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Copycat Mill Build.

Blackhawk

Active User
Active Member
#61
Steve,
I wound up turning a jam nut on the lathe, looks like crap but I'm going for it. I'll make a better one later.
Before I go any further I have a couple questions, I'm taking the mill apart again to make a channel for better oil coverage on the x and y, but what about the z, I have no place on mine to oil it. And another question about the ball nuts, I see you put a grease fitting on yours, what kind of grease are you using?

Lanham
 

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
#62
I use marine bearing grease, it won't mix with water. the screws don't get wet but a little added protection don't hurt.
I have only greased mine 2 times and as soon as i tried to pump the second time it was full and still clean.
every time I start my machine I run z to the top, pull the splash guard away, wipe the dovetails, squirt oil on the dovetails and on the top of the saddle where it meets the dovetails. I run y all the way out clean and oil the dovetail then all the way in and the same.
x I can run to the ball nut both directions and see almost half the dovetail so cleaning is easy and I put the oil directly on the gibs and dovetails. when i recenter x i pump it into the oil fittings. It takes about 10 minutes to clean and lube and since I had spotted rust from coolant sitting on top the y way I like to keep it clean and greased with a thin film. not the dovetail just the top in between the dovetails. this water soluble oil never rusts unless it can sit for a long time then it separates I guess.
that's plenty for one days use. I do use way oil.
z doesn't travel near as much as x and y.
I'm not production so if it sat for a while I like to wipe the machine down and if I did install the pump ( I actually purchased one ) I know me I'd start getting lazy and just pump.
Steve
 

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
#63
I just cranked up my steps per inch from 5078 on X and Y to 25390
it will now step .0001 at a time, before the best was .0002 per step
I haven't seen a loss in power and it sounds really guiet and smooth.
I'll let you know how it works out.
that figures to 5 times the accuracy and backlash is consistantly within .0002
I Wanted to try this for a project I'm working on for Billy G only the finish will tell
Steve
 

Blackhawk

Active User
Active Member
#64
Thanks for the reply, I think I'll keep simple and do what you are doing.

I'm still tracking down on why my 2 of my axis will spin only one direction, I think it's wiring

Lanham
 

Blackhawk

Active User
Active Member
#66
Steve,
Never mind on the pics, I found them on your build, this is getting frustrating, I have them hooked up same as you and it's not working, maybe I have a bad soldier job somewhere.

Lanham
 

Blackhawk

Active User
Active Member
#67
Got the z working good, had a crossed wire.

The only to get movement out of x and y is to remove black wire from board, and it only goes in one direction

Lanham
 

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
#68
DSCF1836.JPG go into mach3 ports and pins and check your settings for the motors
I'm not in the shop but here is a pic of mine
Steve
 
Last edited:

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
#69
also check your breakout board for pin switches
some boards can be set as high or low active and yours may be set wrong
give me it's part number and I might be able to find information
Steve
 

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
#71
I think the black wire was enable and you probably don't have the pins for enable turned on and assigned the correct port and pin in the "ports and pins"
"output signals" screen.
that would explain no motion with wire on and motion with wire off.
the always the same direction seems like a tuning problem.
I would remove the motors from the mill for x and y until you have them running right, it is easier to watch them without running to the end of travel.
I'll try to get out to my shed later
Steve
 

Blackhawk

Active User
Active Member
#74
Called Steve the other night and got the x and y working but had a wiring issue with the z, I rewired the whole axis and could not get it to work. I was wiggling wires to see if maybe there was a short somewhere, that's when the driver for the z caught fire on the wiring to the motor. I pulled it off as fast as I could. I've sort of been suspecting that connector. Not sure if I blew out the driver or not, no black smoke or anything burning, just a melted wire. Checked the motor and it still works, took the driver apart and nothing burnt.

Lanham
 

Boswell

Hobby Machinist since 2010
H-M Supporter-Premium
#76
It sounds like you got lucky that the motor is not damaged. Hopefully the drive is good as well.
 

Blackhawk

Active User
Active Member
#79
Forget my video about the printer port, multi meter is broke, can't get consistent readings. Hooked up a second computer with Mach 3 and the z axis still only turns one way

Lanham
 

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
#80
Z's direction pin is supposed to be 7 not 8 if you set up mach3 the same as mine
check pin 7 to see if you get voltage one way and not the other when you jog Z
Seve
 

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
#83
the drive is not getting a direction voltage from the breakout board
the drive is enabled because it turns one direction. and I think the black wire is enable right?
Steve
 

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
#87
That's great
Your not the only one who had trouble with that drive. the terminology they used for
the connections is different than the others.
I was happy to help you out
Steve
 

Blackhawk

Active User
Active Member
#90
Steve,

I watched your video on backlash, I adjusted mine but the best 007 on the x and .004 on the y, does that seem excessive?

Lanham