Best way to fit these parts together.

Just make them the same size. No more, no less. They won't fit together if they are truly the same size. When I put rings on impellers, we heated the ring, a little loctite and done deal. (Dead Blow) that ring on and voila. I'm pretty sure you could bore it and use a cigarette lighter with the size. Is it rotating a certain direction? Threads?

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It will be spinning to the right, I am making a ER32 collet system for my drill press to turn it into a poor mans mill. I have already replaced the bearings in the quill with higher end double bearings that support radial and axial loads and now I am working on the driving shaft and collet chuck. In my research a 1/8 roll pin has a shear strength of between 1000 and 2000 lbs depending on the material. I would think that would hold up to the forces of a small end mill. After that I just need to add some adjustable brass slides to take the play out of the quill and add a cheap sliding table.

At this point my milling is only for decorative effects so even if it has some runout it won't make a big difference to me.
 
It will be spinning to the right, I am making a ER32 collet system for my drill press to turn it into a poor mans mill. I have already replaced the bearings in the quill with higher end double bearings that support radial and axial loads and now I am working on the driving shaft and collet chuck. In my research a 1/8 roll pin has a shear strength of between 1000 and 2000 lbs depending on the material. I would think that would hold up to the forces of a small end mill. After that I just need to add some adjustable brass slides to take the play out of the quill and add a cheap sliding table.

At this point my milling is only for decorative effects so even if it has some runout it won't make a big difference to me.
That should work just fine
 
That sounds awesome. Could you take pictures as you go? What was the process for bearing selection and replacement? I might try this myself if pricing is good enough. Proxxon micro Mills are around $400 new.

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That sounds awesome. Could you take pictures as you go? What was the process for bearing selection and replacement? I might try this myself if pricing is good enough. Proxxon micro Mills are around $400 new.

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Yeah I'll take some pictures and see if I can put a little info together (assuming it works :) ).

I bored out the quill to fit the new bearing last night and installed the bearing and put the stock shaft back in. At this point the run-out on the shaft without adding my ER32 chuck is less than 0.0005". My DTI goes down to 0.0005 and it barely wiggles when turning through a full turn.

A this point I need to make my ER32 chuck and install it on the shaft, add a collet and end mill and see where I end up in run-out.
 
Sounds like this project is coming along nicely, Jman. I find this quite interesting because I have an old Craftsman drillpress that might make a good candidate for this type of conversion. I'll be watching for updates and eventually might need some advice/assistance. Thanks for sharing!
-Randall
 
Hello Jman.
have you considered that slow tapers can transmit a lot of torque? All of the common tapers were developed by smart people and hard maths. It would take very little reinforcement such as a single grubscrew locating on a cone or into a seated taper surface to lock up to some very impressive numbers as to sheer. More power to your R.W.Y.H. approuch. Guys like you inspire us all.
- Barry.
 
You can also shrink the shaft in by heating the part with the ID which will expand it. All you need is a .001 or so difference in diameters and the shaft will never release. I used to shrink carbide inserts into steel for eyelet press dies and never had one pop out.
 
Sounds like this project is coming along nicely, Jman. I find this quite interesting because I have an old Craftsman drillpress that might make a good candidate for this type of conversion. I'll be watching for updates and eventually might need some advice/assistance. Thanks for sharing!
-Randall

I'm actually using my old 8" craftsman drill press as the donor. Worst case scenario I mess up a $75 drill press and lose a little cost in parts that could always be re-used elsewhere.

Hello Jman.
have you considered that slow tapers can transmit a lot of torque? All of the common tapers were developed by smart people and hard maths. It would take very little reinforcement such as a single grubscrew locating on a cone or into a seated taper surface to lock up to some very impressive numbers as to sheer. More power to your R.W.Y.H. approuch. Guys like you inspire us all.
- Barry.

I actually have! Infact I decided to use the original shaft and cut a J33 taper on the chuck. Then I will drill and secure it with a roll pin to keep it from popping off. No reason to re-create a part that is already done :). The taper plus the roll pin should be completely adequate to hold everything together safely and securely.
 
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