chop saw for metal cutting question

nobody mentioned that a bandsaw can be left to do the cut on it's own while you do other things, where as with a chopsaw you have to manually control the cut throughout.
 
If I were in a production shop, a bandsaw would be a must but I don't mind tending to a chopsaw. I tend to use a lot of scale scrap metal and things that would rip up a bandsaw's teeth. I joined the 4x6 group and heard lots of stories about how the HF ones need modifying, and people have stories about blades coming off etc
 
SE18 said:
If I were in a production shop, a bandsaw would be a must but I don't mind tending to a chopsaw. I tend to use a lot of scale scrap metal and things that would rip up a bandsaw's teeth. I joined the 4x6 group and heard lots of stories about how the HF ones need modifying, and people have stories about blades coming off etc
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scrap metal and things that would rip up the bandsaw teeth is a legit concern. the rest - just like any other HF product you have many faulty units out there, but then again you also have some gems. I had to return my first HF BS because of Quality control issues, the 2nd one is a peach - cuts true and straight, and works smoothly.

there are cases though where a cut disk is more suitable (hardened materials, rusty/questionable material where you wouldn't want the BS to mix with)
 
A small concern, but one to be conscious of nontheless. If you are chopping metal day after day, after a few days like this...if you need an mri (god forbid) you need to have an eye exray to verify no metal particles are in you eye before the mri is done and it rips out all the burrs.... Yuk! Again just a safety tip to be aware of.

Peace

Rich
 
I have both a chop and a band saw. The bandsaw is cooler operating, less noisey and safer from sparks, slag and the dangers of a rotating wheel. I have found that I can be fairly accurate with both machines and I use each machine regularly. I would place the chop saw on an expanded matel base and put it inside a cut out 55 gallon drum to contuin the sparks and dust that gets generated and call it good. The drum idea came from another site I frequent (Cant remember which, right now) and provides a back and bottom to contain all of that "stuff" very nicely. I looked like a small round grill with a very heavy duty grate to place the chop on and secure it against movement. It also allows you to build up a kind of support table for long or bulky material on either side of the cut. Just a thought to help keep the mess and hazards to a more manageable minimum.

Bob
 
Just another opinion, but if you're mainly in fab work, then the chop saw, or better yet, a cold saw, is probably a faster means to an end. In a mostly machine shop, bandsaw or real coldsaw (not the Makita slowspeed carbide type chop saw) is a better alternative. The little 4 x 6's have advantages and disadvantages, discussed ad nauseum all over the Net. But I'd bet most hobbyists have one. I'm not a hobbyist, but I have one. I have larger bandsaws also, but nonetheless, I use the 4 x 6 in a vertical position for some freehand thin metal sawing when I just need to gash something out. If I had to choose, it would be according to my main work, as I mentioned at the start.
 
I have used both too, and pretty much all the points have been covered here. I need a dust mask for sure and a backstop for all the metal dust when using the CS - not to mention hearing protection. I just started using the band saw about a year ago, and I'll never go back to the chop saw on anything over 2" - I like the clean quiet more accurate system now. Of course I'm not in production, so.......Old Age????
 
As a home hobbiest I have owned and used abrasive chop saws, HF style 4x6 bandsaw, and a portaband hand held band saw. By far the portaband wins hands down unless you are doing same length repetitive cuts of heavy bar or angle iron.

If you want to extensively rework the 4x6 it can be a good stationary saw. The original stands are the absolute pits. A bi metal blade is a must too.
 
I currently have several ways to cut metal: portaband ( Milwaukee but I hear the HF versions are decent for the $$), 7x12 bandsaw, abrasive chopsaw, power hacksaw, and two that haven't been covered yet - sawzall and oxy/acetylene torch. I have picked up everyone of them for less than 50 bucks each at yard sales or on Craigslist - you just have to be patient. They all have their pluses and minuses. The sawzall and portaband win on portability and out of position cuts. The 7x12 gets used the most. The torch has no size limit. The power hacksaw is just fun to watch but slow as molasses. Cuts very straight though. If you run a shaper and the power hacksaw at the same time you'll get hypnotized!:))
One thing that's sorta been mentioned but bears highlighting is this; none of the above (except for the torch) is worth a damn without a quality blade - that includes the chopsaw. If you want to go HF ( chopsaw, 4x6 bandsaw, or portaband) just make sure you throw away the blade that comes with it and buy a quality blade. It will turn a subpar machine into a decent saw.
Chrispy
 
richl said:
A small concern, but one to be conscious of nontheless. If you are chopping metal day after day, after a few days like this...if you need an mri (god forbid) you need to have an eye exray to verify no metal particles are in you eye before the mri is done and it rips out all the burrs.... Yuk! Again just a safety tip to be aware of.

Peace

Rich
Click to expand...

I use my abrasive chop saw every week on some type of project. I wear glasses and ear plugs. I just had an MRI on my shoulder and had X rays to verify no magnetic material in my eyes--all clear.

If you look at Northern Tool or on ebay, Kawasaki makes a 15amp 14" abrasive chop saw for around $140 with a THREE year warranty. That's my next purchase
 
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