Can I...(compatibility)

cdhknives

cdhknives

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I have a badly worn 10F/QC-54. The original user used it for valve grinding. The lead screw threads at one end are round. There is measurable wear on the bed. Tumbler gears are little more than needles. Backlash is over a half turn in both split nut and cross slide. I put new spindle bearings in as the races were grooved and whining very loudly, a Phase II toolholder, and new cross slide. It all runs...but... Just can't get the taper out. Too much wear at the headstock. After all the work I put into it I still struggle just to turn a decent thread.

My Dad has a Early 30's era change gear Babbit bearing 10D that has no shims left to tighten the spindle. It is otherwise mint. His bed is shorter, probably a 10x24 to my 10x36.

Can I combine the 2 machines to make one solid unit? Dad's 10D bed and gears with my headstock and QC gearbox and cut down the worn leadscrew to clean(er) threads? Is the spindle height over the bed the same or does the tailstock also have to move over?

Or am I better off parting it out and buying a new machine? I have a pile of accessories...just really frustrated right now.
 
Buy a new one. You're talking about an 80 year old machine.
 
Sell it on craigs list and get something else...
 
Many Atlas lathe have been cobbled together over the years. Make a good one with both and sell off the extra parts. Many times it is worth more in parts than as an assembly!
Pierre
 
If the bedways are the same width and thickness then by all means make one good one out of the two
Mark
 
you certainly can make one lathe from 2.
you'll need to take some measurements after you are done and may need to realign the headstock.
but if you are willing, the work can be done!!!
 
Mainly questioning if the basic dims are compatible. Bed width and thickness. Spindle height. Etc. Shims are fine, but that will only go so far. Basically I want to swap his bed and maybe his ACME nuts to replace mine. It will be a bit of a chore to get to his, so if it's no deal then I won't try.
 
In the files, there are assembly drawings with part numbers. Pretty sure the bed is the same with maybe a couple extra holes for the QC mounting and halfnuts are definitely the same. I had 10D that had 10F leadscrew parts. I purchased carriage parts over a couple years from 10F lathes to convert to power crossfeed, and installed it on my 10D. The answer in this story is the beds have the same dimensions across and in thickness. Thickness in my case was .375”. I hope this answers the question.
Pierre
 
As Pierre says, check part numbers in the 10F parts manual. Any part number that begins with "10F-" will not interchange. Any that begins with "10D-" back through "9-" will. The bed is a special case. You will have to either drill and tap new leg mounting holes or use the 10D legs, I am not certain about the two holes for the two headstock locator screws. But if they do not match up, with the left leg removed, you can drill new ones on a drill press. Their purpose is to position the headstock along the bed, not to true it up so that the spindle is parallel to the bed ways. If the 10D bed is shorter, it is possible that you may be able to cut the lead screw off and get rid of the worst of the screw thread wear.

The gears are another matter. You can use them but you will have to make two 0.062" thick double-keyed spacers for each gear position on the bandjo. Or not try to use any of the 10F gears. Reason is that the the "A" suffix gears have a 1/2" wide hub whereas the earlier ones have a 3/8" wide one. With the spacers installed for any early gears, you can mix them on the banjo with the later ones. You will have to buy a new 10-101-16A Compound Gear, as there isn't one on the 10D. Along with the 10-47 Stud. In the Reverse Box, some parts are the same and some aren't. You will have to re-use the 9-52A Stub. I'm not sure about the other three parts with suffix letters.
 
Check the spindle on the Babbitt headstock, might just be the spindle that needs repair or replacement
 
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