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Copycat Mill Build.

Blackhawk

Active User
Active Member
#1
I'm building the same mill as steve and was looking for advice from the forum members as i go. i was having problems with the electronics untill i got a link from a forum member from steves build and it proved to be the solution. here is the link to the video. <iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/yvfn82KQoC0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

Blackhawk

Active User
Active Member
#5
success, i got the 4200 running from the smaller driver so i know it works, now i just need to find connector for the big driver. does anyone know where i might find it?

lanham
Picture 3.jpg

Picture 3.jpg
 

Blackhawk

Active User
Active Member
#9
ybrgmountplate.jpg doing this on a manual mill is taking a long time. This pic shows steves file and the coordinates i added from emachineshop. now i need to figure out what size bolts and what holes to tap and what size

lanhamk

ybrgmountplate.jpg
 

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
#10
my controller came with the plug?
if you need help i can post the connections for that controller.
there are far more connections than needed and it is easy to connect once you have the plug.
( I dont seem to be getting all the threads i reply in in my email? if you have questions and i dont reply pm me I'd be glad to help you)
steve

yaxiswithnotes.png
 

jumps4

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#14
should not hurt anything, did you compare my measurements to your mill
who knows if they are all drilled the same? the alignment pin holes are drilled after assembly i guess because they are not in the same locations on my mill table. so i did not install the pins
steve
 

jumps4

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Active Member
#17
just a thought
once you have everything figured out you should be using shielded wire for all the low voltage connections from the breakout board to the controllers to avoid problems such as false signals.
steve
 

DMS

Active User
Active Member
#18
I made the mistake of not removing an endmill from the spindle while setting up a part in the vice. Ran my fist into (spindle was off). Cut me pretty good. They cut people even better than aluminum...

Also, shielded cable is good, but you need to make sure you ground your shield properly, or it doesn't do you any good. Usually there is what is called a "drain wire"; a bare wire that runs through the length of the cable and sits against the metal shield. Tie this to earth ground. Don't tie it to your power supply negative, that can just make things worse.
 

Blackhawk

Active User
Active Member
#19
Steve,

I checked the measurements before i started making brackets and it looks like it will fit.

I got 100 feet of shielded wire from the same place as you.

Do you have the demensions for the side brackets? I did not see them in the zip file from your build?

7HC,

I ordered the parts i needed for the controller from online, not bad for .54 but $6.oo shipping was high.

Dms,

thanks for the tip on the ground wire.

off to make more brackets.





brack.JPG
This is the first time i have used a rotary table and jacked it up a bit.

brack1.JPG

brack.JPG brack1.JPG
 

jumps4

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Active Member
#20
I'm headed for the shed now
I will measure the side brackets/standoffs and post them this morning
there was no drawing because none of the machining was cnc
the coupling length makes a difference in the standoff length i will post my coupling lengths also
your moving right along
steve
 

jumps4

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#21
as i typed that it started lightning here
it will have to be later, i'll post as soon as possible
steve
 

jumps4

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#22
my standoffs on X and Y are 3" long 1/2" thick and height matches bearing mount plate height
Y height 2.375
X height 2.0
my couplings are 1.5" long
the mounting holes are 1/4-20 thread and I transfer punched them to align
steve
 

jumps4

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Active Member
#23
here is my mach3 zx45mill xml file
it is the complete setup and present calibration of my mill
you can unzip and copy this file to your mach3 ( c:\mach3 ) directory and as long as you are using a uc100 controller, you set all drive switches to match mine, your mill will be calibrated and ready to tune and set backlash.
when you open the mach3 loader you will see zx45mill in the list of choices
if you have the same ballscrews you will be all set to start
steve
 

Attachments

Blackhawk

Active User
Active Member
#25
Steve,

I want to see if my brackets fit before going further and an having a heck of a time find a bolt to use as a jack screw to get the mill bracket off, any sugestions?

lanham




photo1.JPG

photo1.JPG
 

jumps4

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Active Member
#27
the pins are tapered and have a thread in the center. i just found a screw and used a claw hammer to pull them. once they move they slide right out.
your coming along pretty well. did you order the same bearings as i did? if so they will need to be worked on. they did not put a shim in mine between the outer races so i could not preload the bearing. to see if yours are shimmed, press in on the inner bearings with your thumb and forefinger to preload and see if there is movement still. if there is you will have to take it apart and add a shim inbetween the outer races. i used a thin wire bent around the inside of the housing.
steve
 

Blackhawk

Active User
Active Member
#28
Thanks,

i am heading to radio shack in a few to pick up some heat shrink and look for a bus bar and a power switch or two, any suggestions?

lanham
 

jumps4

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Staff member
Active Member
#30
at the present time i dont use them
1 is for limit switch or inputs such as touch sensors autozero z ect.
the second is to run and external relay for coolant pump through mach3
and the third would turn the spindle on and off through mach3
there are other uses I just wanted to bring all the inputs and outputs to the outside of the case. you cant get to them once everything is installed in the box. there is another wire you can see taped to the harness inside marked relay also that is extra
steve