[Newbie] Buying Used Micrometers?

Cavediver

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I'm beginning to assemble a set of measuring tools for use with my first metal lathe. As I'm not working for NASA, and my subcontracting days for them are probably a ways off, I figured I could get by with some used mics purchased on Ebay. The problem with that theory is that the choices are almost overwhelming.


Are there any micrometer models I should actively look for or stay away from?

I'm planning on sticking to some of the brand names I know: Starrett, B&S, Lufkin, Mitutoyo, etc.
Sizes I want to look for run from 0-3", maybe 4" if I find a good deal.
It sounds like ratcheting mics are better for the beginner, assuming they're in good shape?
What else do I need to know?

I know this is a really broad question and could be met with pages of discussion. I really just need a starting point, and maybe some model recommendations to buy or avoid.

Thanks!
 
I have trouble buying things like micrometers off Ebay, can't look them over closely enough and feel how they work. I have bought mics off Craigslist, and that worked out very well. I got a nice set of Mitutoyo mics, Japanese made, 1-5", in nice condition with the wrenches and standards for $50. They belonged to a grinder hand.
 
i collect antique/vintage JT Slocomb mics and have for many years. as a matter of fact the very first 0-1" mic i ever bought was a vintage Slocomb.
they are very functional and well made instruments, even in antiquity
i have restored and trued up about half a dozen, all said and done. they can be brought back to life as long as they are not broken.
Starrett is another quality brand, as is Mitutoyo
I also like Scheer and collect their micrometers as well.
i have no issue with buying mics and the like on ebay.
i go into the deal knowing that i may receive the magic beans, instead of the golden goose . i buy accordingly.
if you have or get a set of standards, you can calibrate your mics to assure their accuracy.

as a suggestion, get a pair of inexpensive 6" dial calipers for use when absolute precision is not necessary,
then use a calibrated mic when the job demands.

i don't work for NASA either, but if you shop around sometimes you can get good stuff priced well,
but you may need a little luck or patience, i wish you both:)
 
only buy ones with carbide end unless you know how to lapp the steel ones in

I've owned mics for 40+ years now and never had to re- lap them . Treat your tools as though they provide your paycheck . (even if they don't) With a small amount of proper maintenance , either carbide tipped or non-carbide faces will last more than a lifetime . If you're gong to be working down into millionths or so , you may look for some snap gages or dial mics , otherwise any mic will do for general shop work .Your preference is what matters .

2 mics . 4-5s . Starrett with HSS , Mititoyo with carbide faces . I have Fowlers that are bright blue and also B&Ss . They all do the same thing , measure within a tenth . Some are friction stop , some are ratchet . I personally don't use either but go by " my feel " . Some have solid beams , others don't . One choice that would sway me one way or the other is the spindle lock . You can see the difference , one being a lever one being a knurled ring . If all mine had to disappear for one reason or the other ?? Id'e save the Starrett's being it's my personal favorite and consider them as best in breed .

As far as buying used mics , I like the Toyota slogan .

" A good used car starts with a good new car "

Bottom line .......buy what you are comfortable with as far as price and affordability . Your first vehicle wasn't a Jag . You will always be able to trade up as you wish to do so .

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Whenever I have a question about precision instruments I go to the Long Island Indicator Service site and see what Rene has to say first. It is an outstanding source of information. http://longislandindicator.com/#M

I have come to prefer Swiss instruments like Etalon, Brown and Sharpe and Helios. Mitutoyo also makes outstanding mics. The older Starrett mics are okay, too. I own all of these brands and the best are the Etalons in terms of accuracy and repeatability in my hands.

As far as ebay is concerned, you can't judge a book by its cover but a mic is a precision instrument. If it looks like its spent its life sitting in swarf and the finish is all beat up or it has any signs of rust then that says something about the guy who owned it and, by extension, how he took care of it. My approach has been to learn which make and model I want and then patiently wait until I find one that looks like the previous owner cared for the tool well. Don't be afraid to buy stuff from ebay. Most sellers will work with you if the item is not as expected and Paypal, if you use it, will often pay for return shipping.

As far as ratcheting vs friction, its a preference you'll develop over time. I have both and prefer the friction type - when it juuust slips I lock the spindle and read it. This is the most repeatable method for me but I'm sure others have their own preference.
 
I have many mics, of all kinds and manufacture, I recently picked up two mics on eBay, a unimic by starrett and a 0-1 mic by the welch scientific company, the 0-1 micrometer is one of the smoothest operating mics I own . it just seems to roll to the size effortlessly , the only thing I don't like is no lock on the thimble . But I'm very surprised by the quality of this mic. if I found them on a sale I wouldn't be afraid to spend my money on them.
 
I have been in the metrology world for decades. Mircometers are nice and have specific functions and operandi. I have in my shop all the mikes needed. But you know what. When I need to OD/ID measure something or layout something. I usually grab my Starrett dial calipers. And NOT the Starrett one that is now made overseas! I find my Starrett 6” dial calipers the most handy of all my measuring tools. Maybe think of first getting a dial caliper…Dave.
 
If their still with their original box that's always a good sign :)

I got a small set of "new old stock" gauge blocks which came in handy for checking them easily along their range. So long as their error is linear along the range you can adjust them with the little peg spanner.

I try to only buy ones that are heavily used if their very cheep and it's sort of worth the risk.

The best second hand one I have came with its box, spanner and anti rust paper still in their.

The worst mic I have is a cheep Chinese one I bought new :) It did ok but the lock lever fell off, the thread is a bit sloppy. I have a fairly heavily used starret 1-2 from the 30's - 50's and thats in better condition.

I think the big ones are at more risk of getting dropped or bashed out of square.

Some mic's don't do 10th's

Sometimes it pot luck as with any second hand purchase. If it's described as "as new" or "new old stock" and it look's good that's always nice but some times people go mad with bidding.

Stuart
 
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