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Bridgeport Model "e" Shaper Or Slotting Attachment?

GarageGuy

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#1
I have a chance to buy one of these at a reasonable price (I think). Supposedly these are good for broaching keyways and cutting splines. I've been doing a little research, and they use special cutting tools that are rather expensive. The cutting tools look a lot like those cheap Chinese cemented carbide boring bars that come in sets of 9 pieces for about $30. I was wondering if regrinding one for this purpose is practical. I read that as a "shaper", this is a very light duty machine. Does anyone here have any experience with this attachment? In your opinion, what is a reasonable price?

Thanks!

GG
 

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Dabbler

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#2
If you pass it up, I might be interested, but I don't have any experience with it, just think it'd be cool.
 

Dabbler

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#4
the ebay prices here seem to be around $1400 for one in working order, 3 phase 220V.
 

GarageGuy

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#5
There is a local guy that has one for sale with tooling for $1200, but I can buy one from someone else for less than half that. No tooling, though.

GG
 

Dabbler

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#6
that's a deal - the half price one. I assume the ways are good on the 'deal'? Scraping them would be a pain for you
 

GarageGuy

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#7
Most of these have very little wear because they didn't get used very much. I'm sure there are exceptions, though.

GG
 

Dabbler

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#8
the cheap one is a deal I'd pounce on and sliver solder my own tooling. My mill is a clone so adapting it to mine would be a big job...
 

chips&more

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#9
I found one on CL about 15 years ago for $200. Mounted it on the ram in the back and have never used it. Found a complete set of cutters for 10 bucks at the flea market! Those I use! I mount the cutter in the quill and oscillate the quill with its handle. Yes, I know it’s not the best on the quill feed mechanism, but I take it slow and my projects are small scale. Have not noticed any problem/damage with the quill feed. And I lock the spindle with a bungee cord attached to the spindle brake. Still get a tad of radial play from the spline inside the quill/spindle assembly, but doesn’t seem to be a problem?…Dave
 
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Dabbler

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#10
I've done the quill approach before, and it works great in softer materials. For steels, esp. tool steels, the quill approach can get old very fast. Chips&more if you were thinking of selling someday..... (just had to ask).
 

GarageGuy

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#11
An update on the shaper head. I got it! I sold a bunch of other equipment for the owner, and basically got it as a "commission" for my time spent. $$ invested = none!

I brought it home and mounted it to my mill. It has an on/off switch on the motor, so I wired it directly to my phase converter. It runs very smoothly and quietly. I only ran it for a minute, because I want to change the crankcase oil before putting it to work. Looks like it uses way oil in the oiler cup, and 600w gear oil in the crank case. I'll have to look for some 600w. I don't know how common that is.

I looked around on-line, and found a small 9 page user manual for it. It doesn't explain much, but that's how I found out what kind of oil to use in it.

It didn't come with any tooling, but I tried putting a small 5/8" shank cemented carbide boring bar in the clapper box, and it fits perfectly. I'll need to mill or grind a flat on the shank so the set screw can retain it properly, then grind the carbide tip to suit my needs. As I mentioned above, the cheap Chinese 5/8" shank cemented carbide boring bars are widely available, and easily altered. We'll see how they actually work once I get it fully operational. I hope they aren't too brittle. I've had limited success using them for their intended purpose. I could also make HSS cutting tools for it, so I'm not too worried about tooling. The OEM tooling on eBay is selling for ridiculous money!

GG

20170124_201038.jpg 20170124_201112.jpg
 
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mark_f

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#12
I have used one of those in the past. 40 years ago , it was state of the art for cutting splines using a rotary table. Was also good to broach keyways. I always ground tools from HSS. They work well and can be handy.
 

Silverbullet

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#13
They really aren't used as much as they should be . I'd buy one if the cost was what I could afford. Cutting slots on angles can be a great addition to the shop. They can be used to cut gears , cheaper then a cutter to do a gear. Couple arbors made up for tooling , high speed tool bits work well in them. Last time I used one was back in 1973 , during my vocational school years. But Mr Montgomery , our tool & die teacher had us learn as much as we could. There wasn't a better man born. Still see and remember most of his teaching in my mind . But he taught us how to use every machine in the shop , including a grinding room and heat treatment room . We had a stockroom better then many shops I worked in before my disability.
YUPP I'd loved to have one in my humble tiny shop.
 

Quattroclick

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#14
Lucked out and got one mounted to the Bridgeport I just bought, along with the tooling. I have some projects I really want to try it out on.
 

skrewd

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#15
First time poster. I just bought a Bridgeport clone this week, a g0796 and the model e fit like a glove, no mods bolted right in. Had to paint mine white to match. Would love better youtube videos on its use; maybe in the future but I have found the 10 factory bits and their descriptions. You have 30, 45, 60, 90, and 120 degree corner cuts standard along with 3 lengths of boring bars.
 

GarageGuy

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#16
I'd buy one if the cost was what I could afford.
That's pretty much where I'm at, too. There is another one available locally on Craigslist for $1000, but that's a bit much for a hobby budget. You could buy a lot of other tooling for that much money.

I have found the 10 factory bits and their descriptions. You have 30, 45, 60, 90, and 120 degree corner cuts standard along with 3 lengths of boring bars.
I was looking at those on eBay. They run from $400 to $600 for a full set, or $60+ each individually. You would almost have to be a collector to pay those kind of prices. I don't see why I couldn't make a couple cutting tools for it. They don't seem that complicated.

My primary use for it will be for cutting internal keyways on some pulleys I plan to make.

GG
 

skrewd

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#17
Yes you could easily. They have a shallow concave dome milled on the bottom first, then the appropriate profile ground from the sides. No kids, no alimony, no debt so I bought them because you can't take it with you. The boring bar is the first item to make. Straight core and a 15 degree angle core on the other end. You can grind the HSS insert to any shape you want. I bought 5/8 drill rod to braze on pre profiled tips perfect for small gears.
 

ewkearns

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#19
Awesome find! I have a lot of quality time on those, slotting interrupted threads in Bofors breech blocks and rings.....

PS
Tooling need not be expensive..... just use HSS blanks.
 

GarageGuy

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#20
Tooling need not be expensive..... just use HSS blanks.
That's what I was thinking. It doesn't look like it should be complicated. I never throw out any broken HSS tooling (taps, drills, end mills, etc) because sometimes they can be re-ground for a particular cutting tool need.

Finding the 600w oil (steam cylinder oil) for the crank case is proving to be somewhat of a challenge. The smallest quantity available seems to be a 5 gallon bucket for $112 plus shipping, or a quart bottle on eBay for $40. Even H&W in Fort Wayne had to ask their oil supplier what to use in place of 600w. I was very surprised by that. Before I pay a ridiculous price for a quart of oil, I may talk to some of the steam railroad and steam traction engine guys. They might be likely to part with a quart at a more reasonable price.

GG
 

ewkearns

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#21
600W wasn't the weight of the oil, it was a marketing ploy by Ford Motor Company. I'm betting this stuff will do everything you need....
 

Quattroclick

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#22
I got a shaper head with my mill. Neither has been powered up yet, but I am quite sure that the oil in the shaper gearbox was placed there by Bridgeport in 1965. So, following with interest.

Found this, which might help. Lubriplate no. 8 is recommended as a replacement for 600w, and it is 140 wt., sounds reasonable.


https://www.lubriplate.com/PDFs/PDS/4_2-No-4_and_No-8.aspx
 

Jason Annen

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#23
600 weight steam oil equals 140 weight gear lube. I researched this for my VN mill, and found the info online somewhere.

Jason
 

GarageGuy

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#25
These products don't have EP (extreme pressure) additives that break down brass bushings/parts? You run them in your Bridgeport E heads?

GG
 

skrewd

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#26
Do you also use it in the side oiler cup? I have the operators manual on file but am having trouble finding it.

edit mobil vactra a way oil for side oiler, is southbend oil ok?
 
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GarageGuy

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#27
The side oiler cup uses way oil from what I've read. That lubricates the ram. The 600w is for the worm gear and crank case. I found a Lubriplate dealer not far from me, and will call them tomorrow to see if I can buy a quart of #8. Everyplace online lists it for sale by the case for $165 to $180. That is several lifetimes worth for one machine.

GG
 

skrewd

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#28
Just found manual, side oiler uses mobile vactra like southbend way oil, thick,sticky
 

GarageGuy

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#29
Good news! Today I contacted Motion Industries in Elgin, IL. They are listed as a Lubriplate dealer in our area. They didn't have Lubriplate No 8 in stock, but they ordered me a quart from Chicago, and said it should be here on Monday. Cost is about $17. Thank you to Quattroclick for the pointer to Lubriplate No 8! :grin:

GG
 
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