Glass DRO Scale install questions

Ironken

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Ok, I am getting ready to install the glass scales on my G0695 mill. The scales will be facing with the reading head down/on the bottom. Is it imparative that I install the chip shields? The way I am mounting is not lending itself to the shields being installed.
 
The glass scales are non-magnetic so no worries about attracting swarf, will you be running flood coolant? If so you'll probably be OK as long as you don't point it right at the scales (and if you do you can *carefully* clean the scales and readers).
The scales have double-lip seals to keep the worst out, gravity will help too...

I've installed many of 'em without the covers and had no reports of any problems, I do advise:
1 leave the plastic shim/spacer on the read head on while attaching the scale
2 mount the scale on pads with grubscrews at their corners if the mounting face isn't dead square and parallel to the travel
3 check it's parallel by putting a dti gauge to run along the scale aiming for no deflection (a few thou" at most) in both directions over the full travel - mount the dti to what you'll be attaching the read head to
4 shim the read head while the plastic shim/spacer is still in place for correct clearance

Dave H. (the other one)
 
David, you just answered everything that I needed to know.....thank you!

No coolant here so I should be good.

I want to bounce this off of you....instead of a back bar or pads with grub screws, would machined blocks to match the angle of my knee on my mill to bring the scales plumb work?

Thanks for the help.
 
David, you just answered everything that I needed to know.....thank you!

No coolant here so I should be good.

I want to bounce this off of you....instead of a back bar or pads with grub screws, would machined blocks to match the angle of my knee on my mill to bring the scales plumb work?

Thanks for the help.

Anything you can do to bring the scales in line is, by definition, correct!
 
Machined blocks would work, but it's probably easier to use pads as they're adjustable to the thou" without lots of trial fittings and returning to the mill time and again?

Dave H. (the other one)
 
Machined blocks would work, but it's probably easier to use pads as they're adjustable to the thou" without lots of trial fittings and returning to the mill time and again?

Dave H. (the other one)

Agreed, a backbar and grub screws it is. Already have the materials. Thank you.
 
I recently got and mounted a set of dro scales. I too did not have good mounting for the shield on the X scale.
While I agree that this is not critical or even essential, I was not totally comfortable going without anything to shield the scale. I was able to mount a thin flat piece of steel to act as a shield. Just a thought.
 
I recently got and mounted a set of dro scales. I too did not have good mounting for the shield on the X scale.
While I agree that this is not critical or even essential, I was not totally comfortable going without anything to shield the scale. I was able to mount a thin flat piece of steel to act as a shield. Just a thought.

Thanks Doug for the idea!
 
Well, DRO is installed! Not that big of a deal, just a little tedious. Thanks to everybody for the help. I added a PM power feed for good measure. I have some cable management to take care of.
20170304_150734.jpg 20170304_150807.jpg 20170304_150840.jpg 20170304_150758.jpg
 
This brings up a question of my own. I just added X, Y and Z igage magnetic scales to a Grizzly Go781 mini-mill. No room for covers. never thought of the swarf. What was I not thinking? Anyone else done this? Did they decimate themselves? Mostly I am using brass or aluminum for clock parts but occasionally do steel.
 
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