door.. the right cabinet pedestal is in pretty decent shape... less rust then I would have guessed.

CabRightBottomRust.jpg
 

Bob Korves

H-M Supporter - Premium Member
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2014
Messages
4,036
Likes
4,185
#94
Today I dilled out the spot welds and removed the door from the right cabinet, you can see in the photo how bad the compound bend is.
I'll run it by a sheet metal shop and see what they say.. its a 1/16 inch piece, I'm pretty sure it will have to be fabricated.

View attachment 243901

I drilled out the spot weld just enough to get the door off just in case I can save it. if so I'll Mig weld it back on.

View attachment 243902

I have a 20 ton press, but I don't have plates large enough to press this out.. I'll check and see if the steel yard has some scraps.

View attachment 243903

Other than the door.. the right cabinet pedestal is in pretty decent shape... less rust then I would have guessed.

View attachment 243904
The sheet metal can definitely be brought flat again. The thing you must keep in mind is that the metal must be shrunk where it has been stretched. Any additional stretching caused by pounding on it will only make things ultimately worse.
 

wa5cab

Downloads Moderator
Staff member
H-M Supporter - Sustaining Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2011
Messages
3,766
Likes
724
#95
Not that I need to do it, but how do you shrink metal?
 

Mr Mike

H-M Supporter - Premium Member
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
121
Likes
99
#96
Not that I need to do it, but how do you shrink metal?
I'm guessing a few heat up and slow cool down cycles, while you reshape it. your kinda annealing the steel at the same time to relive the stress hardening that builds up and shrinking it back some after tooling it. Just guessing of course, its what we use to do with copper pipe so we could bend it without breaking it.
 
Last edited:

Mr Mike

H-M Supporter - Premium Member
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
121
Likes
99
#98
She's looking beautiful, Mike!

The base cabinets are a bit big for an ERR bath, although it can certainly be done. I think I would opt for a brass brush in a 4" grinder and get most of the rust off, then hit it with Phosphoric Acid spray and while keeping it wet, finish by hand. Then I would prime it and then do the bodywork.
So I found a different brand of Phosphoric acid at the big box store, it stated exactly on the label for rust removal and inhibits flash rusting.. " all that you stated to a T " Figure this is a good time to give it a shot as you recommended.
I also got some rust transformer for the interior of the cabinet floor - and the top of the cabinet had some rubber feeling compound between it and the chip tray so I got Rust-oleum rubber spray. I've got a spot picked out for the lathe, I'd like to get the bases ready this week so I can get the lathe bed mounted - and back to work on it...

RustSupplies.jpg

I used a wire brush on the grinder to knock off all the rust scale, then fallowing the directions I used a paint brush and the full strength solution to coat and kept wet while scrubbing to loosen the remains.. which I did for about 15 minutes with a bristle brush. And already its looking better after the acid bath, the rust is starting to blacken some after a couple of hours - so far so good..

Original rust found on the bottom right cabinet..

CabBotRust.jpg

After knocking off all the loose rust with a wire brush on a grinder.

CabBotRustRemoval.jpg

Photo below is after scrubbing with phosphoric acid. Per directions after scrubbing, leave it over night then rinse, let it dry and primer it.

I also scrubbed the lower 3 inches of the cabinet sides to see what effect it would have on the paint.. If phosphoric acid has no effect on the painted surfaces then I'll treat the small amount of rust in the cabinet interior as well, I don't want to strip the interior paint off, just etch, prim and paint it..

CabBotRustRemovalPhosAcid.jpg

Photo below is after 12 Hours, Looks like the acid is kicking some rust butt.

CabBotRustRemovalPhosAcid12Hrs.jpg

This photo is at 17 hours, after being rinsed and dried. The rust is either gone or has been neutralized.
The paint on the cabinet sides was etched some but still in-tacked.

WP_20171013_12_08_57_Pro (2).jpg

Lol Just a few rust pits can barely be seen in the newly primed photo below :)
The center beam however is in excellent condition, just a single pitted area in the center of the 1/4" thick bar.

My OCD says I should bondo this and make it look smooth.. fortunately I have a bad memory so I just need to restrain my self till its Upright.

CabBotRustRemovedPrimed.jpg

The bent door from this cabinet is on hold for now as it's not essential to readying the cabinets.

Id love some advice / opinions about leg levelers.. I would like to have the stands off the cement a couple inches and be able to accurately level out the stand. The support beam in the middle of each stand has a 1/2 inch diameter hole at the front and rear of each stand, can I attach leg levelers those points or is that only for direct mounting to concrete..?

Edit: I called Logan Act. There tech support will call me on Monday.
Interestingly they make Mining safety equipment as there main business now.


CabRightBottomRust.jpg LegLeveler.jpg
 
Last edited:

mikey

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2012
Messages
3,049
Likes
2,966
#99
Looks like the Phos. Acid worked well, Mike, although its hard to tell from pics. If you have a lot of white crystals you can spray it with diluted PA and wipe it off, let it dry and then prime and paint.

Hard to tell how thick the support bar is; looks to be 1/4"? If so, its probably a bit thin; the existing bar looks bent up at the ends. Personally, I would cut off that bar and weld on a 3/8" to 1/2" thick bar and then mount levelers or leveling casters. I prefer Carrymaster leveling casters myself.
 

Mr Mike

H-M Supporter - Premium Member
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
121
Likes
99
Today I ran into a little issue.. I have the right pedestal set aside all ready to prime, sand and paint, But the left pedestal I can't lift onto the work bench to gut the mechanicals out, So I figured I would run out get some supplies - and make a wooden gantry and mount a simple rope pulley to it..

Off to Harbor Freight I go.. I got the stuff I need and headed out to the big box store for wood. I'm pretty good at just getting what I need and leave but out the corner of my Eye I spot a the new Vulcan 215 Mig welder in the 3 day sale tent for 200.00 off. I've been looking at CL over the last couple months to find a replacement for my Lincoln sp175 welder thats 20+ yrs old with no luck. And every-time I'm at HF I keep looking at this new Vulcan line which they claim is equal to Lincoln and Miller for half the cost - and each time I just tell my self its HF it has to be junk. I've looked at a couple reviews and read on a couple sites that these welders were designed by a real engineer from Lincoln, so while I was there I asked to see a manger and told them my concerns and asked if it was really designed by a Lincoln Engineer - without hesitation he said yes it was.

Now I now your laughing in your chair so hard tears are coming out, But HF is trying to improve there brand with some new tool lines.. and it just so happens that they jacked a Lincoln engineer to design their new Vulcan welder line-up, so if there are any hiccups or issues with this first run of machines then all the R&D they put into this new line will go up in flames, along with there comparison claims of equality with Red and Blue.

If you thought you were done crying - oh no, theres more.. It was priced like that because it was an open box ( Store calls it a rental ) that some one bought and returned - It gets even better.. hope you have a towel - because it was a return and was price to move, It only has a 5 day return policy. I went trough the contents of the box pulling everything out and checking against what should be there - checked the welder over and all the contents, which were still in their plastic bags... The accessories box still taped which means this welder appears to have never been used, Or the person but it all back tit for tat.

I only have 5 days to make sure theres no issue, so I head strait home to set it up for some test welds. I hook everything up, don my helmet open gas valve... Nope.. my tanks empty, and go figure its the weekend. I already know the welding stores are closed.. so I hit the net looking to find a place to refill on a weekend, I searched and made calls with no luck... I had one last idea to try out hydroponic stores. I called another dozen places and finally found one that has CO2, Unfortunately they only carry 5-10 and 20lb filled tanks.

Knowing I only have today and tomorrow to test this out or bring it back, I went ahead and bought the 20lb filled tank went home and did some test welds, I soon found out after only a couple of welds that its easily better then my old SP175 because of the newer technology it has like Pre and Post gas, Synergy setup, 110v or 220v, a better duty cycle to name a few. The only con I see right off the batt on this welder is the torch which seems a bit flimsy, real light and looks like it would break after a few falls, the work clamps good - knobs all rotate smooth, and case feels sturdy.

Last but not least, The test welds I did looked just as good as with my Lincoln but now I should be able to do single pass on 1/4" with out stopping to cool down every few minutes because I have more head room.

Unfortunately I wasted a whole day running around calling to get this welder tested out. I had to because I would not have any time during the week to do this. And I really need a new welder for a future fence project I've been putting off.

NewVulcan215MigWelder.jpg

So it was a good day all in all but I got nothing done on the Lathe today ..!
Tomorrow Ill build a gantry and get back to work & be ready next weekend to paint the pedestals and chip tray hopefully.

I usually get allot done on weekends so I just thought I'd show you why I didn't this weekend.
 

Mr Mike

H-M Supporter - Premium Member
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
121
Likes
99
Not looking for sympathy "crap happens".. Just giving an update on my inability to get anything done on my Restoration project..
Things are still going... just really slow. Late Sunday night somebody broke in my truck an stole all my tools, I'm an on call service tech so the tools I use for work are the same tools I use for home..

They new what they were doing and didn't open doors to trip the alarm, So yesterday and today I have been running all over replacing things, many Items had to be replaced by purchasing on-line.

Police really cant help - pawn shops wont give out any info, If you do an Insurance claim then they raise your rates.. Is what it is..

Unfortunately the snug top cover was down but not locked because the wife needed to barrow an extension cord, I forgot to put it back and lock it. they wouldn't have gotten away with so much but I had a portable dolly in the back - with every thing neatly stored in milk style crates.

TruckBreakIn.jpg

On the plus side I almost have the gantry done..) That way I don't have to break my back lifting the pedestals.
It will pick up the small pedestal, but not the large one using a two wheel pulley system so I need to make or buy a four wheeled one..
All thats needed now to finish the Gantry is to add a removable Front and Rear lateral cross member at the base and 45 Deg bracing between the upper corner gussets.

Gantry1.jpg Gantry.jpg

The nice thing about this project Is I get to make all kinds custom ancillary support devices.
 

mikey

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2012
Messages
3,049
Likes
2,966
Wow, that truly sucks. I'm sorry to hear about this, Mike. Karma will take care of those bozos.

Have you spoken to your insurance agent? If they increase your premiums because of something like this then maybe they aren't the right company to be receiving you money.
 

Mr Mike

H-M Supporter - Premium Member
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
121
Likes
99
Wow, that truly sucks. I'm sorry to hear about this, Mike. Karma will take care of those bozos.

Have you spoken to your insurance agent? If they increase your premiums because of something like this then maybe they aren't the right company to be receiving you money.
No I haven't talked to my Insurance agent, the company I work for offered to split the bill with me thou - including a new microwave alarm system which will sound an alert if their too close, and go off if they touch the truck.

The last time one of my vehicles was broke into I called the police and had to go down to the station to fill out a report, just so I could file a claim with the insurance and by the time your done you wast an entire days pay and your deductible you'll get less then half + lost wages = not worth the aggravation..

Tonight I gutted the Large pedestal - definitely not an original motor and all the rubber support bushings and pulley bearings are shot, Glad I didn't test run the lathe at all... )
 

mikey

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2012
Messages
3,049
Likes
2,966
Yeah, well, it still sucks. Glad your company is helping, though.
 

Mr Mike

H-M Supporter - Premium Member
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
121
Likes
99
The inside of the cabinet and all the internals are in pretty good shape, I've been lucky so far - I haven't seen any metal parts thus far screaming for replacement at me. Some hardware, all belts, pillow block bearings and rubber bushing will need replacement.

An additional aluminum motor mount adapter or extension plate was added at some point, of no useful purpose that I can tell. Maybe to add to the length a half inch because of incorrect hardware on hand.

Visible rust is thin and confined to bare metal parts mostly.

InternalMotorPullys.jpg

I attempted to disassemble the counter shaft pulley assembly but the counter shaft pulley and four step pulley "hex set screws" are frozen...
I sprayed them with some PB and will let it soak in over night - Fingers crossed.

I have the parts breakdown book but it doesn't call out any sizes for parts, the bearings are a bit pricey on the website at 48.00 each, but the belts are very reasonable. Im sure I can find a suitable replacement bearing after I press them out and size them.

There were no rubber bushings listed on the Logan Site.. Hopefully I can make / Find some.

CounterShaft4Vpully.jpg

After soaking in PB, pulley assemblies and bearings came apart without much effort.

PB.jpg

An Aluminum counter shaft pulley was in the mix which kinda surprised me, red arrow.
The pillow block bearings required allot less force to remove then I was expecting.

AluCounterShaftPulley.jpg
 
Last edited:

Mr Mike

H-M Supporter - Premium Member
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
121
Likes
99
In order to disassemble and press out the bearings I used PB spray, the pulleys and counter shaft pulleys are keyed and only required the use of a rubber mallet to remove from the 3/4" shafts.

RustedPulleys.jpg

It didn't take much effort to de-rust and clean the Parts, Electrolysis, purple power and fine Scotch bright pads.
I also picked up new bearings for the pillow blocks - The bearings are Deep Grove R12-ZZ at $8.18 Each.

RustedPulleysCleaned.jpg

The photo of these two 4 Step Pulleys shows off the power of Electrolytic rust removal, Not days.. just four Hrs @ 3.5 Amps is all it took.
I was going to do a test between Electrolysis and Evapo-Rust, But there would be no advantage to using Evapo-Rust with these parts.. Once you get the hang of it - electrolysis will be your favorite go to method for cleaning & rust removal - it requires no pre-cleaning, no De-greasing and little effort.

RustedPulleyCleanPulley2.jpg

The first bearing I attempted to remove with a 12 ton press was moving with a poping noise.. as if it would release and move only when it reached a threshold that exceeded its resistance to move after a couple of press strokes. To reduce the chance of galling the pillow blocks, I soaking them with the PB spray for about 30 minutes.. then the bearings were removed with little effort.

RustedPillowBlock.jpg

These Pillow blocks may have been the perfect parts to try Evapo-Rust on but after I soaked them with Purple Power to clean and degrease them, It took less then 5 minutes each with a Scotch Bright pad to finish them off. I did the same with the 2 Shafts and counter pulley which came out looking nice too after touching up the missing paint.

RustedPillowBlockCleaned.jpg

Things were moving along nice today, tomorrow Ill try and finish the remaining motor assembly portion and begin creating the mold ill need to replace the rubber motor mounts.
 
Last edited:

Mr Mike

H-M Supporter - Premium Member
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
121
Likes
99
Today I finished the remaining motor cabinet parts, the Upper & Lower Pulley mounts, Motor pulley, Tension handle and Bushing retainers.
The parts were in pretty good shape with a small amount rust. I used Purple Power to thoroughly clean, and Phosphoric Acid to remove most the rust and etch the intact paint - then a light primer coat, fallowed by 2 coats of Rustoleum Dark Gray.

InternalMotorPullys.jpg

MotorAssemblyPartsDurty.jpg

MotorAssemblyPartsDurty2.jpg

MotorAssemblyParts.jpg

There are a couple other parts that were done too but didn't get into the photos, Everything came out great.. Most all Motor cabinet parts have been completed, leaving the motor cabinet next up for paint prep, The storage cabinet is already prepped for paint,

I also started on the Negative mold creation for the rubber bushings, I have all the necessary measurements and the 2 part urethane to create the Pour Mold. I'm going to use the lathe to create the Negative from a blank of Durhams rock hard water putty, because the original bushing is deformed.

RubberBushingMold.jpg

Another good days run.. I'm starting to get a good amount of finished parts sitting in the spare room to cure.. Love it.
 
Last edited:

Mr Mike

H-M Supporter - Premium Member
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
121
Likes
99
I thought someone might find this next couple photos interesting along with some info, I do allot of testing while i'm messing around with Electrolysis but not all ways sharing the boring stuff.. I've literally got hundreds of photos that don't make it on here because it would make this forum thread about this restore project many many times as longer.. But I think this tidbit of info has some value to it.

This two step pulley was pulled from the Electrolysis tank exactly 1 hour into the rust removal bath, the top was covered with rust to start with.
I haven't confirmed this yet but it looks like the rust is being attacked at the edges of the thick rust pockets, all the rust around the circumference has been removed leaving the heaver pockets . all I did was use a nylon brush to lightly brush away a thin scum layer revealing the remaining rust pockets.

Original I was thinking that bubbles were originating behind the rust and separating it from the metal, Now I'm thinking the Electrolysis is attacking and consuming the rust its self.

I am probably taking this whole electrolysis thing to seriously, But I've almost got this rust removal down to a science now, and every time I change a variable I learn something new, I really wish I could find some official literature on the subject that would go in to detail about hydrogen embitterment.. because Id hate to find out down the road that I goofed up when its too late..

Ive read some stories of springs breaking while under tension while doing electrolysis and nuts & bolts shattering on bridges after being subjected to Electrolysis, Kinda scary..!

2StepPulleyHalfRust.jpg

This next photo are for people that are trying to figure out how much amperage is going into the tank using there old transformer charger.
you have seen me use my cheap amp meter to get and show an amp figure with it..

I knew Id be doing some Electrolysis this weekend so brought my AC/DC amp meter home from work, you can see in the photo that my cheap AC meter reads almost exactly half the amp value my DC amp meter is registering.

If you get a cheap $13.00 amp meter from Harbor fright, then you just need to double the value shown and you will be close. I verified this by changing variables in the electrolysis tank and in every case the value displayed on the cheap ac meter was always half of the DC amp meter.. I'm guessing that only half the AC sign-wave is being rectified leaving a pulsed AC that never reverses, that might explain why the cheap AC meter can read it. But it also makes me wonder if the DC amp meter readings are good.

Ill be doing more testing as time goes by and to try and figure out how to get an automatic charger to work without having a battery in series.

AmpMeters.jpg
 
Last edited:

mikey

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2012
Messages
3,049
Likes
2,966
My impression of hydrogen embrittlement is that it is temporary and the effects of it are gone in a few weeks. I have nothing authoritative to back this up but my experience says it is not a real issue to be overly concerned about. I've done my 75# anvil with ERR and have hit red hot steel on it multiple times since then with no signs of cracking, chipping or breaking. I've also done reel mower blades with ERR and no issues with chipping, early dulling or breakage. Good enough for me.
 

Mr Mike

H-M Supporter - Premium Member
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
121
Likes
99
My impression of hydrogen embrittlement is that it is temporary and the effects of it are gone in a few weeks. I have nothing authoritative to back this up but my experience says it is not a real issue to be overly concerned about. I've done my 75# anvil with ERR and have hit red hot steel on it multiple times since then with no signs of cracking, chipping or breaking. I've also done reel mower blades with ERR and no issues with chipping, early dulling or breakage. Good enough for me.
Hi Mike.. I hope your right..!
I have read ( unofficial papers ) its a temporary effect that dissipates over time. And the effects can be mitigated by introducing heat.

lol it would be a Wile E Coyote moment for me if the lathe Bed broke in half while I was using it..) ACME LATHE CO.

Edit: Your not going to believe this, but there's a real ACME LATHE Business in India...
 
Last edited:

Mr Mike

H-M Supporter - Premium Member
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
121
Likes
99
I am going to try and recreate the rubber bushing using a blank made from rock hard water putty.
I've used the stuff in the past and it is Rock hard putty - Its also only 3 bucks, so it warrants a try.

RockPuttyMix.jpg

After the putty set up I removed it from the cup, I started drilling a small hole in the center and noted that the innards weren't hard yet. I put it in the oven at 150 deg for 3 hrs to dry it out..

Again I drilled out the center to mount a bolt so the lathe would have something to hold onto so I could turn the blank.

PuttyCured.jpg

This Rubber bushing was the best of the bunch, so I used it as my model along with a metal bushing support, The rock hard bushing came out pretty good. Ill spray it with primer and fill the voids then seal it.

I didn't run into any problems turning rock hard putty to size on the lathe, The motor mount carriage bar was 3/8 but I drilled out the new blank 1/64" smaller for a snug fit, I have no experience with mold making so it would be great to get it right on the first try - Fingers crossed.

RockPuttyMixNegative.jpg

As you can see.. The hole in the bushing is stretched out and deformed

RockPuttyDupBushing.jpg

If I had to, I could just put the bushings back in and rotate them 180 Deg using the opposite side of the hole, but there hard as rock, cracked and need to be replaced, if not for the extra fun and feeling of accomplishment when I'm done.

RockPuttyMixOldBushing.jpg

Tomorrow Ill try and make a negative mold using a playable OOMOO 30 sores silicon rubber, its intended use is to make exact copies of item and be reusable.. the product is from a company called SMOOTH ON, I watched a couple videos of this stuff in action and it looks promising - I also need to find out what hardness ( Sores ) of 2 part urethane ill need to get to make my rubber bushings out of..
 
Last edited:

Mr Mike

H-M Supporter - Premium Member
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
121
Likes
99
Can you use a hockey puck?
Hello Sir, Funny you should mention Hockey Puck.. I don't remember where I've heard of a puck being used in such a manner, but I have heard of them being used as levelers for heavy equipment and all kinds of other uses..

I probably could create a bushing out of a Hockey Puck if I could find one with the right hardness and density. There are other rubber components missing or in bad shape on this lathe too, and since I cant buy them I thought I'd give it a shot and try an make them.

Thanks for the heads up thou..

Edit: The rubber bushings can still be purchased from Logan Actuator Co. As of 10-24-2017 They have them in stock for about 14.00 each.
 
Last edited:

Mr Mike

H-M Supporter - Premium Member
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
121
Likes
99
I made and painted a four compartment mold box today in hopes of being able to pour some really awesome, cool ( because I made them ) new bushings for my lathe in the coming days. The Rock Hard Putty bushing is ready to make a mold from, and if all goes well I'll start pouring tomorrow to create negatives from it, I bet a few of you guys out there would have used a 3D printer to make four bushing to mold negatives from in a single pour.

MoldBox.jpg
MoldBoxReady.jpg

I started working on the Motor Cabinet removing as much rust as I could with a twisted wire brush. then scrubbed it with Phosphoric acid, I'll let it sit on the cabinet over night before rinsing it off. I wil post a photo or two under this one showing the end result of the rusted bottom tomorrow.

MotorCabBotRust.jpg

The phosphoric acid did an excellent job removing rust, the motor cabinet has allot more pot holes then the storage cabinet.
Again the 1/4 inch beam at the center of the cabinet has much less damage then the 1/8" plate its attached to.

MotorCabBotRustDone.jpg

All primed up and no where to go.. Both cabinets are mechanically and cosmetically in good shape excluding the floor pans and should paint up nicely.

Tomorrow I'm going to paint the bottom of both cabinets with a durable coating ( I'm thinking a bed liner paint ) so this cant happen again, and set them aside to thoroughly dry before putting them on carpeted 4 wheel dollies. If all goes well I'll paint the chip pan this weekend so I can test out the HVLP pressure pot spray gun I got a Harbor Freight, and learn about its quirks an settings.

MotorCabBotRustPrimer.jpg
 
Last edited:

Mr Mike

H-M Supporter - Premium Member
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
121
Likes
99
I got up early and called Logan Actuator, I talked to an engineer and asked about the 1/4 beam at the bottom of each cabinet.. I wanted to know if the 5/8" holes in the bar are for securing the cabinet to cement or if they can be used to mount leg levelers on - He said both, He also stated that royal machine levelers should be used, I've goggled them and their a bit pricey but worth it.. I think this is the one Royal Machine Mount.

I told him that I was restoring a lathe, and told him I was getting ready to make some rubber bushings for the motor mounts.. lol he rattled off the dimensions and the part number as if he just made them and said they have them in stock. I'm thinking damn I've made the mold already..! we talked very briefly so I didn't get allot of info..

LOL on the plus side I did pour the first of four molds today, its nice to know if I fail.. I can still buy them :)

I do not recommend this particular smooth on oomoo 30 silicone rubber mold mix, because it is way to viscus to determine when to stop pouring, And that should have been the easy part because I made the box to the same hight as the part so I would know when to stop.. and It was near impossible to not introduce bubbles during the mixing phase, to be fair I did buy it at a craft store and it clearly states on the instruction which are in the box that it should be used very soon because it has a short unopened shelf life.

Never the less I'm excited to see how this turns out.

MoldBoxFirstPour.jpg
 

Mr Mike

H-M Supporter - Premium Member
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
121
Likes
99
Today I painted the bottom of the cabinets with a rubberized paint that I will top coat with Dark Grey when I am doing the final spray finish..

Sorry I know this whole restoration process seems to be taking a long time..! Half of it is Me - I'm slow, and the other half is just the massive amount prep work it takes to get things ready for painting, And I only have a couple hrs a day to do it.. their getting close thou and will be ready soon.

The rubber mold is coming along fine, and should be done tomorrow.. It takes 6 hrs to cure each pour so I can only do two a day, and one of Negative pours was a failure so I have to redo it.

I also added 11 inches to the width of the Gantry this evening, I was a bit too conservative when I first built it at 37" It's now 48" wide, That way it will be easier to lift the cabinets from their sides to an upright position, lol I see HF is having a sale on an electric winch.. Hmm :)

Before I can paint these up I'll need to make a few simple Tee drying stands to keep them steady and off the ground while the paint cures. then I'll put on the levelers and start to reassemble all thats done up to the lathe bed.. After this is done I expect the hard part will begin.

It's amazing how many life skills it takes to do a project like this. Or I should say to make it easier. Ever since I was a kid I was always tearing things apart to see what makes them tick, and its not that you need to have a multitude of skills in todays times, you can pickup what you need using the net, just like I learned how to do Electrolysis. But I cant imagine doing this without aids such as an engine hoist to move stuff or a press that I use on the kids cars.

In any case great respect goes out to all the people that have already done this.

MotorCabBotRuberPaint.jpg
 

Nogoingback

Active Member
Active Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2016
Messages
423
Likes
223
No need to apologize for anything. You're doing a huge amount of work and you're doing it well. That lathe will be
a real credit to you when it's finished.
 

Mr Mike

H-M Supporter - Premium Member
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
121
Likes
99
Stuff I completed today..

The Negative mold is complete, there are a few small bubbles in each cell.. I'd give it a C+ should be fine.
I had one disaster pour that I removed and re-poured, The funny thing is, I thought it was going to be the good one.

MoldBoxFullPour.jpg
MoldBoxBadPour.jpg

For any of you that are thinking about trying out or getting a new Harbor Freight Vulcan welder..
I'm a hobby welder and have never done it professionally, I have only welded maybe a couple thousand joints like this in my whole life. This is my first Inverter welder too, Not to mention I'm real rusty since its been about a year since I last welded anything. My first welder was an Lincoln SP-175 plus, It was heavier but smaller then this Vulcan. This Vulcan welder seems to be built well in both fit and finish and I had no issues at all from the first weld to the last so I'd say with some more practice I'll have a real winner here..

Oh and the Vulcan Helmet I bought at the same time is every bit as comfortable as my old Lincoln helmet, Its full view and works great and its cheap at $140.00

This Anchor only had 16 welds which isn't enough to make a good assessment from and its guna take some time to get use to Pre and Post gas, I'm use to welding as soon as I pull the trigger. Now I have to anticipate when the wire will start rolling out to do a one or two second tack, so far so good thou, After I do my fence project I'll have had allot of time on this welder and be able to make a better assessment about it.


I finally got to use the new HF Vulcan welder today to build an anchor for the Gantry..
The welder was set to full auto/synergy mode in this photo, weld looks pretty decent - but I got allot of micro splatter..

FirstVulconWeldsAutoSet.jpg

Next I set the welder to manual mode and increased the gas flow to 30 cfm from 25cfm, Again an ok weld but with much less splatter.

FirstVulconWeldsManual.jpg

I put a prime finish on the Anchor and attached a new Back saving device on the Gantry.
The hoist is from Harbor freight and works like a charm, Its the smallest one they carry and cost 79.00 after discount. My back will be happier.

GantryWithHoist.jpg

I built the simple tee supports for the cabinets to rest on while the Paint Dries, I welded on 1/2" X 3" bolts and drilled out some 3/8" washers so I can mount this on the center beam under the cabinets to keep them off the ground.

SimpleTeePaintStand.jpg

I feel I got plenty done today, I'll be doing some paint prep tomorrow.. And if I'm lucky get something primed up.
 
Last edited:

Mr Mike

H-M Supporter - Premium Member
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
121
Likes
99
I started Paint Prep on the chip pan today...

First I completely scrubbed the " HE Double Hockey Stick " out of top and bottom of the chip pan with Purple Power, My favorite goto cleaner. It easily took 1-1/2 Hrs just to get all the Dirt, Oil & Gunk off.

After the chip pan was rinsed & dry I went to town on the rust with my twisted wire brush to knock off all the rust scale & sticker in the center.

I used a scraper to get the rubber coating off the underside and a metal file to remove nicks and burrs along the edges. Then I used Phosphoric acid and scrubbed the chip pan and let the sun bake it dry.. after about an hour I scrubbed and rinsed it. The chip pan came out excellent.

Edit:
To be honest, Looking back on all the work thats been done with these 3 large items... It may have been beneficial to just build an electrolysis tank for them, Before you can get at the rust you have to do a great job of De-greasing then remove Rust Scale then soak with phosphoric acid and rinse numerous times.. Then when thats all done you have to make sure to check for loose paint and by the time your done theres bound to be many spots where the paint is all but gone, really thin and may even peel down the road, as can be seen in the 3rd photo..

Now that you have the Items all cleaned up and ready to prime ( Yes you did a great job..! ) your still left with less then an ideal surface. You bought enough of the best primer to spray the whole project.. The question is do you was to prime a really clean but decaying surface or a factory fresh substrait.

For people that have a very small or no yard this may be the best and only option, you would be asking for nothing but trouble having a tank in your garage large enough to hold these items, which is fine... This chip pan will be in great shape for years to come if you did a great prep job.

If you have the room - Even if the the hours you spend preping the items vs the hrs to build a tank along with some post cleanup were equal, you would be " or in my case would have been " better off I believe going the tank route.. Because you end up with the ultimate prep job - just the pure substrait.

I doubt ill have to prep Items this size again anytime in the foreseeable future... But if I do, there will be a tank involved.

ChipPanPrep.jpg
ChipPanPrepRust.jpg
ChipPanPrepClean.jpg
ChipPanPrepBottom.jpg

After all the Dirt, Oil, Rust and loose paint was removed I let the chip pan thoroughly dry, I was now ready to prime and paint it, I began assembly of the new HF HVLP pressure pot spray gun so I could knock this puppy out in a single day.

Nope not going to happen - One of the hoses.. specifically the air hose to the gun had a connector different in size from the rest.. which is fine because you wouldn't want to connect a paint hose to the air inlet on the spray gun, except the gun had an adapter mismatch.

I took the sprayer back to HF and showed them, the gal was nice enough and said sometimes these things happen ( I don't know if its just me.. but I've never had any luck with HF spray equipment ) She refunded my money. I didn't get another spray gun because the day was getting long and I would not have enough time to get back and complete the job..

I'll hit a couple of spray shops this week and get a good spray gun and try again next weekend. I'll prep the motor cabinet during the week if time allows.. Maybe ill be ready to paint all three pieces who knows..

LOL I have had a rough time with this whole painting thing from the start... I know I need to use a professional paint on these parts If its to endure another 30 years - I can get away with rattle can paint above the chip pan, but the chip pan and cabinets need to be durable. I intend to win this battle.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
[6]
5 [7]