Can a Rem M7 barrel be turned down to fit a Win M70?

cdhknives

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So I am looking to replace the barrel on a Win M70 Classic. I see this barrel, well priced for a beginner that is likely to screw it up.


In looking at the specs, the M70 is a 1"-16 TPI, the M7 is a 1-1/16"-16TPI. I found this article, but they cut the threads off and set the barrel back. Why? Couldn't you rethread the original with only minor setback? The M7 barrel probably doesn't have enough meat to set back that far and still have a safe chamber wall for the skinny M7 barrel...???


Am I missing something (besides the whole process of learning to chamber a barrel...got that somewhat covered)...???
 
Most people wouldn’t take the time to skim the tops of the threads off and then continue cutting the existing threads to fit the smaller M70 dimensions.
 
I hear you, but the skinny profile of the Model 7 barrel may not have enough diameter forward of the chamber to set back that much.
 
True. Still would be a good thing to try it and see what problems you may or may not run into.
 
You're going to run short of a full setback on that one. $80 is a good price for a barrel, but I would consider getting a pre-contoured blank for a few dollars more and fitting it instead. The featherweight hunter profile does not leave much room for future adjustments once done.
 
Unfortunatally a short chambered profiled blank (from a good manufacturer) is more like $200++ more. With the work shortage (in my industry) that is COVID society today I have lots more time than $$$ for fun projects! I have been considering a ready to install blank, but using this one would also allow me to size the threads for a proper fit, not trust that the threads on my receiver are nominal. I am not scared to pick up and continue the threads. Since the shoulder is placed for a slip on recoil lug that barrel is probably already short chambered for a Win M70 too. Soooo tempting...
 
I fixed a vise that had 1&1/4"-5 acme threads by turning the shaft down to 1" - 5 Acme. Was not hard at all. I would think doing the same on a barrel would be much simpler thee shortning the barrel, and cutting threads down some. If you do mess it up, the next step is to cut down the barrel, and make threads. Seems foolish to me to not try cutting the threads first.
 
What you are really concerned with in shortening the barrel is the hoop strength of the barrel. There are formula's for this. Savage barrels are 1.055 OD at the chamber end. Comparing your barrel OD to the savage OD might give you an indication if your barrel would be strong enough after you cut it down. This is a decision only you can make.
 
I've done it,.. it will work. The biggest dilemma you might run into is that the Remington barrel probably has a crooked chamber. The chambers are hammer forged in with the rifling.
 
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