Drum switch to Motor with board If I eliminate the board?

woodchucker

Registered
Registered
Joined
Nov 25, 2015
Messages
8,056
So I'm a little stumped right now, I believe this is doable w/o a separate on/off switch, I read some of the other posts, and I think I can do this with the drum switch. I believe if I eliminate the board (which eliminates the thermal protection, and direct wire I can do it. Am I wrong.
MotorWiringPlate_adj.jpg
VisiblePlate.JPG
HiddenPlate1.jpg
RS1A_diagram.jpg
 
Hi woodchucker,
the board contains the centrifugal start switch.
you could possibly make it work, but you'd need to make provision for a momentary start switch.
 
You can do it and keep the board and thermal thingie too. I assume you want to run it on 115 volts.
If you give me a second I can whip up a sketch..
Mark S.
 
Ok this ought to do it: drum2x.jpg
Disconnect your two start leg wires, blue and yellow and connect them to 3 and 4 on the drum switch. Everything that used to go to that blue, extend with a single wire and connect to 1 on the drum switch. Everything that used to go to yellow, bring it to 6 on the drum switch. Single wire again. Drum 2 not used.
Your hot line wire still goes only to 1 on the motor. Your line neutral should go only to 5 on the drum switch.
That should give you forward and reverse with off in the center. We are breaking the neutral to kill the motor in this configuration. Swap blue and yellow if necessary to get the motor rotation to match the label on the drum switch cover.
Remember that the motor terminal 1 is always live. If that's not acceptable there are alternate connections but would probably require chucking the thermal. Make sure you have a separate safety ground wire to the motor case which connects to a reliable water-pipe type ground.
Mark S.
 
Last edited:
i saw no reference to manufacturer or model of drum switch in the OP's description,
identifying the drum switch may prove to be essential.
there are many types of drum switches, all are not wired the same
 
Hi woodchucker,
the board contains the centrifugal start switch.
you could possibly make it work, but you'd need to make provision for a momentary start switch.

I'm keeping the board with the cent. switch, just not terminating off the board.
I figure if I go to direct wire and eliminate the thermal, I get closer to a motor designed for the switch.
 
Ok this ought to do it: View attachment 230156
Disconnect your two start leg wires, blue and yellow and connect them to 3 and 4 on the drum switch. Everything that used to go to that blue, extend with a single wire and connect to 1 on the drum switch. Everything that used to go to yellow, bring it to 6 on the drum switch. Single wire again. Drum 2 not used.
Your hot line wire still goes only to 1 on the motor. Your line neutral should go only to 5 on the drum switch.
That should give you forward and reverse with off in the center. We are breaking the neutral to kill the motor in this configuration. Swap blue and yellow if necessary to get the motor rotation to match the label on the drum switch cover.
Remember that the motor terminal 1 is always live. If that's not acceptable there are alternate connections but would probably require chucking the thermal. Make sure you have a separate safety ground wire to the motor case which connects to a reliable water-pipe type ground.
Mark S.
I am chucking the thermal switch.. And no I don't want neutral as the switched, I would rather hot be switched. Thanks.
 
i saw no reference to manufacturer or model of drum switch in the OP's description,
identifying the drum switch may prove to be essential.
there are many types of drum switches, all are not wired the same

I included the wiring diagram from the vendor (electric motor warehouse).. Its an RS-1A-SH by Relay and Control Corp.
 
OK it's only a little more work to switch both the line wires. Essentially you need to wire as per the "single phase" version on the drum switch diagrams, even though the capacitor and start switch are not shown, the principle is the same; they are just in series with the start winding.
I believe you can keep the thermal too, I think we covered this in an earlier post- let me see if I can find it and I'll repost it.
Mark S.
 
Ok this ought to do it: View attachment 230156
Disconnect your two start leg wires, blue and yellow and connect them to 3 and 4 on the drum switch. Everything that used to go to that blue, extend with a single wire and connect to 1 on the drum switch. Everything that used to go to yellow, bring it to 6 on the drum switch. Single wire again. Drum 2 not used.
Your hot line wire still goes only to 1 on the motor. Your line neutral should go only to 5 on the drum switch.
That should give you forward and reverse with off in the center. We are breaking the neutral to kill the motor in this configuration. Swap blue and yellow if necessary to get the motor rotation to match the label on the drum switch cover.
Remember that the motor terminal 1 is always live. If that's not acceptable there are alternate connections but would probably require chucking the thermal. Make sure you have a separate safety ground wire to the motor case which connects to a reliable water-pipe type ground.
Mark S.
I actually think you are close, but Drum 2 is used for line in, and Drum 1 as you said, that switches the hot on and off.
 
Back
Top