Electrolysis, and cast iron.

I use a 40gal trash can, I've done this for several years. I have used battery chargers and burned up a few, now I use a car battery and just charge the battery with the charger. the secret is in the amount of washing soda per 5 gal. The concentration of the electrolyte (soda to water ) is what controls how much current it will draw. I've learned the hard way, more soda is not always better. Its been a while since I did mine but I think about 1/2 cup per 5 gal is what I used, not certain though.
The trash cans are relatively cheap and come with a lid.
I think it works better on cast than on steel. Just my .02 cents.

Tom
 
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i have used electrolytic rust removal lots of times, it really works well
perhaps you may consider using Carbon Anodes, the parts will easily clean with a toothbrush or the like.
when using a iron anode, there is sometimes a need for considerable scrubbing off of the resulting magnetite left from the electrolytic process

i have a detailed write up of the process in the following thread ,
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/thre...111b-105014-iqr-rebuild-by-ulma-doctor.14399/

i apologize in advance for the lengthy read, but it does contain some useful information in pertinence to your query.

i wish you the best of luck!
 
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Ww have quite an elaborate setup that works well.

It is version 2...3 will be of a fiberglass tank for better fit.

Current we are using a 40 gallon trash can with a ball valve installed for draining.

We have 3 12 volt batteries with hf float chargers on each making a 36 volt battery.

We also have a 12 volt power supply made from a junked battery charger but used a bridge rectifier for output.

Added a shunt to measure current and a timer to control the contactor for the 36 volt battery.

12 volt supply is just switch control.

Both the 36 and 12 volt supplies can be connected in parallel as the bridge blocks high voltage from 12 volt supply.

Buss bars added for multiple connections.

We use drain cleaner lye as it goes after everything organic so it gets things clean and gets under the paint.

We wind up the timer it is 15 minutes and that usually gets things started then the 12 volts simmers it.

Works great for all ferrous materials cast or sheet.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 
Thanks all, I've done steel before, but was getting conflicting results for cast iron.
My understanding is brass is ok, but what about parts like the feed screw on the table?
Thanks
 
brino said:
Wow! That is a beautiful old machine!

Any idea the date it was made?
What scale is that? What size is the table?

I'd love to see some more pictures!
I'll have to go search that name too.

Just Wow!
-brino

EDIT: I found some good reading here:
http://www.lathes.co.uk/pallas/
Click to expand...

I can't find much information about the Pallas mill, apart from on www.lathes
It's about 4'6" high, and the table is 30" long.
My mill has a single phase 3HP motor, not 1 HP motor as they show on www.lathes, I'll probably fit a 3 phase motor, and run it from the VFD inverter that I use for my Colchester lathe, so speed control/FED&REV will be a doddle.
 
Ulma Doctor said:
i have used electrolytic rust removal lots of times, it really works well
perhaps you may consider using Carbon Anodes, the parts will easily clean with a toothbrush or the like.
when using a iron anode, there is sometimes a need for considerable scrubbing off of the resulting magnetite left from the electrolytic process

i have a detailed write up of the process in the following thread ,
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/thre...111b-105014-iqr-rebuild-by-ulma-doctor.14399/

i apologize in advance for the lengthy read, but it does contain some useful information in pertinence to your query.

i wish you the best of luck!
Click to expand...
 
"a detailed write up" Very impressive right up, I'll take some photo's when I get started
Cheers
 
Nice (and rare) mill, do you have the base for it? Is the flat belt still hanging in there?
Mark S.
 
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