Fincor 2301 dc power supply

Phil you'll have to do some legwork to get those working. You'll have to unsolder and test all the semiconductors (I can give you instructions) and
trace out the circuit back at least partway from the terminal block so you know for sure how to connect it.
I looked online and couldn't find a schematic for it either, it's probably one of the first models they made.
Mark S.
 
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For testing you'll need a 9 to 12 volt DC "wall-wart" power supply and a small 12 volt light bulb (like an automotive turn signal bulb),
look around the house and see if you can scrounge those up, meanwhile I'll draw something up.
Mark
 
If these pictures don't show what you need let me know..the red wire to right of terminal 4 is hooked to same then goes through off-on circuit breaker then on to run stop toggle switch.wouldn't that be 1 of the 115 v lines?..thanks very much..Phil

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Phil: yes terminal 4 must be the 115 v hot line, I'm guessing 3 is the 115 v neutral. 1 and 2 might be motor. Try it like that and see if it works. Wear eye protection.
Mark S.
 
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Used a 2 prong extension cord put the big blade wire on terminal 4..smaller prong on 3.2.1 popped breaker each time..do I have hot and neutral backwards.using a power strip
 
OK hate to be the bearer of bad news but if you have applied 110 to the DC output of the unit which it sounds like you have, it's toast.
Now for future reference on something like this. The AC side of most stuff is going to go through the power switch and the smaller of the two fuses if there are multiple fuses. If there is only one fuse it will be connected to the AC side. So with a voltmeter, connect one lead of the volt meter to either leg of the switch and the other to the terminals. Do this with the switch turned on. One terminal will be a short or 0 ohms. The other will be a very low resistance. The short is the HOT AC line in and the low ohm one will be the neutral AC line.

IF it's immediately blowing a 15 amp breaker as soon as you put power to it, it's shorted.
Now with the size of that transformer, even having the output of that transformer shorted it would not draw 15 amps from the line. For a 120 to 12 volt transformer to draw 15 amps, the output CURRENT would be 80 or 90 amps and that little transformer is no where near rated to handle that amount of power.

The little pictures on here frankly suck. I can't make heads or tails of how things are laid out on the board at all. I need a good sized top and bottom shot of the board with it turned directly over so that the bottom is the bottom in both shots. Parts side and solder side.
If I had that I would be able to direct you a bit better. But then again, this is what I do for a living.
 
If these pictures are not what you need.let me know. Thanks Phil

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The green looking stain on solder side is from a foam pad between board and circuit breaker
 
Phil can you read the numbers on this device and can you give us a real close up shot of it?
It looks like there is no insulating washer there-might be an iso-tab
Mark
ps the wide blade is the neutral, the narrow one is the hot on a 115 v plug
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image.jpeg image.jpeg Eagle eye mark..how right you are.2 of the 3 I have in the house are missing insulating tabs..on those 2 the pot housing is grounded to the cover but not the terminals. Numbers are D62402-G1..
 
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