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Drum switch to Motor with board If I eliminate the board?

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markba633csi

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#31
capw1x.JPG OK I've been referencing those first pictures you posted and was not clear about the cap wires. Still can't see clearly- it looks like the cap has a blue and a green wire coming out to the board.
M
 
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markba633csi

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#34
See the green that connects to that white thermal wire is not the one from the cap! There's another green from the cap to the start winding, the other end of the start winding is yellow- see?
So this should work; drum switch: (remove the thermal)
1 to line hot
5 to line neutral
3 blue from start switch
4 yellow
2 black and green
6 red and brown

Sorry it took so long
Mark S.
 

woodchucker

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#35
There's only one green, that green does go to the cap. The white goes to the thermal overload, the other end of that thermal overload goes to power, and the third leg of the thermal overload goes to the 220 connection #3 on the motor wiring.
 

markba633csi

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#36
Well if my last post doesn't work I guess I'll have to call it a day.
Good luck
Mark S.
 

woodchucker

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#37
Mark, you were right there were 2 greens. I ohmed out the green again to the cap. It had a higher resistance, so what I think is that the green from the cap goes into a paper insulsator, and the green that goes to the board comes out of a paper insulator. They are not the same green wire.
The motor is wired as in my diagram and is working forward and reverse in 120v mode. I may try it in 220v when I go to permanently hook it up. Right now, I'm re-assembling the mill. And waiting on bearings.
 

markba633csi

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#38
Never argue with the Master, grasshopper! Glad u got it working
MS
ps It's actually not common practice to use green for current-carrying conductors, probably it's against the code, and they did it twice! Like I said, it's the oddest color scheme I've run across.
 
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