Elgin Cataract Style Lathe Questions

[mrbacklash]

Not sure if this is the right forum so if it is not please move it. I bought an Elgin Tool lathe at an auction Friday for $90 and here it is.




From what I have read Elgin was formed by former Hardinge employees around the 20's, hence the similarities. It is in pretty good shape cleaned the compound up with some fine steel wool and oil and cleaned it out. I have a few questions about it:
Since the compound is not mounted to the bed like most lathes, and secured by a t bolt what is the best way to ensure that it is perpendicular to the bed?

It currently has a craftsman tool holder that is 5/16"x5/8" and takes 3/16" tools, if I picked up a larger one that would take 1/4" tools which are readily available and had it milled down to fit the post would there be any issues with doing that? The motor is a 1/2 hp if that matters.

On the tail stock, there is a dead center in there now but there does not appear to be a normal taper as I have read is typical with the cataract style lathes. If I were to ream it out to a MT-1 would there be any issues with doing that the part that extends from the tail stock is around 1" OD I think.

I plan on using it to build small parts for John Deere garden tractors I restore. Thanks for any info.

 

[wa5cab]

I wouldn't expect there to be any problems with using 1/4" square tools on the machine.

If the center hole in the tailstock ram isn't already too large for #1 Morse Taper, I don't see any problems that converting it to 1MT would have except first make sure that the ram feed screw will stick into the taper area before the ram is fully retracted so that it will function as an extractor. Else every time that you need to change what you have in the tailstock you will have to remove the ram from the tailstock and use a long pin punch to get whatever is in there out.

 

[mrbacklash]

Thanks for the information, would a set like this and a tap handle work?

 

[brino]

first make sure that the ram feed screw will stick into the taper area before the ram is fully retracted so that it will function as an extractor. Else every time that you need to change what you have in the tailstock you will have to remove the ram from the tailstock and use a long pin punch to get whatever is in there out.

another thought for tailstock taper extraction: you could mill a slot thru the barrel of the ram, and then use a tapered wedge in this "window" to push out the tailstock taper. Just like on a drill press spindle. Of course, be sure that such a slot would not adversely weaken the ram.

-brino

 

[wa5cab]

mrbacklash,

If you mean would it be alright to hold the taper reamer with a tap handle (tap wrench), no. You would first want to properly center the tailstock front-to-back, and then hold the taper reamer in the headstock spindle. If you meant something else, please explain.

 

[chips&more]

The easiest way to align the cross slide is to set it all up and make a few test cuts in the round. Note any taper in your diameter and if you have any then adjust accordingly. After you have set it up to cut a straight diameter the cross is now also aligned perpendicular to the bed. And I would ask you to double check what kind of taper you have in the tail stock before any reaming…Good Luck, Dave.

 

[mrbacklash]

What would the best way to figure out what kind of taper it has?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[wa5cab]

The most common taper on vintage tailstocks is Morse. I would start by first proving that it either is or isn't one of those. Find a table of MT dimensions. Machinery's Handbook has it, but there are many other sources. Eject whatever that is in the tailstock ram. Generally, a taper table will state two diameters and the distance between them. Find on the male taper you just removed the larger diameter. If it isn't near the large end, try another taper number. Mark the location of the large diameter that is near but not off of the large end. Measure the diameter at the specified distance toward the small end. If it seems to match, that's probably your taper. Obtain a commercial dead center, mandrel or cutter holder in that taper and check it for fit. If it doesn't seem to fit, try a different table. Another taper that was once available in the spindles of small mills was B&S (Brown & Sharpe). The Clausing 8525 had a #7 B&S. I don't know of a lathe tailstock with B&S taper but there could have been.

In any case, I would try to ID what you have before trying to change it.

 

[mattthemuppet2]

the "carriage" should be keyed to the bed, so that the cross slide (bottom bit) is always perpendicular to the bed. The compound (top bit) is a little fiddlier if you can adjust it (I think you can by your pictures), but the best way I found was a rod between the headstock and tailstock with an indicator in the tool holder. Adjust the angle so that the indicator doesn't move from one end of the travel to another then cinch the bolts down.

 

[MrFixIt]

Nice buy, congrats!