Brass

dlane said:
Next time I'll try a smaller end mill and two passes , or a four flute at higher speed . These casings have a taper to them so the collet try's to hold on the front , I might try to taper a e collet for them also
These were kind of a rush job I cleaned them up with a file.
Thanks
Derrick
The car isn't registered or finished yet
It dose run
Click to expand...

I going to say touch them up with a small jeweler flat file. I never looked messed with cartridges so I didn't know they were tapered. Makes sense they would be for faster chamber loading and ejecting.

My uncle make lighters out of brass and cartridges for officers during WWII
 
Mostly make 50bmg wrighting pens out of them, also all 30 cal casings. They do sell good on line and at shows
Thanks
Derrick
 
Maybe another post for the Dodge (work-in-progress).
 
The machine and the endmill are flexing, when the tool passes through the end of the cut, the tool is unloaded on the leading edge, it springs back and leaves an artifact in its wake which is what you are seeing (one side climb milling the other side is conventional milling) Either slow the feed down too a crawl or do 2 passes, rough and finish.

It only takes .0005" difference to make a line visible to the human eye on the part.
 
The manual 5c collet closer I used has a hard plastic/rubber collar that closes the collet, I have a feeling that is what caused movment or the leather , any one take apart a collet closer like this one and remove plastic collar ? Or are they not removable. image.jpg It would be nice to have it solid sometimes, or should I find one that has no plastic ?. Is this what is called a floating 5c collet closer?. Also might try a tapered e5c collet with the shell casing taper, what you think?.
Thanks
Derrick
 
Derrick,

I have seen several different types, but never one with a plastic collar.
I would be suspicious about it too, it seems counter-productive to a tight grip.

-brino
 
dlane said:
. Also might try a tapered e5c collet with the shell casing taper, what you think?.
Thanks
Derrick
Click to expand...
Derick,

How about this? Purchase an emergency (machinable) 5C collet; they're available in steel, brass, and nylon. Machine a taper to match your case. You will have good fit over the entire case wall rather than a ring contact.

Bob
 
I'be never seen one with a plastic bushing either. I can't believe it would hold well.
 
I'm not so sure that the plastic bushing is the problem. In use, the bushing is in compression evenly all the way around as it forces the collet to close. It also allows the collet to release easily without sticking when you open the closer. Granted, I've never seen one with a plastic bushing either, but there are a lot of things in this world that I've not seen. I would be more concerned about the grip that a straight standard collet will make on a tapered casing. It will allow the casing to rock a bit when pressure is applied. I would think the best solution would be to use an e-collet and bore the inside, tapered to match the taper on the casings. That would provide the sturdy grip and hold that is required. Additionally, using a smaller end mill and making a rough pass followed by two finish passes, one on each side, would be the way to go.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top