"Easy Knurling" by Conrad Hoffman

HMF

Site Founder
Administrator
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
7,223
http://www.conradhoffman.com/knurling.htm

Conrad's Easy Knurling Method

Blank diameter is critical to quality knurling. The wrong blank diameter can cause the knurl(s) to double track, giving a pattern finer than the knurl was designed to produce, one that's generally unsatisfactory. To make your knurling come out properly with no double tracking you need to select the blank diameter of your stock to match the pitch of the knurl. This is very similar to having two gears of the same diametrical pitch that fit together. Every time you add a tooth the diameter increases by a discrete amount. There are no in-between diameters that work correctly. The same is true of knurls and the blank to be knurled, though fortunately knurls do tolerate a certain amount of error before problems occur.

There is a modern standard for knurls that makes the blank diameter easy to determine, but not all knurls are made to that standard. Standardized knurls work correctly on stock diameters in 1/32" increments or some similar number, depending on pitch. The problem is that we often have knurls of unknown origin and specification. I bought my Eagle Rock scissors knurling tool many years ago and had no idea what the pitch of the knurls was. I also collect used and antique knurls. Knurling was a hit or miss proposition; sometimes it came out great and other times it would double or triple track no matter what I did.

Machinery's Handbook has knurling formulas, though somewhat confusing directions on how to apply them. Information is also available on other web sites and from manufacturers, but you still need to start with information about your knurls. The whole thing is a headache without straightforward instructions. Here's a simple method to determine what you've got and how to select the correct blank diameter.

Grab one of your knurls and a pin to fit it. Clean the knurl. Ink the knurl on a stamp pad and roll it down a piece of paper. If you don't have a stamp pad, ink up a piece of paper with that tube of Hi-Spot Blue you forgot you had and use that. Lacking that, just make an impression on the paper by pressing down a little harder. Shade it with a pencil to make it more visible.

Now, count a good number of lines, maybe 50-100. It helps to mark every fifth one with a pencil and count the groups. Measure the distance with verniers. In my case I counted 75 lines and measured 3.535 inches. Divide to get the spacing: 3.535 / 75 = 0.0471" Make this measurement and record the number for each knurl you own.

2.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 1.jpg
    1.jpg
    43.7 KB · Views: 350
Last edited by a moderator:
Re: "Easy Knurling" by Conrad Hoffman

All,

While searching for a replacement knurling wheel, I came across a 4-part video of knurling and thought I'd pass it along. The presenter describes and demonstrates the method that Nelson posted earlier. The fellow in the video welcomed folks to propagate the information; thus, I created an Excel spreadsheet which does the calculations. The sheet defaults to the 3 standard knurl pitches and the first hundred or so resulting diameters. If you need a larger diameter, change the value of "N" from 0 to some bigger number. You can also change the pitch values and the tables will be re-calculated.

The spreadsheet is locked (with no password so you're free to modify it) to prevent accidental change to any formula macros. Only 4 fields can be changed by you if you keep the sheet locked.

... And since I'm not terribly artistic, you'll have to take the page layout as is or, modify it yourself.

Here's the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4jIzRGAhvM&feature=channel&list=UL



Have Fun...

Ray
 
Re: "Easy Knurling" by Conrad Hoffman

All,

While searching for a replacement knurling wheel, I came across a 4-part video of knurling and thought I'd pass it along. The presenter describes and demonstrates the method that Nelson posted earlier. The fellow in the video welcomed folks to propagate the information; thus, I created an Excel spreadsheet which does the calculations. The sheet defaults to the 3 standard knurl pitches and the first hundred or so resulting diameters. If you need a larger diameter, change the value of "N" from 0 to some bigger number. You can also change the pitch values and the tables will be re-calculated.

The spreadsheet is locked (with no password so you're free to modify it) to prevent accidental change to any formula macros. Only the 4 necessary fields can be changed by you if you keep the sheet locked.

... And since I'm not terribly artistic, you'll have to take the page layout as is or, modify it yourself.

Here's the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4jIzRGAhvM&feature=channel&list=UL

Spreadsheet attached.


Have Fun...

Ray

PS: Much thanks to Tony and Nelson for adjusting the web software to allow spreadsheet files.
 

Attachments

  • KnurlPitchDiameters.xlsx
    26.1 KB · Views: 131
Re: "Easy Knurling" by Conrad Hoffman

I always teach my students when knurling on an engine lathe to use a slow spindle - I tell them 60 or less with a fast feed .015" - .030" and a lot of cutting oil.

Be careful not to get acid brush or oil can into rollers. Although they can be replaced, your fingers can not!

Knurling is one of those things that takes practice and when everything is right you can still pickup a chip and get a smear spot on your knurl.

Them are some good looking knurls!!!
 
Re: "Easy Knurling" by Conrad Hoffman

I always teach my students when knurling on an engine lathe to use a slow spindle - I tell them 60 or less with a fast feed .015" - .030" and a lot of cutting oil.
Please explain this part a bit more.
My knurls are all narrow - maybe 3/8-1/2" wide? Are you talking about using the automatic feed to push the knurling tool into the work, or using the feed to move it left/right to make a knurl wider than the knurling tool?
If you mean auto-feed into the work (to make a knurl just as wide as the knurling tool) then how do you know when to stop, can you stop along the way to check your progress and if so what do you need to reposition prior to starting back up?

If you mean auto-feed left/right to make a knurl wider than the tool then i've got another set of questions for you....
thanks
Joe
 
Re: "Easy Knurling" by Conrad Hoffman

Please explain this part a bit more.
My knurls are all narrow - maybe 3/8-1/2" wide? Are you talking about using the automatic feed to push the knurling tool into the work, or using the feed to move it left/right to make a knurl wider than the knurling tool?
If you mean auto-feed into the work (to make a knurl just as wide as the knurling tool) then how do you know when to stop, can you stop along the way to check your progress and if so what do you need to reposition prior to starting back up?

If you mean auto-feed left/right to make a knurl wider than the tool then i've got another set of questions for you....
thanks
Joe

I’m talking about using the feed to move along the “Z” axis either towards or away from the spindle. I find the scissor type of knurling tool works best for beginners. With the old roller push type, some actually tilt the knurls about 10⁰ to get everything tracking and then move it back. Seems like every year 95% or more of students get better knurls with the scissor knurl. I also find that it works best if you can get the rollers pretty much on top and bottom as you can before you start. Tightening up the rollers will cause it to shift a little.

Don’t disengage the feed, but stop the lathe and check your pattern and tighten up the rollers and reverse the direction of travel. As you get used to it, you don’t need to stop the lathe to reverse the travel direction, or at least on any of the lathes that I have ever ran. After I give the demo, I always have someone that’s says I make it look easy until they try it. It’s just one of the things that come with practice.

Our first project that students knurl is a bearing driver and I actually have them use 2 9/16” DIA - 12L14 material to get more used to working on the lathe and figuring out all the levers. Several years ago we purchased semi load for $.08/pound so they get lots of practice. Think it was 95 bars at 12’. This is also a “between centers” exercise. Before this they have only done one project on the lathe that is making a post that will eventually become part of a Drill Jig. Once they get it down to 1.125”, I have them start practice knurling and have them try both the push and scissor knurls. Make a knurl, show me, turn off the knurl and do it again. They end up with a DIA of 7/8” X 8” OAL.

Another thing that I always see is supporting the end of the part. My rule of thumb is if you have more than 1/3 of the DIA extended out the chuck, you need it supported in the tailstock one way or another.

Knurling in a CNC lathe is a beast of a different nature.
 
Back
Top