Can this motor be wired for 240v?

The concern I have is that the tag only lists one voltage for the motor. If you look at the diagrams in the link I posted the 6 lead motor can be one voltage wye-delta or dual voltage wye-delta (high-low). Can you post a better picture of the whole tag?
 
Jim, it's labelled as 400v star, delta it'll be 230-240, thats how motors work, except in the USA.
If it was marked 400v delta, it would be 690 or so in star.

Dave H. (the other one)
 
Jim, it's labelled as 400v star, delta it'll be 230-240, thats how motors work, except in the USA.
If it was marked 400v delta, it would be 690 or so in star.

Dave H. (the other one)

Learn something new all the time in this forum. So they don't mark dual voltage motors with both voltages - just the one and you know the other?
 
You have to work out which is what - delta's always the lower voltage, star the higher, and there's the root 3 factor between them - it's easiest to picture it through a bit of basic geometry: a delta has the line voltage on the sides of the triangle, e.g. 240v between phases, if you then rearrange the three sides (the windings) in a 3-pointed star with 240 on each, measuring across the points will be 415v and at the centre where they join, the "star point", will stay at zero - this will (or can, it's not needed) be the Neutral.

Only time this goes out the window is with medium-voltage motors, usually in the 100HP class, where the 3-phase voltage can be anything from 660 - 720v to 3.3 KV - I don't play with those, they're scary!

This is how most of the world distributes power, 220 - 240v (now "harmonised" to 230v +/- 10% in Europe) phase to neutral, 380 - 415v (400v harmonised)phase to phase. The phase to neutral service is in most homes, where it's normally only one phase and limited to 80 - 100 A, 3-phase for commercial and industrial up to about 400A, then for even more you get your own substation transformer down from 3.3 KV or 11 KV to 415/720v, that'll supply quite a bit of power...

Dave H. (the other one)
 
I drew it out before my last post to see how it works and got what you said. I've connected some European motors but it was so long ago I don't remember how it was done. I do remember they were three voltages something like 240 - 480 -560. Some of the electricians on the job were used to connecting for high voltage on US motors and didn't notice high was 560. Needless to say, but those didn't run.
 
I have had some success!
I really can't make sense of the manual and from what I've read on forums, the set ups are pretty similar. Can anyone give me some simple instructions to see if this will work at full power so I can start on actually building the frame for this motor mount set up?
 
I don't know that particular VFD, but *some* parameters you need are@

The most important:
Base frequency 50Hz (this is the point where it'll start delivering full voltage, 240v, to the motor - up to this it'll scale it by the frequency as a fraction to avoid burning the motor out, above it remains at the full 240v - 50Hz for European/rest-of-the-world motors, 60 for American);
Max current (may be labelled I max or similar) - you need to apply the root3 factor to the motor plate full load amps, so 3.3 (on the plate) x 1.73 = 5.7 Amps. there may be a parameter for overload current, which it'll deliver for short bursts e.g. initial start-up, usually the max is 1.5 x max current;
Motor cos or power factor - usually about 0.7 works.

the ones that govern speed:
Min frequency however low you want to go, motor speed scales down with this so e.g. 10Hz will give a fifth the marked RPM (beware of overheating!);
Max frequency - similar to above! I wouldn't go above 100Hz (double rated speed) in the interest of bearings and the motor rotor, centrifugal force etc.!

Good luck, and have fun playing!

Dave H. (the other one)
 
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Awesome Dave, setting the 50hz in pd004 was the key, up and running full power now. I'll go through some other settings so as to not burn it out amongst other things when I get it built. Thanks alot for all your help guys. This forum has been nothing but essential for me while trying to learn.

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If you're going to be running at low frequencies / motor speeds, something like this:

motor cooling scaled.jpg

will keep it cool: Papst 10" fan, cut off and "reworked" bottom of a chemical drum, foam gasket - all anchored to the mounting bolts for the grille over the (open frame) motor air intake - you may want something smaller, the Holbrook's motor is the size of a dustbin!

Dave H. (the other one)
 
If you're going to be running at low frequencies / motor speeds, something like this:

View attachment 243585

will keep it cool: Papst 10" fan, cut off and "reworked" bottom of a chemical drum, foam gasket - all anchored to the mounting bolts for the grille over the (open frame) motor air intake - you may want something smaller, the Holbrook's motor is the size of a dustbin!

Dave H. (the other one)
I shouldn't need on for this grinder build due to the speeds being reasonably high for all the grinding I'll need but will probably need one for the slow rotary welding table coming up next.

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