Bench for a SB 9"

Glenn Brooks

Glenn Brooks

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Nov 14, 2014
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hello all,

I need to make a bench to mount my SB 9x 48" lathe.

Iam thinking about making a free standing wood bench out of some old growth, tight grain 3x5 timbers and 100 year old 5/4" fir T &G tight grain flooring.

Alternative is to weld up a steel frame (for rigidity and lack of movement etc)

So, I wonder if a wood bench move move and twist to much as it absorbs moisture over the winter?

What are the pros and cons? And what thicknesses of the table top are best??

Thanks
Glenn
 
I used heavy box section and angle iron, and an 18mm plywood top sealed with varnish.. and the lathe is mounted to a 13mm steel plate screwed to the ply.
I added jacking bolts to level everything aswell.
Seems to work well.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 
If you decide on steel, I have detailed plans that I drew (Fusion 360) for the stand I built for my 12 x 36 Asian lathe. Very sturdy and I'm happy with it. You (or I would if you want) could easily re-scale these plans to fit your needs. Made mostly from some 2.5 x 2.5 x.125 square tube. I would be glad to send the plans to you.

stand 2a v9.png
 
Glenn,

I like the idea of using wood for a bench for your lathe. My 9" SBL has been on junky wooden benches ever since it was born. Never had any issues with it. The trick is, leave the bolts snug on the tailstock end of the bed. This allows movement in the bench without affecting the lathe bed. It's been working for me for the last 68 years and still cuts true.

Ken
 
My 9" south bend lathe is still on al stand from the 40's. It's a 2x2 angle iron frame with a wooden top covered with 1/8" metal. Still seems to be holding up fine after all those years.
 
4gsr said:
Glenn,

I like the idea of using wood for a bench for your lathe. My 9" SBL has been on junky wooden benches ever since it was born. Never had any issues with it. The trick is, leave the bolts snug on the tailstock end of the bed. This allows movement in the bench without affecting the lathe bed. It's been working for me for the last 68 years and still cuts true.

Ken
Click to expand...

Ken,

Thanks for the tip on snugging down the tailstock bolts. One question - if the headstock feet are not bolted down to,the bench, how does one level the lathe?

Thanks
Glenn
 
Glenn Brooks said:
Ken,

Thanks for the tip on snugging down the tailstock bolts. One question - if the headstock feet are not bolted down to,the bench, how does one level the lathe?

Thanks
Glenn
Click to expand...

I've never leveled it. The bench/ cabinet it's on is somewhat leveled and that's as close as it has ever been leveled. That's why I leave the bolt loose on the tailstock end of the bed, so no twist is induced into the bed that would cause alignment problems. Look at some of the old South Bend Lathe catalogs, virtually every one of them show the 9" lathe on some type of wooden bench. I love to get my hands on a old SBL wooden cabinet they offered back in the late 1930's. Anyone who mounts a lathe on a rigid metal stand will have to level it, or at least level the stand and leave the tailstock bolts loose. May have to shim up under the tailstock end of the bed if any gap exists. Now, the 9" lathes that had the cast iron bases with the underneath motor countershaft setup, those lathes have to be leveled.
Glen, you don't have to listen to me, build the bench as you like to have it. There is no right or wrong way to do it as long as it is sturdy enough to support and handle your lathe, rather it's wood or metal. Some of these sheet metal stands that come with some of the Asian made lathes scare the crap out of me!

Ken
 
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