allthumbz link=topic=704.msg3677#msg3677 date=1296599260 said:
You recently bought an old, very used and neglected lathe, and want to refubrish the old boy and need help on painting. You have cleaned it up all well and good, however there is more paint missing from the metal than there is paint remaining. You want to repaint it as close to the original color as possible.
More info here than you asked for, but...
Here is basically what I do.. (DISCLAIMER: I don't consider myself a master restorer and can't hold a candle to many members in this and other forums.)
If you want to do a good job, you must completely disassemble it. Take a lot of pictures and use labled ziplock bags for all the pieces. A parts manual is an added bonus, unless you have a real good memory.
I use aircraft paint stripper to remove the old paint ,(don't forget the thick rubber gloves..) and am careful with the aluminum tags.. I avoid getting stripper near them and cover with sticky marine grade grease for protection. Also keep the stripper away from plastics. After all the paint is stripped, I deal with the rust using assorted wire wheels on the bed and the wire wheel in the grinder for the small pieces. If the rust is real bad, I use diluted pool acid and soak the parts for a minimal amount of time, of course bronze bushings will be destroyed and machined surfaces could be ruined so I rule this method out on these types of parts. Electrolytic rust removal is another option that works quite well for rust., (
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/other-articles/467718-rust-removal-electrolysis.html). Shiny surfaces should be sanded with medium grit paper. When everything is free from paint and rust, I wash with hot water and detergent, etch with POR-15 Metal Ready or a similar metal etching product, wipe off with a little acetone on a rag and after drying, paint. I usually use Rustoleum in the spray can and no primer with good results. I use steel wire and hang my parts outside when painting. If an oven is available (or the wife is out shopping) parts can heated to increase drying time.
I have also used regular POR-15 topped with POR-15 hardnose paint on motorcycle frames using the above technics, but the stuff is deadly.. Idealy, a fresh air mask system should be used. Even with "regular" paint, precautions should be also taken.
Again, this is basically how I paint my stuff. I have been happy with the results.. your results and opinions may vary.
HSS link=topic=704.msg3681#msg3681 date=1296601047 said:
I was told by someone that paints old iron not to use primer. Primer will cause the paint to chip whereas straight paint would dent rather than chip when struck with something hard. I didn't use primer on my lathe and so far no chips or dents. YMMV. Oh and I think he might have said to use an alkoloid(SP) enamel, but it's been a long time back.
Patrick
I have to agree.. I veered from my tried and true method of painting bare metal with rustoleum and no primer. Big mistake.. I painted something the other day and used primer.. the paint is easy to scrape off, exposing the primer.. I can take my nails and scratch it off with not much effort. On the other hand The paint I used on my 6" Atlas (painted with Rustoleum on bare metal) is rock hard and I can't scrape it off with my nails.. and it's hard to chip. Goes to show you.. stick with what has worked in the past and don't believe what you read.
