Drill Bit Sharpeners?

coolidge

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I spent a couple hours yesterday browsing new and used drill bit sharpeners. The consensus seems to be that the various Drill Doctors are junk. Any suggestions?

The Darex V390 seems to be well regarded by reviewers but man $1,400 would buy a lot of drill bits. http://www.penntoolco.com/darex-v390-industrial-drill-sharpener/

There's some China and Taiwan sharpeners in the $300 to $900 range, mostly collet based.
 
I find that a bench grinder or a disk sander is a pretty effective drill bit sharpener. Just takes a little practice. If you take a new, large drill bit and with the grinder OFF, hold the bit like you are going to sharpen it and follow the grind. You can train your hand movements to do a nice job! Total cost $0.

You could put the money you saved towards that new Haas;)
 
I built the attached sharpener from the write up in HSM by John Moran (Jan/Feb 2012).
Needed some modification but works amazingly well. The only purchase part was the ER-20 Collet chuck and collets and a $10 motor from Princess Auto (like Harbour Freight)
1bd64223-ecc2-4ec9-9b7f-d9e80ea05146.jpg
 
The Darex, Sellers, Oliver, Black Diamond, even Giddings and Lewis are just great IF you have lots of larger drills to grind along with plenty of money and shop space. I don't have the shop space and I would not use one enough to justify the cost of one.

There is a definite understanding and learning curve involved with all drill grinding methods, from the cheapest to the fanciest. I started with one of the Craftsman swing type grinding jigs that is typically used on the side of a bench grinder wheel. After spending time figuring out how it really works and how to adjust it for the desired results on various size and geometry drills, it works just fine, great results. After that I learned to grind drills by hand and by eye at a bench grinder. It is not really difficult, but there is an art to doing it correctly which takes practice. Beyond that, for both of the methods I have mentioned so far, most people just aim for sharp, but also needed is accurate sized holes, both cutting edges doing equal work, and proper relief for correct feeds and good support for the cutting edges. For both these methods a drill point gauge is needed to check for equal angles and lengths on the cutting edges and equal relief -- on every drill sharpened. In the last couple years I have come into many hundreds of nice vintage USA drill bits from .006" to about 1 1/2" diameter, at nearly free prices. After cleaning up the crud and rust and the buggered shanks, most needed a fresh grind. So I bought a Drill Doctor 750X along with an extra coarser wheel for larger drills. Again, there is a learning curve, but that machine works very well when used properly. I have been using it on drills from 3/32" to 3/4" with excellent results. After getting the technique down, drills can be ground very nicely without checking each one with a drill point gauge, which saves lots of time and squinting. With the 750X is is easy to change point angle and relief angle, and nice split points can be done as well with a bit of practice. All of the methods in this paragraph take considerable time and practice to do properly.

ALL drill grinding methods, jigs, and machines have a learning curve which requires study, practice, careful observation of results, and an good understanding of the process and of what makes a drill work well. Money will not buy instant success, and large and expensive automatic machines are for large shops doing lots of production drilling. Home shop guys like us need to use our eyes and brains instead of trying to purchase results.

No drill grinder or method works by itself...
 
The Drill Doctors are not that great. I do most of my drill bit sharpening by hand. And it looks darn good too. Just takes some practice. I have many bench grinders set up. One of them has a white wheel just for sharpening drill bits. If I want to get lazy and also split point, then I use my Darex. It’s not that user friendly and has lots of pot metal construction. But once you get the hang of it, it does a very nice job (land/lip evenness can be iffy)…Good Luck, Dave.darex.JPG
 
I think one shop I worked in had a drill sharpener. We always did them by hand, even our large dia drills. Some guys absolutely sucked sharpening drill bits, uneven flutes, different angles and no cutting edge relief.
 
I find that hand grinding is best suited to larger drill bits. I will try to use some kind of machine or jig on pretty much everything under 3/4", though I can certainly do much smaller ones by hand and eye. The small ones are much fussier to check for accuracy, and need more accuracy. Below 3/32" I will only grind them in a pinch regardless of method. OTOH, big drills are relatively easy to hold and to see what is happening. A 1-1/2" drill is a piece of cake to hand grind, relatively.
 
Well I haven't seen anything to lure me away from a Darex V390 though no way I buy one of those until a 30% off sale comes around. There's kind of a rusty junk one on ebay for $600. I did find a couple of older made in USA cabinet based grinders I would have gone for except the cross country freight shipping made them cost prohibitive.

Grinding bits by hand isn't going to happen, I couldn't grind them worth a damn when I was young and could still see what I was doing. I did find a couple older made in USA grinders that had large comparators on them but boy they were spendy.
 
Grinding bits by hand isn't going to happen, I couldn't grind them worth a damn when I was young and could still see what I was doing. I did find a couple older made in USA grinders that had large comparators on them but boy they were spendy.

Maybe you need those binocular glasses that surgeons wear. I've been thinking about getting a pair, I just work by feel anymore.:D
 
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