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Bought a burke #4

woodtickgreg

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium
#31
What a great find and a fine American machine! I hate you!! (to be taken in the same light as "you suck!") :biggrin:

Just the right size and from the looks of things, no painting needed. I dream of finding machinery like this!


View attachment 51920

You're right.. looks great sitting by the South Bend!
Thanks for the compliments! Yup the paint is pretty good, maybe one day I'll go through it and paint it. Right now I'm just gonna get a vice and use her, she's so smooth and quiet, no bearing noise at all. I did find one minor problem that I will need to address, the f-o-r does not function with the switch. It functions f-o-f no reverse. I think the switch is wired wrong or it is wired wrong at the motor. I do have the original owners manual and it has a wiring diagram so I can get this minor detail sorted out. Every now and then I just have to turn it on and admire it........then stand back and go yup, I do suck. LOL
 

ChuckB

Active User
Active Member
#32
. Every now and then I just have to turn it on and admire it........then stand back and go yup, I do suck. LOL
Ha Ha ! I thought I was the only one that did that! :))

EDIT: Admiring it and standing there with a cold beer in your hand really enhances the feeling. :))
 
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atwatterkent

Active User
Active Member
#33
I have another couple of questions about your mill if you don't mind. Exactly how long is the drawbar minus the nut end? How does the drawbar mate to the pulley face? Does it have a thrust washer? As to the arbor, at what angle is the point, or dead center machined to, that supports the arbor? How long is the arbor assembly from the spindle nose to the arbor end? And lastly, what is the thread dia and tpi that tightens the cutter and spacers on the arbor?
Thank you for your help, Bob

By the way, that is a nice looking SB too.
 

woodtickgreg

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium
#34
I have another couple of questions about your mill if you don't mind. Exactly how long is the drawbar minus the nut end? How does the drawbar mate to the pulley face? Does it have a thrust washer? As to the arbor, at what angle is the point, or dead center machined to, that supports the arbor? How long is the arbor assembly from the spindle nose to the arbor end? And lastly, what is the thread dia and tpi that tightens the cutter and spacers on the arbor?
Thank you for your help, Bob

By the way, that is a nice looking SB too.
Woah! You don't ask for much do ya. LOL I'll have to get back to you on this one, after I make a list of the questions to take to my shop.
 

george wilson

Global Moderator
Staff member
H-M Supporter-Premium
#37
I watched the video. Do NOT let the cutter dwell in 1 spot. It will dull it.

I had a #4 as my first REAL mill. It was a real machine alright,and would take good cuts in steel. I had to have the table re cut top and dovetails too. It had gotten a convex curve to it over the years,from having the T slot squeezed from tightening down the vise.

I would have LOVED to have found a vertical attachment back then,but never did. I made a simple power feed as mine was missing everything. I had to make up a jackshaft outfit to get different speeds. It did have a Master gear head motor(unless I added that too). Eventually I bought a large mill drill,then my Bridgeport type,which I've been very happy with. I also acquired a very nice Harrison universal horizontal mill and a Deckel fp1. But,I'm so used to the Bridgey type,I seldom use the others. That Harrison WILL eliminate metal,though!! Gear head. very powerful and smooth. They finished everything in turquoise which I COULD do without!!!
 

woodtickgreg

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium
#38
Thanks for the advise George. I would like a bridgy type mill but I just do not have the room for one. The little Burke works well for my hobbies and what I do with it. It was easy to take apart and a couple guys could take it down to my basement. I think I have all the stuff for the original power feed for the table, it's in a box. I might some day try to adapt a electric power feed to it so as not to rob any power from the cutter. But for now it works fine for me, besides the best way to keep the handles shiny is to use them, LOL.
 

woodtickgreg

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium
#40
Wow, what a great find, how did I miss that one? ;)

I would love to see pictures of the power feed parts sometime.
That would be easy, they are all in a box as I don't use it. I just took apart this mill and moved it again as I am moving, heavy little sucker.
 

Al 1

Active Member
Active Member
#41
Greg,
Nice find. I was wondering if the motor on your unit has a oil type tag still intact. I have the same mill and the letters on my oil ID tag got washed out when I cleaned up the machine.

Thanks, Al.
 

woodtickgreg

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium
#42
Greg,
Nice find. I was wondering if the motor on your unit has a oil type tag still intact. I have the same mill and the letters on my oil ID tag got washed out when I cleaned up the machine.

Thanks, Al.
I don't think so but I will look, this topic has come up before, I have the original owners manual and it doesn't say in there either. I know mine has oil as I have checked it, and it weeps when I run it, but I too would like to know so I can change it. My Little burke works well for what I use it for, I still have not used it in horizontal, I usually just use the vertical attachment and the 3c collets with end mills. I like the little burke though, it is solid.
 

Ulma Doctor

Infinitely Curious
Active Member
#44
And I couldn't stop playing with the mill so I had to give the change over to the vertical attachment a try. It was really quite easy, I cave it a wirl under power and she is very smooth and quiet even at the highest speed.

What she looks like with the vert attachment installed.
View attachment 51565

You can also see the collet arbor laying on the table.
View attachment 51566
The vert assembly can be mounted on either side of the bracket that the top column goes through, that would give a larger range than I thought it would have,
View attachment 51567

Here you can see the number graduations are quite clear and the head is in great shape.
View attachment 51568

I wonder if I can mount an electric power feed to this table instead of the original pto drive unit? I think the p.o. did this at one time, I can't figure out any other reason why he would have removed it. I think he then transfered it to the rong fu mill my friend purchased. My thinking of doing this is all the motor power would go to the cutter shaft and not the table feed.
View attachment 51569


:drool:
beautiful machine Greg!!!!
:yousuck3:
 

george wilson

Global Moderator
Staff member
H-M Supporter-Premium
#46
My first DECENT mill was a Burke#4. It was a real machine,capable of taking decent cuts out of steel. My table was a bit convex,which comes from years of tightening down stuff in the T slot. I had to have it re cut on the top,AND bottom,and the dovetail also. They did some more or less decorative scraping on the table,which was nice.

I can't tell if yours was re cut,since the rest of the machine looks so nice. I WISHED forever that I could have found a vertical head for mine,but never did. Did you see the slotting attachment another guy found?
 

woodtickgreg

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium
#47
My first DECENT mill was a Burke#4. It was a real machine,capable of taking decent cuts out of steel. My table was a bit convex,which comes from years of tightening down stuff in the T slot. I had to have it re cut on the top,AND bottom,and the dovetail also. They did some more or less decorative scraping on the table,which was nice.

I can't tell if yours was re cut,since the rest of the machine looks so nice. I WISHED forever that I could have found a vertical head for mine,but never did. Did you see the slotting attachment another guy found?
Yes I saw the attachment, pretty cool indeed. Thanks for pointing it out though. I still have not got the burke back together completely after the move, still working on other things in the house. I have to upgrade the fuse panel and get some real power into the garage, then I can start working on getting the shop set up again. Guy's, take a look at your shop and then think about moving it to a place that is not set up and has now power...........kinda sucks but it will be ok in the end.
 

woodtickgreg

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium
#48
So here's where the mill and my shop stands now. Wood shop is nearly done finally! Working on the metal shop side now. The switch on the Burke no.4 got smashed in the move. It was a forward- off- reverse switch, but it was only wired for forward. I have never needed reverse on the mill because I do not have the power feed hooked up. I have all the parts to do so I think, I just don't need it. Plus I have also acquired a bigger Powermatic/Burke mvn knee mill that will get a power feed. So rather than replacing the switch with an expensive rotary switch I went with a push button on off with a large panic off paddle. While I was at it I replaced the cord and wiring with a heavier 12 gage stranded flexible wire. Here's a few pics.
The original switch, that doesn't work.
20170305_165145.jpg
I'm going to reuse the mounting holes since they are nice and high and drilled and tapped.
20170305_165206.jpg
The p.o. did make a nice stainless steel junction box, but it wasn't grounded, now it is. That's the new wire installed.
20170305_165216.jpg
I am going to reuse this box and outlet, nice to have power for a light.
20170305_165235.jpg
The new switch box.
20170305_165347.jpg
This is an extra deep box because the switch is quite deep.
20170305_165420.jpg
I had to clearance a tab on the box for the switch about a 16th to 1/8th. Dremmel to the rescue!
20170305_165744.jpg
 

woodtickgreg

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium
#49
Drilled a couple holes in the box and bolted it on.
20170305_175717.jpg
Since this is stranded 12 gage wire I tinned all the ends for the connections.
20170305_181817.jpg
I like the big paddle switch.
20170305_185836.jpg
All wired up and tested, she is alive again!
Now I just need to run a couple of power circuits to the metal shop. This is about where it will go. New mill will go to the left of it.
20170305_193859.jpg