Bridgeport motor ID

LEEQ

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I got what looked like a mill. Turns out it was a basket case. One of the things I'm up against is identifying the motor so that I can get the right vfd. It has 9 wires, and no data plate. The pairs appear to be 1,7 - 2,8 - 3,9 - 4,5,6. I'm pretty sure it's wye wound. It was wired with a 3/4 to 1&1/2 HP 220v static converter. I need help finding out more precisely what it is though. The motor data plate would rock. Does anyone recognize this motor or have any resources that might help figure it out? Can it be tested to reveal this info?

bport.jpg
 
I'M NOT AN ELECTRICIAN. I'M NOT AN ELECTRICIAN. I'M NOT AN ELECTRICIAN. I'M NOT AN ELECTRICIAN.

according to my late grandfather's "electrical Engineering Pocket Handbook" (and he was an electrician) your wiring description fits for a "star connected" 3-phase 2-speed motor. The wire pairings you have is for low speed. High speed would be 1 by itself, 2 by itself, 3 by itself and 4/7 5/8 6/9.

My "new" bridgeport-clone motor looks like yours and is also a 2-speed.

A static converter runs the motor at reduced power - akin to kicking the mule every 3rd step instead of every single step. If it ran on a 3/4-1.5hp static converter then it will run on a 1.5hp vfd - and run better, stronger, happier.

And line 1 would be the 1/7, line 2 the 2/8 and line 3 the 3/9.

Hope that helps a little bit.

I'M NOT AN ELECTRICIAN. I'M NOT AN ELECTRICIAN. I'M NOT AN ELECTRICIAN. I'M NOT AN ELECTRICIAN.
 
I got what looked like a mill. Turns out it was a basket case. One of the things I'm up against is identifying the motor so that I can get the right vfd. It has 9 wires, and no data plate. The pairs appear to be 1,7 - 2,8 - 3,9 - 4,5,6. I'm pretty sure it's wye wound. It was wired with a 3/4 to 1&1/2 HP 220v static converter. I need help finding out more precisely what it is though. The motor data plate would rock. Does anyone recognize this motor or have any resources that might help figure it out? Can it be tested to reveal this info?
I'm hoping that someone can recognize it, but you can come pretty close by following a few steps:

Measure shaft diameter = helps get the NEMA frame number, for instance 7/8" shaft would likely be a 143 or 145 frame. Nema frame info here: http://www.iprocessmart.com/techsmart/basictraining.pdf down around page 20

Open it up, and count the windings. Likely to be a four pole motor, nominal 1800 RPM (likely about 1725-1740 under load)

You already know its a 220/440 Wye wound motor.

IF it runs, AND you have three phase available (still have the phase converter?), run it and measure the running current. Would be more meaningful if it could be put under load, but even unloaded will be useful.

Determine the type of motor enclosure - Yours looks to be totally enclosed non vented TENV or totally enclosed fan cooled TEFC

Go to this website http://www.centuryelectricmotor.com/Applications/AdvanceCatalogSearch.aspx#ACMotors and enter the information that you have. It should come up with something close.

You "might" have to measure the "stack" length (the length of the metal stuff, from front to back, that the windings are wound around.) to chose between a couple that are close. The more information that you can enter in the form, the better the odds of accurate info.

Its a place to start anyway. Good luck.

Edit: I like Joe's answer, just use a 1.5 HP VFD, should work fine.

Ruben
 
I'm hoping to find all the data I might need to properly set up the somewhat pricey vfd. Also to pick out the right one.
 
I'm hoping that someone can recognize it, but you can come pretty close by following a few steps:

Measure shaft diameter = helps get the NEMA frame number, for instance 7/8" shaft would likely be a 143 or 145 frame. Nema frame info here: http://www.iprocessmart.com/techsmart/basictraining.pdf down around page 20

Open it up, and count the windings. Likely to be a four pole motor, nominal 1800 RPM (likely about 1725-1740 under load)

You already know its a 220/440 Wye wound motor.

IF it runs, AND you have three phase available (still have the phase converter?), run it and measure the running current. Would be more meaningful if it could be put under load, but even unloaded will be useful.

Determine the type of motor enclosure - Yours looks to be totally enclosed non vented TENV or totally enclosed fan cooled TEFC

Go to this website http://www.centuryelectricmotor.com/Applications/AdvanceCatalogSearch.aspx#ACMotors and enter the information that you have. It should come up with something close.

You "might" have to measure the "stack" length (the length of the metal stuff, from front to back, that the windings are wound around.) to chose between a couple that are close. The more information that you can enter in the form, the better the odds of accurate info.

Its a place to start anyway. Good luck.

Edit: I like Joe's answer, just use a 1.5 HP VFD, should work fine.

Ruben

Oh, yousnuck that one in on me. might take a minute to go through that stuff. One question now though, what hp do I tell this 1.5hp rated vfd it is running?
 
I got what looked like a mill. Turns out it was a basket case. One of the things I'm up against is identifying the motor so that I can get the right vfd. It has 9 wires, and no data plate. The pairs appear to be 1,7 - 2,8 - 3,9 - 4,5,6. I'm pretty sure it's wye wound. It was wired with a 3/4 to 1&1/2 HP 220v static converter. I need help finding out more precisely what it is though. The motor data plate would rock. Does anyone recognize this motor or have any resources that might help figure it out? Can it be tested to reveal this info?

the way the motor is wired is in the Y configuration.
we also know that the motor ran on 220v not exceeding 1.5 hp
now for sake of argument, we are gonna assume the motor operates under 1800 rpm's otherwise you would have enormous pullies.
220v 1.5hp 3 phase charts out to 5.2 amps @ 230 volts full load current,round up(for safety) making 6.0 amps (per leg) on 220v full load current.
so if you were to buy a VFD,(i would want to over rate the VFD)
i would suggest getting one that runs off single phase 220 for 220 3 phase output with an 6.0 amp rating between legs to be safe a 2hp unit would power the motor nicely without any ill effects, plus have the safety of not using the VFD to full capacity everytime you turn it on.
the rest of the data on the plate would be nice but is not necessary to operate the motor through a VFD, providing the VFD and motor is wired in correctly.
i'll do some checking and see if i can help out more with a dataplate.

mike:))
 
Values found while running on sfc are useful? What do I set the meter for and what do I probe to get these values under load? Oh, and as Joe said it may be a clone's motor. As such, it probably speaks chinese. Does this even matter?
 
the way the motor is wired is in the Y configuration.
we also know that the motor ran on 220v not exceeding 1.5 hp
now for sake of argument, we are gonna assume the motor operates under 1700 rpm's otherwise you would have enormous pullies.
220v 1.5hp 3 phase charts out to 5.2 amps @ 230 volts full load current,round up(for safety) making 6.0 amps (per leg) on 220v full load current.
so if you were to buy a VFD,(i would want to over rate the VFD)
i would suggest getting one that runs off single phase 220 for 220 3 phase output with an 6.0 amp rating between legs to be safe a 2hp unit would power the motor nicely without any ill effects, plus have the safety of not using the VFD to full capacity everytime you turn it on.
the rest of the data on the plate would be nice but is not necessary to operate the motor through a VFD, providing the VFD and motor is wired in correctly.
i'll do some checking and see i i can help out more with a dataplate.

mike:))

Do the vfd's ask abt amps drawn and hp? Am I worrying over nothing?
 
Do the vfd's ask abt amps drawn and hp? Am I worrying over nothing?

i'm not aware of a VFD that asks for those inputs, but the possibility exists.
i wouldn't worry too much about it.
Just an FYI people do run Bridgeports on 1.5 hp VFD's, if price is a concern it will work don't worry.
you'll have to excuse me, i build systems for grocery stores and meat processing facilities, bigger is better for me, price usually isn't my first concern.i try to overkill everything i touch, to reduce problems for me later on.
mike:))
 
You have to size the vfd to the horsepower of the motor. (Actually when you go to the vfd sites, they suggest basing it off of the amps but using the hp works fine.).

If a 1.5hp static converter was able to make the motor go hmmmmmmmmmmmmm and a static converter doesn't run a motor on full power, then a 1.5hp vfd will make it go purrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

The rest of the stuff is done automatically by the magic smoke in the vfd. All you do is plug those three paired wires into three connections on the vfd, plug the vfd into the wall and turn it on. If the motor turns backwards you'll just flip any two of the connections on the VFD and it will be running right. Pretty much plug and play unless you cross wires that shouldn't in which case it will scream, click, make noises like a dying camel and then turn itself off.

When you go shopping for a 1.5hp you will be presented with different options based on power in and power out. You already know you're looking for the 220V 3-phase out, you just have to decide what you want for power in. They are available in 220V 1-phase in (which is what I used because I had plenty of 220V outlets available) or in 110/220V power-in. The second option is a bit pricier but if you don't have a 220V outlet available then that's what you might be stuck with if you don't want to put one in.

I've bought two so far - one for the lathe, one for the mill - both from Temco: http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/product_selection.html?p=CFW10_Product_Selection

For the mill I ended up going with the 2hp model of the CFW10 series down near the bottom of the list - it's currently $227.81 with shipping. If you need a reverse button (I didn't) then you'd have to step up to the CFW08 series farther down the page and those prices go up a bit.
 
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