Atlas Refurb and Tooling

I was going to totally strip and redo the paint but I figured that circa 1957 paint was a high pribability of being lead based and the Hammerite would hide the blimishes and encapsulate the old paint well.
 
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Jamie,

I don't like to run down anyone's equipment so I will only say that I also have an iPhone bought new last year and I wouldn't inflict most of its photos on anyone.

Your Nikon must still be at its original factory settings. You can program it to make JPG's of around 200 KB which will still look OK at 4x Zoom. Over the past decade, I have tried half a dozen or so compressors and found none that work very well. The only thing I have found that works pretty well is software that can directly change the dpi of the uncompressed file independent of the compression algorithm.

Robert D.

Jamiethesquid said:
My iphone takes incredible pictures and it is always in my pocket. My DSLR Nikon digital is 12.5 Mega Pixels. Much too large to post here. I don't have the option to take the pictures in a lower resolution to start off with. Then I down sized them in an app to 480x360 and that was still too large. The next resolution down and they may as well be colored with crayons. I think I may just upload them to a flicker or photobucket account and post the link on here
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Thanks for the recipe Jamie!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Try IrFanView. Very good image editor.
Open the Pict, select resize/resample, set the width to 1024, make sure 'Preserve aspect ratio' is Checked,
then resave under a new name. This will give you a pict with a size ~100-200K, perfect for uploading and
it will still have all the detail.

_Dan
 
Thanks Dan. I had used that program years ago on the computer. I will have to give it another try. Really most of this problem comes from trying to use my iPhone. If I was on my PC I would have much more control. But even with a belt and suspenders the Laptop yanks down my britches when I put it in my pocket.

Was anyone able to see the Photo Bucket pics?
 
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Am I correct in my measurement that this lathe has a 1"x12tpi spindle?
 
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Jamie,

No. The spindle nose thread on the Atlas 618 and the Craftsman 101.21400 is 1"-10. The 101.07391 is 1"-8. The short-lived 101.07300 was 3/4"-16.

Robert D.
 
Jaimie,

If you haven't found this and still want it, the 1957 catalog still shows the 101.07301. The next Power Tools catalog printed is 1959/60. It shows the 101.21400 and accessories.

A site with URL of http://www.roseantiquetools.com/ used to have almost all of the Power Tools catalogs from before 1930 to after 1970 but it isn't coming up tonight. It was being run by the (I think) widow of the original owner. If you don't have any luck getting it to come up by tomorrow, PM me your email address and I will send you the PDF.

Robert D.

Jamiethesquid said:
That is a gem of a catalog. I would love to have one from 1957 that would show the origional accessories for my 101.21400.
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Thanks Robert, so you are saying that my machine is probably a 1959 vintage? I will try to obtain that catalog, if it doesn't work than I would be greatful to have you e-mail me one. I see the fault with my measurements of the threads. You'll have to pardon my ignorance, next semester is my threading on the lathe class. I obviously don't have 1" of clear thread in the spindle nose. So I took my digital caliper opened the jaws .500" and counted that one jaw was exactly on the peak of one thread and the other jaw was on the peak of the 6th thread. But the first thread would actually be thread zero. When I took my 5R graduated 6" rule I saw my error the threads were falling exactly on the 10ths. Thus as you said 10tpi. That gives me more options for chucks. I would like to find a 4 jaw when I have some spending money.
 
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