Bill M's Pm1340gt Setup

My feed/threading knob had over spray and some leftover masking tape that made it hard to turn. Cleaned this up and some lubercation, after some use it became much easier to turn. My half nut was also a bit sticky and stiff to engage until I thoroughly cleaned everything and applied some light gear oil. Needs some TLC before everything operates smoothly. A word of caution when cleaning painted areas, I was using alcahol and it dissolved some of the paint. So just about any solvent will soften it.

The damage to the motor is a big disappointment as to the packaging and shipping, really need to do better. I also had sme damage due to poor packing, so not an isolated occurrence. Since you still have the single phase motor, are any of the damaged motor parts interchangeable with the 3 phase motor? Can you use the single phase motor for now?
 
wrmiller19 said:
Hey Will,

Yea I was really impressed with the t-nut fitment. Slight interference fit, with all surfaces ground flush. Can you elaborate on your comment about "lockup"? I don't understand and I would like to so I don't screw this up. Thanks. :)
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Mike pretty much explain it but yeah, by lockup I mean the QCTP, the top nut. You can make it flush if you want be being anal here isn't going to benefit anything. Make it sit below the compound top surface, do it once, & you'll never have to worry about it again.

As far as cleaning the lathe, don't use solvents like degreaser, brake cleaner, alcohol based. I use WD-40, does a great job, how do you think I keep my lathe so clean. ;) That's all I use WD-40, cleaning & machining aluminum, that's just about all it's good for in my book.
 
mksj said:
My feed/threading knob had over spray and some leftover masking tape that made it hard to turn. Cleaned this up and some lubercation, after some use it became much easier to turn. My half nut was also a bit sticky and stiff to engage until I thoroughly cleaned everything and applied some light gear oil. Needs some TLC before everything operates smoothly. A word of caution when cleaning painted areas, I was using alcahol and it dissolved some of the paint. So just about any solvent will soften it.

The damage to the motor is a big disappointment as to the packaging and shipping, really need to do better. I also had sme damage due to poor packing, so not an isolated occurrence. Since you still have the single phase motor, are any of the damaged motor parts interchangeable with the 3 phase motor? Can you use the single phase motor for now?
Click to expand...

I've been cleaning all of the overspray on the knobs as I find it. How did you lubricate the feed/thread knob, just squirt a little oil on it?

How do I get to the half-nuts? I can see them behind the apron and squirted some oil back there, but I've never attempted to removed an apron that has power feed on it. Or did you just go at it from the back?

I have the single phase motor of course, and will take the three phase apart to determine the extent of the damage. The fan housings look identical from a glance. Hopefully when I hear from Matt he can give some suggestions.
 
darkzero said:
Mike pretty much explain it but yeah, by lockup I mean the QCTP, the top nut. You can make it flush if you want be being anal here isn't going to benefit anything. Make it sit below the compound top surface, do it once, & you'll never have to worry about it again.

As far as cleaning the lathe, don't use solvents like degreaser, brake cleaner, alcohol based. I use WD-40, does a great job, how do you think I keep my lathe so clean. ;) That's all I use WD-40, cleaning & machining aluminum, that's just about all it's good for in my book.
Click to expand...

Thanks. All I have used so far is WD-40. Good cutting fluid for aluminum, and it is good for removing that sticky stuff from labels and such. :)
 
The feed/thread knob was stiff because of the tape/paint. I cleaned it with a scalpel and some acetone (unpainted metal), then lubercated around the knob with hydraulic gear oil (20w). Cleaned the leads crew with a brass wire brush followed by a rag pushed into the tread while running the lead screw going end to end. Use some mineral spirits on the rag, then some 20w (iso68) oil on the rag. The half nut, pumped some of the same oil into the it with a long nose oil can, then ran the lead screw with the hal nut engaged. Use ra rag to clean the lead screw as you run it.
 
wrmiller19 said:
Hey Will,

Yea I was really impressed with the t-nut fitment. Slight interference fit, with all surfaces ground flush. Can you elaborate on your comment about "lockup"? I don't understand and I would like to so I don't screw this up. Thanks. :)
Click to expand...

Bill imo the T nut and QCTP should >>pinch<< the compound, the top of the compound should be slightly higher than the top of the T nut to ensure this pinch. Just think how buff you'll get after a few months working those stiff levers, you'll have to adopt an Austrian accent and change your name to Billzenegger. ;)
 
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I got some measurements from Mike so I could mill my T-nut prior to my lathe arriving. Ended up needing to take a few thou off the top as I found that I could move it back & forth in the slot with the nut tightened. No big deal, no 2 machines are going to be exactly the same. My threading lever & fwd/rev dials are quite stiff also, hoping they'll loosen with use. Right now it's far too easy to get partial engagement & hear that dreaded gear clashing noise. Sometimes have to use the jog a couple times to ensure good engagement. My feed speed levers, on the other hand are almost too free. Very easy to overshoot where I want them too be positioned. End up using both hands & lots of finesse to get them in the right position.
Anxious to see pics of that motor. Surprised the stand wasn't banded on at least. Mine was. Steel straps even. Wish they'd done the same with that chuck...........
Mark
 
Love your avatar Mark. I have one very similarly marked. :)

Not a great deal accomplished today. I hoisted the three phase motor up on the bench and removed the fan cover. There is a cheesy plastic fan in there that I doubt any impact would hurt, and there is no visible damage to the motor case anywhere. The motor shaft turns freely. So I think all I need to do is scavenge the fan cover from the single phase and swap the motor spec stickers.

I removed the gear cover from the left side of the lathe and cleaned the gears and started checking the drive belt this thing came with. When I was first attempting to turn the chuck it was really weird in that you could move the chuck a bit, release it, and it would promptly back up. Turning it more and I noticed definite 'humps' or areas that required additional force on the chuck to get it to turn. I loosened the tension bolt and tried to pivot the motor up so I could get the belt off and promptly ran into what appears to be one of the headstock adjustment screws. What's up with that? So I couldn't seem to get the belt off and in 'one of my moments' I pulled out the Cold Steel folder and solved the problem permanently. Didn't want that belt anyway after hearing the stories here. So I pulled out some linked belt I had in a drawer and make up a new belt that allows the motor to settle down a little further which makes belt changes easier but still allows the cover to be put back on. I don't recall exactly but I think I was in the 26-27" range with the last installed link. Now the chucks spins nicely. :)

I removed the control panel on the front of the lathe to get a better look at this oiling system for the Norton gear box. Wow, is pretty much all I can say. I've already started a background process in the brain housing group to replace that with something that can more accurately and reliably deliver oil to the gears in the gearbox.
 
Hey Bill,
Got to dinkin' around with the threading lever & after oiling the crap out of it with no results, I pulled the threading dial for a better look. Found 3 hex screws behind there that appear to keep tension (too much in my case) on the half nuts. The larger one was kinda loose already, & when I tightened it the lever really got stiff. The top one didn't seem to do anything one way or another, but the bottom one, that was the key. Loosened it about 1/4 turn & now the lever moves quite freely. Might want to give it a shot.
By the way, bought a Gates 6926 belt today & it fits perfect. Plenty of slack to swap between pulleys & the cover fits. Yay! Anybody want those 25 & 28 inch belts????? I'll send them to you FREE
Mark
 
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