G0602 Compound Problems. Thoughts, Ideas?

oh you defiantly need to cut off any tang that might be on an arbor . matter of fact except for dead centers i have had to cut every arbor off right right before the start of the taper to get the full usable quill travel .
having your tail stock a little high shouldn't be an issue even if its .004 -.005 to high heck someone who knows more then me might even allow for it being higher then that .
i think .001-002 to high is a common practice to allow for wear .

to my thinking it is much more important that it lines up on the same axis without any nod
Bocephus. Thanks for your comments. I thought about grinding off the tang - the Grizzly tech told me not to bother. The manual, which supposedly applies to 602's on pg. 32, Fig. 35, actually depicts an arbor with a tang being inserted in the quill.

I'll grind it off tommorrow!

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Oh, BTW Bocephus, the height differential was on the order of 1/4". Way off-axis. Bad bull.

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I cut the tangs and/or shortened the tangs as well. You can leave the tangs on but they will decrease the useful travel of the tailstock quill. I trim them so they eject at about .05" short of full retraction.
 
I cut the tangs and/or shortened the tangs as well. You can leave the tangs on but they will decrease the useful travel of the tailstock quill. I trim them so they eject at about .05" short of full retraction.
Unfortunately, RJ, the arbor (which does have a tang, will not seat or lock-up at all. So....drilling without the chuck twisting around like crazy is the result. I use this lathe primarily to turn blocks of briar wood that I shape into tobacco pipes. I usually drill the tobacco chamber with a 3/4" modified Silver & Deming bit. You can imagine what fun it is to drill while holding the chuck in place by hand.

Thanks RJ.....Squier

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You might find it's the saddle/apron that's not as tight as you want. I kept blaming the cross slide on my G8688 but I found it was the saddle. Push down as hard as you can on the saddle and take a cut and see if it doesn't stop. The last thing I had to do to fix everything was switch over to carbide inserts, not the carbide brazed soft steel tools. The brazed worked great for Al but made noises of horror with steel unless it's an acute pointed tool.
If still no go, you might want to consider brass gibs or changing out your set screws to use something like cupped set screws and balls from a bearing to seat your gibs. Maybe use some heavy thread locker too. Make sure you're also holding the set screw with the allen key as you tighten the lock nut with box wrench since a socket will ensure you over tighten your set screws.
 
Good morning Entity. Thanks for your comment!

I will certainly check out the saddle. I'm thinking the set screws now on the lathe are crap. Replacement, as you and others have suggested should likely be replaced with better ones. Brass gins are an interesting idea too.

I use this little lathe, primarily, to turn briar wood blocks for tobacco pipes rather than turning metal. I have a much bigger, better lathe for that. Still, I do turn AI from time to time and I have threaded stainless rod stock a time or two. I found regular, old homemade HSS to be pretty good, carbide inserts very good, and brazed carbide to be not so good, but okay for AI. The best finish I've had for AI has been HSS. Carbide inserts seem to be the best overall performer. Slow speeds when threading can sometimes be a challenge for carbide inserts, but they're best overall.

Thanks again for your suggestions! With any luck at all will be able 2 work on the machine today sometime. I'll be posting the results here. Think good thoughts for me. Haha!


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Lash in the cross slide is the amount of movement in the feed dial before you see movement of the cross slide when you reverse direction. The saddle position is fixed by the v groove riding on the lathe way. It cannot move forward or back from that position. It is possible that it could be lifting if the slide block (P/N 917) is loose but it shouldn't have a large effect on lash, if any. Likewise, cross slide gib adjustment, will not materially affect lash if loose. Over-tightening the gib will affect lash by requiring more effort to move the cross slide though. This causes torquing of the lead screw and increased pressure on the thrust bearing which will be seen as lost motion or lash.

You can adjust the thrust bearing preload by moving the cross slide to the rear of the lathe so the lead screw is freed from the nut. Any resistance to rotation of the crank will now be due solely to the thrust bearing preload. Tighten up the preload until you start to feel increased resistance and back it off slightly from there. This should be close to your optimum adjustment. Reengage the cross feed nut by pulling the cross slide towards you as you rotate the crank. If you have difficulty moving the slide, you may have to loosen the gib. Adjust the cross feed nut set screw for a minimum movement of the crank before you feel resistance as you rock the crank back and forth. Grizzly recommends not trying to reduce the lash below .001" as a tighter adjustment increases wear on the components.

Note that having lash in the cross slide is not a terrible thing. Lots of older lathes have significant amounts of lash due to wear of the lead screw or nut and still are capable of doing precision work. If the lash is too great and the gibs are loose, it can contribute to chatter though.

To adjust the gib, I back off all the adjustments so the gib is free. With the cross slide in about the middle of travel, I tighten the center set screw until resistance to movement is observed and back it off slightly ( about 10º). Holding the screw in that position with an Allen wrench, I lock the jam nut. Then I bring the cross slide forward and adjust the rear set screw and finally, I move the cross slide to the rear and adjust the front set screw. Properly adjusted, the cross slide should move freely but there should be no discernible movement of the cross slide if you try to move it from side to side.

I use a similar procedure to adjust the lash and play on the compound.
 
Unfortunately, RJ, the arbor (which does have a tang, will not seat or lock-up at all.
Probably a silly question: did you extend the quill about an 1" before seating the arbor? The machine is designed to eject the MT arbor when you turn the quill back to 0", so it will never allow the arbor to seat until you extend the quill a bit. Not unique to this lathe, many lathes are designed like that.

People cut the tang off the arbor to get the last inch of travel, and defeat the "self ejecting" feature.
 
I am intrigued by your tailstock issue. If you extend the tailstock quill about 2", are you still unable to get a Morse taper shank to lock? It would seem strange to have an improperly machined socket as they are usually finished with a reamer. If you can lock a shank in the socket at 2" extension but it comes loose before you fully retract the quill, the lead screw is pushing the taper out. This is a desirable feature as there is no other practical way to remove a seated shank.

My MT3 shanks are cut to a length of 2.8" which will eject them are about .05" before full retraction of the quill. Prior to cutting the tanged shack on the drill chucks would eject at more than 1". The two MT3 dead centers that came with the lathe eject at about 5/8" but since, I am not concerned with maximizing the available travel when using the center, I left them as-is.

If you continue to have issues, there is a work-around. I have a quick change tool post which come with a 3/4" boring bar tool holder and a drill chuck with a 3/4" shank. It is more of a PITA to set it up as you have to get the cross slide centered, the height correct, and the angle correct but it is used preferably by others to drill on the lathe because it permits using the power feed to advance the drill. Because of all the adjustments, it is also possible to accurately center the chuck on the spindle axis, allowing more precise holes to be drilled.
 
Lash in the cross slide is the amount of movement in the feed dial before you see movement of the cross slide when you reverse direction. The saddle position is fixed by the v groove riding on the lathe way. It cannot move forward or back from that position. It is possible that it could be lifting if the slide block (P/N 917) is loose but it shouldn't have a large effect on lash, if any. Likewise, cross slide gib adjustment, will not materially affect lash if loose. Over-tightening the gib will affect lash by requiring more effort to move the cross slide though. This causes torquing of the lead screw and increased pressure on the thrust bearing which will be seen as lost motion or lash.

You can adjust the thrust bearing preload by moving the cross slide to the rear of the lathe so the lead screw is freed from the nut. Any resistance to rotation of the crank will now be due solely to the thrust bearing preload. Tighten up the preload until you start to feel increased resistance and back it off slightly from there. This should be close to your optimum adjustment. Reengage the cross feed nut by pulling the cross slide towards you as you rotate the crank. If you have difficulty moving the slide, you may have to loosen the gib. Adjust the cross feed nut set screw for a minimum movement of the crank before you feel resistance as you rock the crank back and forth. Grizzly recommends not trying to reduce the lash below .001" as a tighter adjustment increases wear on the components.

Note that having lash in the cross slide is not a terrible thing. Lots of older lathes have significant amounts of lash due to wear of the lead screw or nut and still are capable of doing precision work. If the lash is too great and the gibs are loose, it can contribute to chatter though.

To adjust the gib, I back off all the adjustments so the gib is free. With the cross slide in about the middle of travel, I tighten the center set screw until resistance to movement is observed and back it off slightly ( about 10º). Holding the screw in that position with an Allen wrench, I lock the jam nut. Then I bring the cross slide forward and adjust the rear set screw and finally, I move the cross slide to the rear and adjust the front set screw. Properly adjusted, the cross slide should move freely but there should be no discernible movement of the cross slide if you try to move it from side to side.

I use a similar procedure to adjust the lash and play on the compound.
Got the compound slide off and found the gib to have really big burrs on both ends. Weird, but true. So I fixed that issue. Lead screw looked okay, so I continued. Then I found the big culprit! The blind, threaded hole into which the leadscrew turns is mangled up pretty bad. That is, the internal threads are trashed. I'm referring here to the hole in the swivel base. Called Grizzly and have a new one and a new leadscrew for good measure, on the way via UPS.

Hopefully, this will resolve the problem. Next, I'll take up the lash problem on the cross slide and return to the tailstock issue. THANK YOU ALL for your help!

So, I'm forging ahead. Will post results as I go along.

Squier

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