Belts... and why nobody changes them. :/

D

Dr.Fiero

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O...M....G....
I can see why the belt(s) on my ~1988 lathe still has what appears to be original belts in it, even though they're ratted out.

I've been ripping this thing down for what seem like hours on end. And I STILL don't even have the one belt out!
Got the back gears out without too much trouble.
Still battling with the rear V-pulleys and shaft assy.
Got part of the main shaft apart, but had to try a different area since the frustration level was getting too high.

Time to take a closer look at the parts breakdown. Would have been nice if the "service manual" actually said how to do this!

Yeah, I could go with one of those link belts, but I've heard too many people complain about them being noisy (and I hate noisy!), not to mention I need to change out the oil seals on the main shaft anyhow since I don't seem to be able to keep lube oil in it for any time. And it's super filthy in there, and needs a good cleaning out.

/rant. :D
 
why do you think nobody changes them (because we do...)

I'm not sure I am getting this post - Are you having trouble removing the belt from your machine?

If so, there is usually a release lever to remove the tension from the belt by moving one of the pulleys up/down making the removal of the belt a quick and easy task - check the parts manual or better yet - the user manual. if not- then forget what I juts said :)

I think the link belts are OK for what they are, they work fairly well, and are adjustable in lengths (customizable) - but they are sure as heck expensive as compared to a regular V belt of the correct size (x2-x4 in price usually).

Chears
 
I say 'nobody' half jestingly, but...

The main spindle shaft, back gears, and the rear pulleys ALL go right through the middle of the belt.
The ONLY way to change it is to virtually strip the machine (or go with a link, but that does nothing for my leaky oil seals!).
 
What type of lathe? Maybe someone has a tip or trick for it.

Chris
 
Dr.Fiero said:
I say 'nobody' half jestingly, but...

The main spindle shaft, back gears, and the rear pulleys ALL go right through the middle of the belt.
The ONLY way to change it is to virtually strip the machine (or go with a link, but that does nothing for my leaky oil seals!).
Click to expand...

ugh... my bad :whistle: - in my mind I see end belts that can be easily pulled off and replaced. I forgot about the flat belts like on some of the S.B. that are housed in the center of the headstock and do require a complete teardown or cut and stitch to replace. so in that reference you can always just cut the belt and re-stitch it (or replace it if it's warn)
 
I'm not sure what kind of belts you have (cogged or V), but I put the link belts on my Sheldon to keep from taking everything apart and never regretted it. I have since disassembled the headstock to replace a thrust bearing but the belts performed just fine for the two or three years I have had it. I will be putting them on my Sheldon mill soon.




Bedwards
 
They're V-belts (B32 to be exact!). It's on my BusyBee DF1224G.

As I mentioned up top - the link belt is all fine and dandy maybe, but I still need to swap out my aged oil seals.
It was late when I posted last. Been a rough day, and that all just topped it off.

I've gone over the parts breakdown, and I can now see what comes apart from what.
It looks like I need to pull a few more set screws, then I should be able to push the spindle shaft out over the bed.

The rear pulley setup might just be REALLY stuck and that's why I can't get it out.
 
Aha! Success. Just needed a fresh day, a parts list... and a brass hammer. :D

Started like this:
IMG_2008.JPG

All this and more "fell out" (ha! yeah right). This is only the main spindle:
IMG_2040.JPG

Which left me with:
IMG_2041.JPGIMG_2042.JPGIMG_2043.JPG


So - since this stuff isn't mentioned anywhere else on the web (that I could find after a few days!), hopefully Google will crawl it and find:
Motor to pulley belt: B31
Pulley to spindle belt: B32
Left outer oil seal: 65*85*12mm
Left inner oil seal: 55*75*12mm
Right inner oil seal: 60*80*10mm
Right outer oil seal: 80*100*12mm

I'll update this with the bearing numbers if I remember to look.

The drawing/parts list is wrong, and vague.
There's no numbers listed in it other than a reference, and they show the left side using one # for inner and outer, and the same on the right! <-- wrong.

One trick if anyone else needs to do this... there's a hole in the right side of the headstock casting that is plugged, then painted over! This little hole is critical, as it allows you take out the shaft that supports the rear pulley assembly (after removing the set screw that's hidden, pointing straight up). There's no way to remove the pulley shaft with the assembly installed (it's too long). Just guesstimate where the hole would be and tap it with a punch. Falls right in.

Time to grab some kerosene and start cleaning! FYI - methyl hydrate is WAY too wimpy. The grease just laughed at it as it ran away.

IMG_2008.JPG IMG_2040.JPG IMG_2041.JPG IMG_2042.JPG IMG_2043.JPG
 
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On mine the countershaft is held by the equivalent of connecting rods from an engine. They have removable caps to remove the shaft. Other than the tumbler gears being inboard on your lathe the interior of both our lathes are the same.
Pierre
BTW The interior of Mine is likely just as dirty as yours too! By taking the head apart you will more fully understand how it all works as well.
 
Yeah, I can see why nobody would want to change that belt. What a pain!!!
 
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