First Post, First Machine.

Took the motor out this morning..... Boy, wasn't really expecting this, but it doesn't surprise me either. Thinking about changing gears with the "off the shelf" motor. Going to try to get one with a C flange (smaller). Shaft size on a 3hp is 1 1/8". This shaft is turned down to 1" where the gear mounts on. It was suggested that the quickest, easiest and fastest way to get that on there in a way that's even close to being nice, I will have to get the shop next door to make me a new shaft specific to this setup. The other problem is, the drive end bearing was in a holder, mounted into that casting. I'd like to have the shaft supported right next to the gear as it was originally. This might be kinda redneck, but I'm gonna see if the NDE bearing cup out of the old motor might fit in that hole. Then I can make a plate that the C flange can bolt to, and button it up.

As I know you guys like em, pictures!!

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One question for you guys. The original motor is 1800rpm. If I'm ordering a motor in, is there any reason NOT to go with 3600rpm? It will be on a VFD, so speed control is no issue. Also transmission has I believe 6 speeds. I recall in the literature that I've found, that these were available from factory with 3600rpm motors.
 
Hi Rudy,

It's a little hard to tell from here, but would that mounting plate separate from the old motor?
To me that hub looks like it might hold a short stub shaft (to adapt the motor to the 1 inch gear shaft).
Have you got any side shots of the motor and plate?

-brino
 
Will get a picture for you tomorrow. The drive end end bell is an OEM specific cast part. It's one peice as far as I can tell. I had thoughts of sawing the "bell" part off of it and keeping the "plate" part with the bearing holder. I have in mind that it's gonna be a huge PITA to first, cut it with any semblance of accuracy. Then I have no tools to make it flat for mounting a motor. Remember, this is my first metalworking tool other than a drill press or three. I'm better equipped for wood. The horizontal bandsaw still sits where it came off the truck after picking it up, in all its rusty and dirty glory, with no blade. I'd rather not fork out a fortune to a machine shop to do all this stuff, but I realize that I can't get away from it completely either.
 
Picture of side view of motor drive end:

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I also tried putting the non drive end bearing cup in the hole in the casting... it fits!!! And a quick measure told me that it's the same depth as the one on the drive end too!! There may be an easy way to do this yet!!

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Have you looked at pump motors?

Water well pump motor may be an option as they may have a flat interface.

A good pump shop could modify to fit but $$$$

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 
We can get pump motors as well. Something this size wouldn't be cost effective. Won't be hard to mount up a C flange, as I've already got the plan in my head for that. I think the route to take will be to get a new motor and get a new shaft made for the motor. Just talking to our motor sales guy about best option right now.
 
Hmmmmm...... Funny story. I will now have an A2-6 10 1/2" diameter chuck mounting plate for sale. :headache: I forgot that I had measured the spindle nose before and found that it is in fact an A2-5. So, with it not being worth it to ship it back because of cost of shipping, I'll be trying to sell it here in Canuckistan to some poor soul who needs it. Hopefully before SWMBO finds out I'm a blundering idiot. I've also now ordered an A2-5 mounting plate. Measure thrice, buy twice!!
 
You have a great machine , there made to work and work forever. With a little maintenance it will be working long after you . Not bad to learn on takes a bit of thinking to get your operations in order. Sometimes working backwards from your print is the best way. I'd love to have one but no room . Ill take a Hardinage tho in a heartbeat if I have the money. Shoot I'd go in debt , I'd mount it on wheels tho with levelers . Good luck with her she will work quicker then a CNC in some circumstances. Your lathe will also give you a great workout. I know believe me I ran many of them , some with Hugh chucks and bores. Glad you got a good one , little bit of work and she'll be making chips . No problem parting with turret LATHES , no flex in them at all.
 
A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.
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I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.
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Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
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