Bolts They Say Do Not Remove Because They Are Set At Factory?

737mechanic

737mechanic

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After reading some tech data they say there are some factory set bolts that you should not remove. I watched a youtube video of a a guy saying you have to take the so called factory bolts out in order to work on the head and he was going to show how to get the factory setting back but he never made a part 3 to the series.

My question is does anyone know how to set this factory setting after reassembling the head.

I have my mill head back together and it is running great but if there is some wear and tear taking place because it isn't set to the optimal setting I would like to know.
 
I guess we are going to need a bit more information. I have torn down and rebuilt a few BP type heads, and can't think of anything that you can't set up by feel. But then I never read the instructions either;)
 
i'm curious as to what factory setting we are discussing?
anything wrong would usually have an auditory or visual cue.
 
I am still looking for the tech data I read that said do not ever loosen these particular bolts but I can not find it yet. But here is the video and at mark 16:00 the guy talks about the factory adjustment.

 
Ulma Doctor said:
i'm curious as to what factory setting we are discussing?
anything wrong would usually have an auditory or visual cue.
Click to expand...

Most of the time yes but in some cases you may not hear or see anything and not realize something isn't right until many hours later and then something tends to be prematurely worn or broken because it wasn't setup right. I just want to be sure this isn't that big of a deal.


I think it might be where the direct drive splined gear hub meshes with the spindle pulley hub. If these where slightly off center they would still mesh but as they turned there would be extra stresses from not being perfectly lined up.

Of course that is only a guess.
 
I think I got this.....the "factory setting" has nothing to do with torque values and such.
The last assembly he removed has no dowel pins for alignment, and therefore has to be "floated" in to seek it's own alignment. I've done this before. To float it in, you have to drive the spindle with an auxiliary motor from the bottom, while you tighten the bolts.
 
Could be as simple as calibrating the Reeves drive speed indicator. As I recall, some machines have adjustments for such. I've never heard of any special "do not remove" bolts on BP heads.
 
That's the same as I described above, maybe simpler. You don't want remove the bolts on the turret, because they connect to an inner ring that will fall down in the casting.
 
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