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Bridgeport Leadscrew Problem....?
- Thread starter EmilioG
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2014
- Messages
- 167
The easy way I found to remove the table was to use a heavy work bench. My mill table is a 10x50 and I was able to remove it by myself.
What I did was cranked the table all the way to the right. Removed the cranks & lead screw. Place the bench (steel top works great) next to the mill underneath the mill table. Lower the Z axis until the table was just touching or about to touch the bench top. Finish pulling the table onto the bench. The bench I used had casters on it so that made it super easy.
Putting the table back on was just the opposite. I did need help aligning the table and pushing it on at the same time. What is nice is the table is already on the bench so you can flip it over to work on. I did not remove the knee.
I had to replace a couple oil feed line and unplug several port.
What I did was cranked the table all the way to the right. Removed the cranks & lead screw. Place the bench (steel top works great) next to the mill underneath the mill table. Lower the Z axis until the table was just touching or about to touch the bench top. Finish pulling the table onto the bench. The bench I used had casters on it so that made it super easy.
Putting the table back on was just the opposite. I did need help aligning the table and pushing it on at the same time. What is nice is the table is already on the bench so you can flip it over to work on. I did not remove the knee.
I had to replace a couple oil feed line and unplug several port.
I just replaced the lead screw nut in my '43 M head Bridgeport. Its not at all difficult. You actually don't need to full remove the table. Atleast I didn't have to but I did for the sake of cleaning it all. You can remove the right side of the x axis handles, and you may need a puller, to pull the handles. Then do the same for the left side and then thread the leadscrew out, and then carefully slide the table back to the right and that should give you reach to the cross slide area of the leadscrew... Photos...
Ad for the adjustment of the split nut. There should be that screw there... If the nut is split, and you have a gap cut as well, as you tighten the screw in the side of the nut retainer it will apply pressure on the threads between the two nuts and this closes your BL. Its really simple and works. The new nuts from H&W are split already, at least mine were.
You can also remove the bolts in the front of the Y axis and thread it out and then remove the entire cross feed nut assembly and replace both while you are in there.
Ad for the adjustment of the split nut. There should be that screw there... If the nut is split, and you have a gap cut as well, as you tighten the screw in the side of the nut retainer it will apply pressure on the threads between the two nuts and this closes your BL. Its really simple and works. The new nuts from H&W are split already, at least mine were.
You can also remove the bolts in the front of the Y axis and thread it out and then remove the entire cross feed nut assembly and replace both while you are in there.
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2014
- Messages
- 167
There are oil guns out there but are pricey. Common practice is to convert a grease gun to an oil gun. Google it. Only problem is you have to hold the gun upside-down for it to work. There was a magazine article (HSM??) the show a foot pump version . Looked cool.
