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- Feb 17, 2013
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Last night I completed a collet closer for my Grizzly DF1225G/G1003 (12" x 24") lathe. The newer version of this lathe is the G4002, and they sell a complete collet closer for it - their part number G4026. I considered buying this attachment, but it’s a bit expensive ($353) and as best I can tell, the lathe spindle is now different. The currently available accessory would probably take a whole bunch of kludging to get it to work.
Being adventurous, I decided to make my own collet adapter, using a couple of the key parts from Grizzly. I bought the MT5-5C adapter (P4026001) and draw tube (P4026002) for $146 (including shipping), plus a needle thrust bearing set from Enco (327-8040 and 2X, 327-8049), ~$7.50 plus shipping. Fortunately, I already had a nice 8” aluminum handwheel I could adapt.
I started by making a centering collar for the outer end of the draw tube. Made from a PVC pipe fitting, I sized it to be a snug fit on the tube and an easy slip fit inside the spindle. I bored out the hub of the handwheel for a sliding fit on the draw tube.
Then I inserted the MT5-5C adapter and a collet in the spindle, screwed in the draw tube, and slipped on the bearing and handwheel. Measuring how far the draw tube extended outside the back of the handwheel when fully threaded into the collet and when the threads were just starting to bite gave me a range ~1/2" long. I picked a point about halfway along this range to set the handwheel position. Drilled and tapped a pair of 1/4-20 holes opposite each other to secure the handwheel. Then I cut off all but about 1” of the draw tube and drilled/tapped four 10-32 holes for a spider near the end.
I don’t yet have a full set of fixturing goodies for my mill. The first two photos show my “field expedient” method of locating the #10 holes at 90 degree intervals - tightened a V block to the tube and used a square to align one of its faces perpendicular to the mill table. The step block assembly is a crude but effective end stop.
The next two photos show the draw tube parts and assembly.
The last photos show the ends of my new collet closer. No, it’s not as fast or elegnt as a lever operated closer, but it works well, and the handwheel affords plenty of leverage to close the collet securely. The needle bearing does a nice job of reducing friction when operating the handwheel. If I need an end stop for the workpiece, I can use a rod held in place by the spider screws.
Being adventurous, I decided to make my own collet adapter, using a couple of the key parts from Grizzly. I bought the MT5-5C adapter (P4026001) and draw tube (P4026002) for $146 (including shipping), plus a needle thrust bearing set from Enco (327-8040 and 2X, 327-8049), ~$7.50 plus shipping. Fortunately, I already had a nice 8” aluminum handwheel I could adapt.
I started by making a centering collar for the outer end of the draw tube. Made from a PVC pipe fitting, I sized it to be a snug fit on the tube and an easy slip fit inside the spindle. I bored out the hub of the handwheel for a sliding fit on the draw tube.
Then I inserted the MT5-5C adapter and a collet in the spindle, screwed in the draw tube, and slipped on the bearing and handwheel. Measuring how far the draw tube extended outside the back of the handwheel when fully threaded into the collet and when the threads were just starting to bite gave me a range ~1/2" long. I picked a point about halfway along this range to set the handwheel position. Drilled and tapped a pair of 1/4-20 holes opposite each other to secure the handwheel. Then I cut off all but about 1” of the draw tube and drilled/tapped four 10-32 holes for a spider near the end.
I don’t yet have a full set of fixturing goodies for my mill. The first two photos show my “field expedient” method of locating the #10 holes at 90 degree intervals - tightened a V block to the tube and used a square to align one of its faces perpendicular to the mill table. The step block assembly is a crude but effective end stop.
The next two photos show the draw tube parts and assembly.
The last photos show the ends of my new collet closer. No, it’s not as fast or elegnt as a lever operated closer, but it works well, and the handwheel affords plenty of leverage to close the collet securely. The needle bearing does a nice job of reducing friction when operating the handwheel. If I need an end stop for the workpiece, I can use a rod held in place by the spider screws.