Counterfeits, Fakes And Copies....? Tools And Gages

EmilioG said:
Has anyone ever bought a fake when they thought they were buying the genuine article?
I've seen some good Mitutoyo caliper copies that can fool a lot of people.
I've never bought a fake anything, but I'm curious to hear if anyone has or knows of
fake Interapids, Starrett, Mitutoyo etc... The Chinese can copy anything.

And how do you spot them? I try to buy from reputable dealers mostly. This is not meant to
embarrass anyone or say your foolish. We've all been duped by something. Sometimes we spotted them in time. :)
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So are you quite certain you have no fakes? ;)

Wheresmywrench? said:
Mitutoyo uses an LR44 battery not a SR44 batteries.
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You have this reversed, The SR44 is the better battery and is called out in the instructions here:
http://www.mitutoyo.co.jp/eng/support/service/manual/pdf/99MAD014M4_Digimatic_Caliper.pdf
 
I'm sure that I don't have any fakes because most of my tools were inherited from my Dad who was a
machinist. All vintage Starrett from the 60's and 70's. My Mitutoyo digital caliper and Etalon mic's
are all real. My tools are too accurate and well finished to be fakes. The Chinese are not good with certain details.
But yes, I'm sure.
 
Not so. The Chinese are very good at machining & production. They build to lower standards however usually to the specs of the importer. I have some nice Chinese tools along with other nice items built in China. I just got a .0001" indacator from China that has nice finish & is very smooth. No complements about it so far.
 
coolidge said:
Mitutoyo has a web site dealing with the Chinese who are making counterfeit copies of their products, they offer some advice on how to spot the fakes. They also counterfeit things like Gibson guitars.
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They counterfeit everything! If a company has at any point in their history moved production to China to save a few bucks, their product will be copied.

Calloway golf clubs, Danner boots, automobiles, anything.
 
They sometimes make mistakes coping them tho. I bought the 123 blocks from China. I'm not sure what they are good for since they won't bold togather or to the table. The through holes are smaller then the threaded holes. Maybe I'll need something to bang with & they will be closer then the hamer.
 
kingmt01 said:
They sometimes make mistakes coping them tho. I bought the 123 blocks from China. I'm not sure what they are good for since they won't bold togather or to the table. The through holes are smaller then the threaded holes. Maybe I'll need something to bang with & they will be closer then the hamer.
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I've been looking for a decent set of 123 blocks for some months now. It seems that ALL the imported ones have 5/16" clearance holes and 3/8-16 tapped holes. Probably an easy shortcut when manufacturing - start out drilling all the holes 5/16", which is the tap drill size for 3/8-16.

I' ve even gone so far as to ask a few of the suppliers about this "feature." Those who even bothered to answer basically said to use 1/4" screws. My best hope is to run across a nice "vintage" set somewhere ... unless SOMEBODY knows of a currently available set that bolts together nicely (for less that the cost of a new car).
 
The holes tapped for 3/8 don't fit very well ether. They feel like they will pull out they are so sloppy. At least on mine. I don't get it why they would just say is 1/4" when they could have it fixed.
 
Except for the finish on the micrometer, they all look pretty good. If your work requires it, buy the real stuff. These items, however, are practically "disposable." I buy real when I can/need; otherwise, my Chinese tools are usable and afford me a greater variety of tools and instruments. BTW, I can't afford Swiss watches anymore, either, but my Casio G-Shock, Atomic, Sun-recharged can't be beat for utility and accuracy. It is made in Thailand. I gave my Swiss chronograph away (at $300 for a cleaning/adjustment). Not a hard decision. I miss it, but not for it's accuracy or utility.
 
Bought a set of "Mitutoyo" telescoping gauges; and once disassembled, I discovered something that tipped it off as a fake. The locking pin that locks the expanding members had an end that looked like it was cut with side cutters (complete with burrs). Of course, the ability to set and lock the tool was compromised. Good tools have a polished and slightly convex end.
 
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