Bluing or black oxiding your custom made tools?

[Alan H.]

I recently made an arbor for my mill out of 1144 Ultra Strength and I decided that I would blue it rather than keep it raw. I blued it with Brownells Oxpho Blue. Turned out okay but it has driven my interest to find out what alternatives are out there for coating a tool.

So if you wanted to blue or coat a tool you've made, what would you use?

 

[bss1]

I made a short chuck wrench out of oil hardening drill rod with a 304 SS handle for my four jaw. I used the brownells oxpho blue as well. It turned out nice and has held up better than expected.

 

[Firestopper]

Hi Allan,
I've had good luck with Kleen-bore Black Magic on machined gun parts. Prep is very important prior to bluing, I use lacquer thiner to clean toughly and coat with lite oil after bluing to prevent further oxidation.

 

[aliva]

Caswell plating has some great products. I've used the cold blackening solution , with good results

 

[Alan H.]

Caswell makes a lot of good stuff. I have bought some of it in the past. My experience with them is that they are bit pricey but if it works, why not?

 

[royesses]

Parkerizing see :http://www.parkerizingkits.com/
http://www.parkerizingkits.com/
I've not yet tried them but I've seen some nice finishes done by others. From gray to black. I'm eventually going to try one of the kits.

Roy

 

[burtonbr]

I just recently tried the creswell black oxide, very simple and quick. These clamps won't get much wear so should hold up well, but it's so easy i could re dip them anytime they came out good.

.

 

[ddickey]

You could try hot oil bluing.

 

[4GSR]

Any of these blueing processes require the parts to be absolutely clean, except for the hot oil process. I've used the Brownell's, Caswell's version as well as Birchwood Casey's tool black. Both with good results provided you follow the simple process preparing your parts for blueing. They all require the parts to be clean before applying the blueing or dipping them in solution. I'll wash off the parts using a little Dawn dishwashing soap, rinse with hot water, getting the part hot. Be sure to wear disposable gloves to keep the natural oil's from your skin from touching the part. While the part is reasonably hot from the rinse water bath, apply the blueing solution. I don't recommend it, but you can heat up the solution to around 150 degrees F along with the part being fairly warm, 90-120 degree F. The heat will help get a good deep black finish to your part. Try to polish the part to rid of tool marks if you can. The tool black will bring out them! Ken

 

[benmychree]

I have posted this before, but will repeat it; The U.S. Armory method, which I found in an American Machinist article, was to use a 50/50 mixture of sodium nitrate and potassium nitrate melted to 600 - 650 degrees F. until the desired color is reached (from blue to black), quench in warm water then in boiling water, and then in hot oil. this makes a very durable, rust resistant finish. Cleaning any oil or anything adhering to the article is not necessary. More details are available in my original post, posted with permission of American Machinist. My experiences with cold blue processes, including Birchwood Casey's have been not all that good, compared to the above .