Bill M's Pm1340gt Setup

Bill, the lathe looks great. Sorry, I have been so busy lately I haven't been on the forum much but I had to check in and see if your lathe showed up yet.

Glad to see you received it and you are able to get it set up.

Mike.
 
Bill it's great to see you finally got your lathe. Sorry to hear about the shipping damage on the motor. Where exactly was it in the packaging? It looks likes Matt is going to have to spring for a metal banding machine to old things down in the future. He will make this right I'm sure.

Joe

It was sitting loose on top of the lathe crate and didn't even have my name on it. The stand boxes were also loose and one was damaged but mostly superficial. I suspect it (motor) got launched into something hard.
 
Yeah real hard like a fork lift fork. Only I don't see a hole in the box and I don't see the paint chips from the area that's scraped, its almost like it was not in the box when it was damaged. Meh just turn a new motor cover on the lathe out of 316 stainless.
 
Bill, the lathe looks great. Sorry, I have been so busy lately I haven't been on the forum much but I had to check in and see if your lathe showed up yet.

Glad to see you received it and you are able to get it set up.

Mike.

Hey Mike! I was starting to worry... ;)

The setup is a 'work in progress', with emphasis on the work. I did manage to make some progress today in the cleanup. About the only thing left is the leadscrew and the whatever I make filthy trying to get that thing clean. I took the tool holder off and marveled at the t-nut and top slide. The sides and top of both are ground and it looks like it was done after the t-nut was installed in the top slide.

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The top of the t-nut is flush with the top of the top slide, and is held in place by two set screws (actually had to use some gentle taps from a dead-blow to get it out). Is it important to have the t-nut flush with the top of the top slide? Reason I ask is that the blank I received with my new QCTP is about 8 thou too short in that dimension. It is just barely long and wide enough.

I do like all the ground surfaces. Well, once you clean all the goop off of them. It is kinda like unwrapping a present at Christmas. :)

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Here's a shot of the latest progress.

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Some things I've noted so far:

The tailstock doesn't support arbors with tangs on them very well. If you use one like the one I received, you loose 20mm right from the start.

The threading engagement lever almost took a sledge hammer to get working. I started squirting oil everywhere in there and have some really black stuff come out. I have managed to get it working but it is a 'very' positive effort to move it. An accompanying grunt does seem to help. The feed lever is much easier. However, both of these levers are a bit short for me. This first came to my attention as I was trying to disengage the threading half-nuts and promptly smashed my fingers into the apron leaving a bit of skin and blood. To keep a proper distance I can only grab the lever with two fingers and my thumb. Not much leverage given the effort required to move that thing.

The handles on the cross slide wheel and apron wheel are too short, scarred and otherwise look like they've had a very hard life. If you look at the last pic you will see that I tried one of my swivel handles from El Hefe and it works great. Looks like I'm going to be ordering a couple more of those things and putting them on the lathe.

The feed/threading knob is very stiff and takes really good grip to move. The direction knob requires less effort but you can't just casually twist it either. I wish these things had levers on them like the spindle speed levers.

Had to tweak the micrometer stop a bit as it too was rather difficult to turn. Very grabby/gritty. Works better now.

I haven't even gotten to the motor yet, nor cracked open the electrical panel. But, all things considered I am liking this thing. :)
 
Yeah real hard like a fork lift fork. Only I don't see a hole in the box and I don't see the paint chips from the area that's scraped, its almost like it was not in the box when it was damaged. Meh just turn a new motor cover on the lathe out of 316 stainless.

It looked like the box it came in had been re-taped. Twice.
 
Wow, I never seen a T-nut for the compound with a better looking fit than that! I actually prefer my tool post T-nut to be on the tight side. Although it looks nice, when you go to fit your Dorian T-nut, be sure to make the T-nut's top surface sit a fair amount below the top surface of the compound slide. If you try to match them exactly, you may have headaches with lockup.

Looking great so far Bill, I'm sure everything will loosen up over time or is probably just a matter of slight adjusments. The detents like for the half nuts lever should have a spring so you can adjust the tension to your liking.
 
Machine looks beautiful Bill. Best part of the process is discovering how all the bits and pieces integrate...then get them adjusted correctly. The finish on the ground surfaces looks amazing. Good work! As always thanks for sharing your experiences..
 
Wow, I never seen a T-nut for the compound with a better looking fit than that! I actually prefer my tool post T-nut to be on the tight side. Although it looks nice, when you go to fit your Dorian T-nut, be sure to make the T-nut's top surface sit a fair amount below the top surface of the compound slide. If you try to match them exactly, you may have headaches with lockup.

Looking great so far Bill, I'm sure everything will loosen up over time or is probably just a matter of slight adjusments. The detents like for the half nuts lever should have a spring so you can adjust the tension to your liking.

Hey Will,

Yea I was really impressed with the t-nut fitment. Slight interference fit, with all surfaces ground flush. Can you elaborate on your comment about "lockup"? I don't understand and I would like to so I don't screw this up. Thanks. :)
 
Bill, that surprises me about the threading lever and the leadscrew engagement lever, mine were smooth as silk and were free right out of the box. My very first video even showed how smooth and fluid the levers and dials were and how easy it was to hit a target right on the money when boring to a shoulder.

As for the "T" nut on the compound slide, flush is ok but you just don't want it any taller or the QCTP won't lock down solid. Trust me, I found out the hard way. I used the original "T" nut with my Dorian QCTP for a while before I had a mill to machine the new "T" nut. The POS cast "T" nut started to warp or flex upward over time and I had an issue with the toolpost moving but it was so slight it took me a bit to determine where the play was coming from.

I took the "T" nut out, touched it across the belt sander to remove a few thou and all was good again. It was just enough that when the tooling touched against the work it would slowly move the toolpost. It drove me "nuts" for a couple of nights until I got it figured out. I then simply machined a new "T" nut using the tool steel base that the Dorian came with. I too got mesmerized over the ground finish of the OEM "T" nut but trust me, toss it in favor of the Dorian blank and you will be much happier in the long run.

I ground my tangs on seveal of my drill chuck arbors as I wasn't willing to loose almost an inch of travel of my tailstock due to the shallow tang recepticle in the tailstock. I ground them to where I only have about .125" from retracted when the arbor will pop free from the morse taper.

I haven't used my micrometer stop yet, I much prefer a "soft-stop" vs. the "hard-stop" variety.

Mike.
 
Thanks Mike. This helps. And I'm sure things will loosen up as I use it. :)

I won't be threading to a shoulder any time soon though, as I feel like I'm about to pull the apron off the saddle when I try to disengage quickly.
 
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