Bill M's Pm1340gt Setup

That's a nice looking lathe by the way, I can't believe how flat the back of your casting is mine was all BOING bowed.

Thanks. Today as I was finishing up the long scale install I hauled the tailstock over to the bench to clean it up/inspect (might as well...seeing as I already had it off). The bottom surfaces of the tailstock are hand scraped. No grinder scrapes, no excess paint anywhere. I'm really liking this lathe and I haven't even done the run-in yet. :)
 
Last edited:
Looks beautiful Bill. Thanks for sharing the pictures. Someday when I grow up I will get some big boy toys like yours!
 
Looks beautiful Bill. Thanks for sharing the pictures. Someday when I grow up I will get some big boy toys like yours!

I really do like them Brooks, but I'd refrain from calling 'em big boy toys. The guys with the Real Big boy toys might get offended. ;)

But thanks, I will take your comment as it was intended. :)
 
Will: do you have a cover on your Z axis scale?

Yes I do. Like coolidge said, I mounted my bracket to the bottom of read head. My DRO install is in post 3, maybe it might help some? http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/my-pm1236.11475/#post-94083


IMG_2149.jpg
 
Thanks. Today as I was finishing up the long scale install I hauled the tailstock over to the bench to clean it up/inspect (might as well...seeing as I already had it off). The bottom surfaces of the tailstock are hand scraped. No grinder scrapes, no excess paint anywhere. I'm really liking this lathe and I haven't even done the run-in yet. :)

The more I clean build up, clean, adjust, etc... this 1340GT lathe, the more I realize how well it is built!

This is a testament to Matt, QMT tools, and the PM line of machines; they are built to Matt's specifications, it shows.

The folks who just look at the feature list and compare price... are IMO missing the real cookie jar!
However that is simply my opinion, as I am a quality buff!
 
If the headstock is not parallel to the ways, how do I know which end of the headstock to tweak? And how many of the headstock screws should I loosen to tweak it? Or should I not even bother with this until I get the Pratt mounted?

Bill, you shouldn't even need to mess with adjusting the headstock unless something happened to it, it should have been adjusted at the factory. When ready, level the lathe (removing bed twist, square with the world not important). Then chuck up a pretty stout piece of material like 2"Ø or larger with much more unsupported overhang than you learned not to do, like 12" or so (that's why larger the better). Take a light skim cut with a nice sharp tool bit then mic at the chuck side & the unsupported end. Compare measurements. Then you'll know if you'll need or want to adjust the headstock. You shouldn't have too though.
 
Bill, you shouldn't even need to mess with adjusting the headstock unless something happened to it, it should have been adjusted at the factory. When ready, level the lathe (removing bed twist, square with the world not important). Then chuck up a pretty stout piece of material like 2"Ø or larger with much more unsupported overhang than you learned not to do, like 12" or so (that's why larger the better). Take a light skim cut with a nice sharp tool bit then mic at the chuck side & the unsupported end. Compare measurements. Then you'll know if you'll need or want to adjust the headstock. You shouldn't have too though.

Will, may I ask a question on this procedure...

I have seen it done with a piece twice that long, supported in the tailstock. Is that a different procedure, for tailstock alignment?

THX

John
 
Will, may I ask a question on this procedure...

I have seen it done with a piece twice that long, supported in the tailstock. Is that a different procedure, for tailstock alignment?

THX

John

John, yes, supported in the tailstock would be for tailstock alignment. Best to do that between centers but if you have an accurate enough chuck it would be fine too. Since I use a much longer bar for that, instead of skimming across the entire length of the bar, I do it with "collars" like this:

Img_9135.jpg



There's other ways to align the tailstock too. I find the above method to be the most accurate for me, I can post the other methods too if anyone would like, just let me know & I'll find my post.
 
John, yes, supported in the tailstock would be for tailstock alignment. Best to do that between centers but if you have an accurate enough chuck it would be fine too. Since I use a much longer bar for that, instead of skimming across the entire length of the bar, I do it with "collars" like this:

Img_9135.jpg



There's other ways to align the tailstock too. I find the above method to be the most accurate for me, I can post the other methods too if anyone would like, just let me know & I'll find my post.

If you come across it.... the alternate method would be interesting to see.
You know about us newbees... all open eyed and learning... LOL
Then one day, we will be teaching the new crop of newbees... :)
 
Back
Top