DC Tredmill motor HELP!

use the threadmill controller if it is a m60 they work great, that is the reson you use the m60 contoller because to find one on ebay to carry enough amp would cost a great deal (example danfoss) etc
 
Last edited:
That is a very powerfull treadmill motor and very thirsty for amps.
I would save that for a project requiring more power and pick up an entire used treadmill for less than the motor controller will cost you to run that motor.
Then you have all the electrics you need and all you have to do is rearange them and shorten or lenghten wiring alreay existing.
The 90 volt motors work well 9.5 amp and 4000 rpm capable and sealed. Rated 1.5 hp.
 
Thank you everyone for the replys. I really appreciate the information!

Amuller: I think a fan was on there. I have to find another one. Also, I never thought about chips getting in the motor. I will DEF protect that now. As far as speed, I hope to vary it.

Kernbigo: I have seen the m60 refered to many times. I'll look it up and see if it will work for my motor.

Rgray: I thought this was a powerful motor. However, everyone says to think that it is about half of the rated HP because it came from overseas. I may use it for another project, but I've had it sitting aroung for 5 years collecting dust, so it will be nice to see it used for something. Also, I'm not sure if I'll have another project I will need it for.

Dirtyjim: I will look at the Dayton.

Now the $64K question. Does the controller change the voltage from AC to DC? Yes, I am that "dum" on electricity.

Thanks again guys........
 
jster1963.
Yes, most dc motor controllers contain the circuitry to convert AC to DC. The MC-60 controller I reffer to definitly does. As I recycled a Freecycle treadmill motor and controller, I re-used the power cord and the circuit breaker type power switch, and the control panel wiring. I only had to add the potentiometer, and the reversing switch. I used a piece of aluminum plate to mount the switches, put the pot. in the origional mill control box. I mounted the plate to the side of the origional control box.
I will provide pictures if you need them.
Do you have a Freecycle group in your area?

Chuck
 
Yes the motor controller changes ac to dc for the motor and voltage is varied for speed control.
I don't feel the hp ratings are over rated at all on these dc motors they have a ton of power.
They do turn faster than most ac motors so gearing must be considered.
I started out witha 7x10 mini lathe and the motor on that is smaller than a coke can but there was no shortage of power.
I took the wifes old treadmill and turned it into a sander. used an old dual 8" wheeled belt driven sander. I left the flywheel on and drove the sander with a timming belt from the oposite end of the motor. I geared it 1:1 it is a very nice addition to the shop. Can go very slow or very fast with the 4000rpm capView attachment 43867ability of the motor.
 
I have used motors virtually identical to that one in some 10 installations so I have a good bit of experience with them...

I think a fan was on there. I have to find another one. Also, I never thought about chips getting in the motor.

Dont put a lot of effort right off on a fan, I have never had a problem with heat build up - after install just lay your hand on the motor occasionally and check, if you should get heat, then work to correct it. For chip protection I use that thin foam thats in packages tie wrapped around the open areas.

However, everyone says to think that it is about half of the rated HP be

This is pretty much true, also the rpm is often a good bit more than shown (this can be a prob in some cases)

Does the controller change the voltage from AC to DC? Yes, I am that "dum" on electricity.

Yes, you might do a more specific search on ebay for something like "treadmill speed controller" - there are so many of those little controllers that control DC in and DC out - you need AC in. You should get one for under $100 - There are several on this ebay page...

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trk...read+mill+motor+controller&_sacat=0&_from=R40
 
A quick Google search says that the motor is out of a Nordictrack C2000 treadmill.
The search also turned up a users manual for the treadmill:
http://dl.owneriq.net/8/8ae0a493-cace-467c-be6f-a1f0b91c3baa.pdf
Not sure the manual helps much except to confirm that Nordictrack expects to run the treadmill from a typical wall outlet, so the AC draw is probably less than 15 amps. Also means the motor is most likely a 90 Volt motor. The 120 volt AC power from the outlet ends up at about 90 volts (max) after being converted to DC. The DC drive varies the voltage from 90 V on down to control motor speed and torque.

One hitch might be the rated speed. DC motors are designed to achieve a rated speed at their rated voltage. The quickest way to determine this might be to hook the motor up to someone's 90 V drive (with nothing connected to the shaft) and use a hand tach to check the speed at 90 V. Then you will know what type belt ratio to design for your machine.

I am guessing that a 90 V DC drive sized for 1 HP would do the job. Most drives have a setting so you can limit the maximum current so as not to burn out the drive if the motor calls for more currant than the drive can deliver.

There are probably only two terminals on the motor - both going to the armature. If there are more, they might be for a hi temp switch or something like that. You will have to figure out which is which. One way to confirm the armature terminals is to use a voltmeter set for DC. When the meter is connected to the armature terminals, you will be able to generate a little voltage by turning the shaft by hand. (Only works on a permanent magnet motor which this is).

So - a standard 90V DC controller as mentioned in the other posts might be what is needed.
Terry S.
 
THANK YOU SO MUCH for the info guys! I will be using this motor for a mini lathe (Atlas 618). It usually uses an AC motor and the speed is varied by changing the belt to a different pully. I will experiment with the speed by changing the speed of the motor, AND the pullys. I'll use the pully that works best with the motor torque and speed.

Chucketn: Thank you. However, I have never heard of "freecycle". Also, I may need a pic. I'll let you know.

Rgray: Thank you. Great looking sander! Nice job. I plan to use the best pully/motor speed combo for my lathe.

Pacer: Thank you. I'm going to take that advice. I don't think I'll be driving the motor that hard. I think I will use an enclosure for chip protection.

Twstoezinger: Thank you. You are SO rite! I still have that tredmill, and use it:) It was under warranty and the "fix it guy" brought a motor just in case. He changed the motor "just because" and let me keep the old motor. (Nothing was wrong with the motor. He adjusted something.) I'll look for that kind of controller.

I have one more question. I've read that a Harbor Freight router speed control would work. Is that true? If so, do I have to "mod" it?

Thanks again guys.......jj
 
I'm thinking no on that one. As is runs AC/DC motors. I use a little speed control like that on my electric die grinder and it works great.
You have a straight DC motor so I think it will just eat that control.
If it did work I'd be second in line to get one cause the controlers (for DC motor) that I've been watching on ebay have been selling upwards of $100.00 used.

Someone with more electrical know how than me will answer hopefully.

not sure how I got italics there...typo....typo
 
Back
Top