- Joined
- Apr 12, 2011
- Messages
- 3,472
How do you do that? I have a Phase II and would like to know how that works. Pic would be a great help.
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G0704 - Rotary Table
- Thread starter tkollen
- Start date
How do you do that? I have a Phase II and would like to know how that works. Pic would be a great help.
I did finally decide to get a 6" Vertex rotary table for my G0704. I tested several tables before my decision, Vertex 6" and 8" and a 6" Phase II. I liked the extra clamping area on the 8" table but the weight turned me off since it is twice as heavy compared to a 6" table. When choosing between Vertex and Phase II I preferred the Vertex 6" with its somewhat smaller foot print and the quality that seemed to be a notch better than the Phase II. In fact the 8" Vertex (my second choice) doesn't have very much larger foot print than the 6" Phase II. Horizontally mounted the Vertex 8" RT overhang over the milling table is minimal but vertically mounted I got more limited Y-axis travel.
I wanted to maximize the capacity of my 6" Vertex so rather than mounting a 4" or 5" chuck to the RT with a back plate (which is typical) I bought two 6" chucks, one 3-jaw self centered and one 4-jaw chuck). I found a used Asian made 6" 4-jaw chuck on eBay with 4 mounting holes and quickly realized that all Asian made 6" chucks aren't 6" at all but 6.3". With a slight overhang over the RT the chuck barely misses the lock levers on the RT. Since the gap is only 2-3 mm I had to shorten the t-slot nuts, otherwise they would protrude outside the t-slot and hit the lock levers.
I couldn't find a 6" 3-jaw chuck with 4 mounting holes anywhere. I think there is a good reason for this, with 4 evenly spaced mounting holes, two of the holes come very close to 2 of the jaws. This can't be done on many chucks since the jaws are too wide. I finally found a 6" Atlas-Craftsman lathe chuck (a true 6" chuck) on eBay with enough narrow jaws that allowed me to space and drill 4 5/16" mounting holes in the periphery (and 3 mm from the internal scroll). After flattening the back of the chuck it fits perfect on my RT.
I now have the best of both worlds, a smaller 6" rotary table combined with 6" chuck capacity (which is typical for an 8" rotary table) and I don't need back plates.
I wanted to maximize the capacity of my 6" Vertex so rather than mounting a 4" or 5" chuck to the RT with a back plate (which is typical) I bought two 6" chucks, one 3-jaw self centered and one 4-jaw chuck). I found a used Asian made 6" 4-jaw chuck on eBay with 4 mounting holes and quickly realized that all Asian made 6" chucks aren't 6" at all but 6.3". With a slight overhang over the RT the chuck barely misses the lock levers on the RT. Since the gap is only 2-3 mm I had to shorten the t-slot nuts, otherwise they would protrude outside the t-slot and hit the lock levers.
I couldn't find a 6" 3-jaw chuck with 4 mounting holes anywhere. I think there is a good reason for this, with 4 evenly spaced mounting holes, two of the holes come very close to 2 of the jaws. This can't be done on many chucks since the jaws are too wide. I finally found a 6" Atlas-Craftsman lathe chuck (a true 6" chuck) on eBay with enough narrow jaws that allowed me to space and drill 4 5/16" mounting holes in the periphery (and 3 mm from the internal scroll). After flattening the back of the chuck it fits perfect on my RT.
I now have the best of both worlds, a smaller 6" rotary table combined with 6" chuck capacity (which is typical for an 8" rotary table) and I don't need back plates.
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2013
- Messages
- 2,113
Does this cover the model that you have?
Tom
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2011
- Messages
- 3,472
Thanks Tom,
I have since graduated from the Phase II rotary table school with an investment in their index plates.