Gavin's PM 1340GT

[ET1USN]

Hello. I received my PM 1340GT last week and am just starting to set it up.

I have been a reader of this forum for several years and am grateful for all the knowledge that is shared.

O ordered my lathe as a 3 phase so I could add a VFD and use some added features.

My lathe was a bit beat up: scratched paint and some small dents, which I sanded down, primed and painted. I am hoping the paint works as it has been weakened so much due to EPA demands.

I have made a bracket to support a larger electric box and removed the stock one. I have the VFD, 24VDC power supply, RF noise filter, RPM gauge and an hour meter to keep track of maintenance intervals mounted in/on the box.
I will start on wiring and crimping ferrules tomorrow.
This is a big upgrade for me and I am excited to get it up and going.

 

[B2]

Hi @ET1USN

and an hour meter to keep track of maintenance intervals mounted in/on the box.

I like the hour meter concept. Does it clock only when the spindle is turning or does it just run off of the power switch? Also, I like your conversion enclosure location... easy to see. Will you be adding other VFD features such as jog, e-brake, proximity sensor etc? If you have not seen it you might want to see my solid state approach to the conversion. It incorporates many VFD features and it significantly reduces the required enclosure space by getting rid of the big relays etc.

VFD conversion using solid state electronic components.

Since I posted it I have designed a pcb for the electronics and have supplied one to @bdstark. The circuit boards are unbelievably inexpensive! So I have designed a couple of versions since that time. I believe Brian's has his conversion mostly finished. However, I don't think he has posted to much of it yet. @ptrotter initially got me started making pcbs as he was building my circuits. He has made some modifications to my basic circuits and has done multiple pcb design and has even had a SMT version made. Paul is currently incorporating an ESL with his PM1340GT and so is also going to the solid state VFD control conversion. Since he has the same machine as yours you might want to take a look at his posting.

I have been working on the Clough42 ELS on my PM-1340GT lathe and decided that if I am going to be using solid state electronics for the lead screw, than I might as well build solid state controls for the spindle. After all the VFD is a solid state device itself. Here is what I have so far:

I noted that Brian also posted in this later thread about his conversion. Brian added a spindle chuck key interlock which is a nice idea for us forgetful folks ..... to prevent startup with the key still in the chuck!

Good luck with your build.
Dave L.

 

[ET1USN]

I will have the Jog joystick, Coolant on with spindle, off & continuous, Variable frequency (speed), the proximity on the stop with a bypass momentary button and an Emergency stop.

I have read a lot about the oil for the threading gears and the bearing tubes being clogged. I plan on checking the lines to bearings and adding the “one shot” lube that will go to a small manifold then 4mm coper tubes to each lube point.

I want this up and running!
I sold my Atlas 12x36 #3996 after I rebuilt it over the winter. This is the heavier model with thicker ways, larger leadscrew & bearings.

 

[ET1USN]

B2 The hour meter will be on with the machine. I am in the habit of shutting down if I am not using it. How do you like Clough42's ELS? I watched him build the first one and am suprized it is not standard on lathes by now. I would like to to that later.
I have the lathe a mill and a Sheldon #0 horizontal mill, a MIG welder, stick welder and table saw that all want 240v power, so I turn equipmint on when using it and off when done.

 

[B2]

The picture of the Atlas looks great! Probably a very nice machine someone got!

I do not have an ELS. @ptrotter is the one who was rebuilding his VFD conversion, while also building an ELS, for his 1340GT. I agree with you it would be nice if ELS was standard on some models. Only recently have they started to add variable speed on some of the lathe models and on some they are using a VFD. However, they do not seem to have all of the control features and I am not for sure why. I suppose, these electronics are something that some folks cannot deal with and for them the older mechanical systems are best. Probably easier to understand and certainly easier understand how to repair.

For me I sometimes have my lathe powered up, but not running for much longer than it takes me to make a part. I do not see why those minutes would contribute to when I need to change the oil etc. as nothing is turning.

By the way, below is a link to a spread sheet that I wrote which will calculate every possible thread value for your lathe (and many others) by considering all of the possible arrangements of the external gears, transpose gears, and gear box settings. There are so many possible values that are not discussed in the manuals or the threading plates on the lathes... you can make almost anything with some lathe set gears. It works by you inputting the external gears that you have and then via a macro calculates all possible combinations and generates a table. (For my machine and its many external gears that are available that turns out to be thousands of possible values.) Other macros allow you to search the table for specific TPI values or approximations to them or for all possible standard values. Imperial or metric. So the only thing that an ELS really buys you is the ability to not to have to change external gears around. Click on the URL below for the latest spread sheet version.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/attachments/tpi_manylathesrev1-nb06_2023-zipped-zip.465427/

The thread is provided below.

Re: Improved Version: TPI, Feeds, X-Feeds: Generalized Lathe TPI Excel file: "TPI_ManyLathesRev1 N502_1630"

Dave L.

PS. To bad you are so far away. I have an old SouthBend 10 that is nice, but needs some TLC in certain areas. One of the things I really like about it is the Norton gear box, which I think you have on your 1340GT.

 

[davidpbest]

Good luck with your build. I have to say that having a joy-stick jog and proximity stop on the carriage stop are two of the best parts of conversion to a VFD-based system. Personally I love the concept of the ELS, but the Clough42 implementation looks like toy to me. If I were doing such a conversion I would be more attracted to a more industrial type display and system like this one: https://www.rocketronics.de/en/els/

Changing the oil on this machine is a nasty experience. You might consider installing a drain system like I have done. And there are several other improvement suggestions that I've posted about here:

Metal Working Related - Lathe

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www.flickr.com

 

[ET1USN]

Thanks David for the info.

lighting- my bad eyes need lots of light. last fall I bought these fixtures and some extra bulbs for refit on amazon. "Sunco 4 Pack 50W 7 Inch LED Commercial Industrial Warehouse Workshop Prisma Wraparound Light, 6500 Lumens, 3 CCT 4000K Cool White/5000K Daylight/6000K Daylight Deluxe, Non-Dimmable, AC120-277V - ETL". They are very bright! and making everything look much more detailed. I installed 2 end to end in the center of a bay at 12' high then two on each side of the next bay for 4 lights, repeat. It really helped my bad eyes and completely changed my shop.
Now I am looking at the light that came with my lathe and wanted something brighter. I was at our local plumbing supply last week and saw a LED light. It is from Nebo-High Bright 6000 extremely bright utility light. it screws into a bulb socket and has 3 LED panels-and they are BRIGHT. I bought one got it home and took it apart. It is well made, the panels are aluminum. Any brighter and you could not look at it. I will incorparate it into the lathe back splash and evenly space the 3 panels. I will take pictures as I go.
I also plan to cut some dovetail pieces of HMMW to fit the BXA tool holders and make a rack out of 80/20 aluminum extrusion to go on the top of the back splash and a second piece to hold the chuck key and commonly used tools. My fluid cans will fit in the smaller base cabinet. I have 2 eagle 55 cans and several Goldenrod oiler cans.

 

[Skippy]

Be sure to pop the lid off the gearbox and check it out, because my brand new 1340 GT was full of metal shavings.

 

[mksj]

You may be better off using a light bar under the back splash lip that faces down and slightly forward along with an overhead arm LED light. This minimizes the shadows and back lights the length of the machine. I have that on my current lathe and also on my 1340GT. I also find around 4000K lighting much easier on the eyes vs. the white blue 6000-7000K. You can get the LED light bars in 12V and 24V, these are 24VDC. On larger lathes I suggest looking a outdoor wall wash or high output display LED's light bars. The PM-1340GT I used a thinner LED light bay and made pivots to adjust the angle, so there is minimal glare in ones eyes. My overhead lighting was limited due to location of the lathes and the overhead garage door.

Example of a 39" 12V (1A) 1300 Lumen light bar. Mount the brackets to a swivel to adjust the angle, there are various versions.

39” Linkable LED Light Bar Fixture - Low Profile Surface Mount - 500 lm/ft - 4000K

The linkable corner mount LED light bar fixture features a plug-and-play design that allows up to 7 feet of fixtures to be linked.The slim form factor and compact design provide a clean look and easy installation in cramped spaces. Delivers 500 lumens per foot in a 120° beam for use under...

www.superbrightleds.com

24VDC

39 inch Waterproof LED Light Bar - 4000K

This versatile light bar is designed for indoor and outdoor use. The compact design can fit discreetly in narrow spaces while producing a wide beam of light. The low voltage is ideal for cabinet lighting or deck and patio lighting. IP67 rating protects against weather conditions. Use for...

www.superbrightleds.com