Cleaning ways and metal surfaces/?

[Darkbluesky]

I'm new to machining and just picked up an old colchester bantam. https://imgur.com/gallery/UaPsX

It's in real good shape but as I'm waiting to have my 240 line installed to I can run it I figured I'd give it a once over and clean it up as best I can. Initially I had thoughts of repainting, but I'm new enough I don't trust myself to take apart and get it back together. Combine that with the work of stripping paint I worry I'd stall on the work and take a year to get it back together. I'd rather just use it for now.

Quick question on the ways and metal surfaces. Everything looks relatively clean, but the ways has a little bit of built up grime. I can just feel it with my finger pad when I run over it in some sections. I'd read previously to stay way from ways with abrasives so just wondering if there are proffered ways to get that down to flush?

How about the other metal surfaces? Crossslide and such. This metal has just miniscule pitting, but figured I could clean it up while I've got time.

Got a good lesson how lathes can be dangerous even when they're not moving when the damn thing almost topped over on the lift gate as my driveway has just a slight decline. Now that it's on the ground I'm looking forward to cleaning it up and getting my power run so I can give a go at making some things.

 

[Dave Paine]

Easy to use solvents are mineral spirits, or gasoline to remove the grime. Just wet a piece of the blue shop towel with the solvent. I then use acetone for final step to remove the other solvent, then apply some way oil.

For some really thick grime, consider diluted Purple Power, many brands, just do not let this sit for long time on painted surfaces. I found this out the hard way.

If the grime is thick, you may need to scrub the solvent with an old toothbrush to remove the grime.

 

[mikey]

I always start with the least destructive method first. For me, that's WD-40 and a super-fine Scotchbrite pad. This almost always gets the oil and dirt off without scratching or altering machined surfaces. The white Scotchbrite is even less abrasive and works well also. If WD-40 fails, I go to rubbing alcohol and if that fails, I use acetone. One of these will get stubborn grease and grime off. Once it is clean, clean, clean, lube the way with some way oil and keep the lathe covered with a cotton cloth to discourage dust and rust.

 

[Birder]

I like using Windex on really grimey stuff. It cuts the grease fast, and leaves a clean surface. It will degrade paint, however. But it evaporates, and cleans well, without too many fumes. If the grime is thick I saturate the area first, then smear it around with a toothbrush (my wife's of course), then wipe the area off with paper towel. I try not to get it up into slides and hidden surfaces. For some reason bottles of the stuff are always around, and almost never empty. Good luck. Jim

 

[kvt]

I use both purple and orange cleaners to clean a lot of grime off, Then use acetone to do a final clean before applying a good coat of way oil over everything. One of the things I use to cover the lathes is an old cloth shower curtain not the plastic lined ones. They are large enough to cover the whole thing, they can be folded up out of the way easy and so far the way oil does not do anything to them. Just my 2 cents, Oh, on stubborn stuff I use the fine scotch bright pads with the cleaner.

 

[NortonDommi]

That is a very nice lathe you have and looks well cared for. My favorite for cleaning is Kerosene and Scothbrite for machined surfaces and Kero and some stiff scrubbing brushes and a cheap paint brush with the bristles cut down to make stiffer followed by a wipe down with a Kero dampened cloth followed by paper towels and then an oil. Don't worry about minor pits in cross slide as long as it is clean and oiled they won't hurt.
Redirect your drain for coolant into a bucket when you wash it down. A couple of advantages of Kero is cost, not toxic and feeds the paint. Old fellow around corner from me had a Ford Model T that he bought new and he wiped it all over with Kero after washing and drying. The paint was almost translucent.
Suggest you have a serious look at a QCTP before doing anything like a DRO.

 

[Chuck K]

I like to start with a razor blade. It will remove most of the grime and rust from ways. Follow up with Eds red and a scotchbrite pad. Wipe it down with mineral spirits, blow it dry and then oil it.

 

[Bob Korves]

Low spots in a surface do not cause any issues. High spots do. Leave any low spots alone, and any nice, undamaged surfaces as well. If there are burrs sticking up, use a FLAT fine grain stone and some kerosene, and rub the spot until the roughness goes away, but not one stroke more. You are trying to keep flat surfaces flat, and unworn surfaces unworn. I use kerosene or mineral spirits on a clean rag to clean up any grimy stuff. I was using generic Windex to clean up my scraping work, with good success, but some work I did on my tailstock recently turned to a bunch of light rust under the way oil I used to protect it within only a couple days after finishing the project, on the tailstock, on the lathe ways, and on the quill. I was lucky I found it quickly and got the rust off while it was easy to do so. I made sure I got it all off, and protected the parts again with way oil. It is staying good so far. I am now checking it twice a day for any more rusting.

 

[markba633csi]

Coleman fuel (naphtha) is my favorite indoor solvent, evaps fast and low odor. Sometimes WalMart has a cheaper generic brand
Mark

 

[Bob Korves]

Coleman fuel (naphtha) is my favorite indoor solvent, evaps fast and low odor. Sometimes WalMart has a cheaper generic brand
Mark

Thanks, Mark. Good idea. I have some that has been sitting around for about 40 years, time to use it up!