• This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn more.
  • Untitled 1

    As promised, a formal announcement has been made regarding recent changes in the administrative staff here at H-M.

    Please take a few moments to go to our home page and review that announcement.

[4]

Atlas Mill M1-61 drawings

[10] Like what you see?
Click here to donate to this forum and upgrade your account!

Airpirate

Iron
Registered Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2017
Messages
21
Likes
0
#1
Id like to make an arbor support part number M1-61 for my MFC Atlas mill. I plan to machine some 4140 steel and think the added support would help accuracy. Thanks
 

Airpirate

Iron
Registered Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2017
Messages
21
Likes
0
#3
Thank you very much. I searched this site quite a while with no luck. How did you find it?
 

CluelessNewB

Active Resistor
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2013
Messages
1,018
Likes
503
#4
Rudy Kouhoupt also wrote a few articles in "The Home Shop Machinist" called "An Atlas Mill Update". Part 1 was published in the July/August 2001 issue. It has diagrams and instructions for making one. It doesn't appear that back issues that old are still available. It may be contained in one of the collections but I'm not sure. You may want to try your local library.
 

wa5cab

Downloads Moderator
Staff member
H-M Supporter - Sustaining Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2011
Messages
3,804
Likes
758
#7
The original M1-61 Support Bar was made in one piece of cast iron. After the two clamping screw holes were drilled, reamed and tapped, the saddle bar was sawed off with a 1/8" thick slitting saw.

Comments on using or looking for anything in Downloads -

First, read the instructions in the Sticky Area at the top of this forum.

Because the Xenforo RESOURCES module, which was modified by the List Owner for use as a file DOWNLOADS module, has absolutely no sort capability, and the fact that there are nearly 2000 files currently in the system, and about 10% are Atlas, I created a lot of Categories (Folders or Directories and Sub-Directories) and in most cases was able in the lowest sub-directories to limit the page counts to 1. So you should never have to search more than one page of files. But before you start looking at file names in the right pane, first drill down to the lowest sub-directory or folder or category. Which in the current case is Atlas Mill Drawings.

I apologize for forgetting to put the Atlas part number (M1-61) into the Title. I just fixed that. And I also somehow on the same day uploaded two copies of the same drawing. I just fixed that, too.

Finally, if your mill wasn't originally a "C" model (MFC, etc.), there are three other parts (M1-60. M1-66 and M1-67) that you will have to make before you can use the support bar. I have the factory drawings for those and will upload them in a day or two. The reason that I haven't already is probably because when I got the drawings from Clausing, the M1-61 drawing was absolutely terrible. And I got bogged down in trying to clean it up, got tired of working on it for a while, and forgot to upload the other drawings.

I don't know who drew the drawing that is in Downloads. I have not checked his dimensions against the factory drawing because at the moment, they are illegible.
 

CluelessNewB

Active Resistor
H-M Supporter-Premium Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2013
Messages
1,018
Likes
503
#8
What type steel would be best to make this from?
Rudy Kouhoupt doesn't specify the type of steel used he just says "steel". He used a 0.25" thick x 1.5" wide bar for the slotted section and a 0.75" x 2.5" for the clamping part.
 

Silverbullet

Active Member
Active Member
Joined
May 4, 2015
Messages
2,444
Likes
1,114
#9
I have a question , would 1" x 3" x 16" aluminum bar work . If left a bit thicker say 3/4" on the top slotted part be strong enough? Just asking I need to or want to build one for mine . If I ever get fixed up by drs. 1" x 3" cast iron my be hard to come by.
One on eBay selling price $335.00 just for that support bar . But there hard to find I guess .
 

Airpirate

Iron
Registered Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2017
Messages
21
Likes
0
#10
There is a guy who makes accessories for the atlas at mymachineshop.net who sells one for 199.00 but since you have a machine and a couple threads up there is a drawing whay not make one from medium or low carbons steel stock. I also bought a arbor and draw in bar from mymachineshop.net fair prices.
Aluminum might work but the attachment points might tend to wear in. Maybe T3 or T4 might work.
 
Last edited:

Silverbullet

Active Member
Active Member
Joined
May 4, 2015
Messages
2,444
Likes
1,114
#11
There is a guy who makes accessories for the atlas at mymachineshop.net who sells one for 199.00 but since you have a machine and a couple threads up there is a drawing whay not make one from medium or low carbons steel stock. I also bought a arbor and draw in bar from mymachineshop.net fair prices.
Aluminum might work but the attachment points might tend to wear in. Maybe T3 or T4 might work.
I figured on using thin brass washers on the top so it wouldn't drag , I think ill try it , got nothing to lose but time and a piece of aluminum . I plan on machining about a thirty degree angle an inch in on the top end , front and back may be enough to give it the boss effect. Try to make it look like it belongs with the mill.
 

wa5cab

Downloads Moderator
Staff member
H-M Supporter - Sustaining Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2011
Messages
3,804
Likes
758
#13
I would use steel. Aluminum, regardless of the alloy or the temper, is just too easy to damage.
 

Silverbullet

Active Member
Active Member
Joined
May 4, 2015
Messages
2,444
Likes
1,114
#15
I would use steel. Aluminum, regardless of the alloy or the temper, is just too easy to damage.
I wouldn't use aluminum in a car engine either , but millions are running every day. Not much damage can be done to a part that only rides up and down with no working pressure. Any gulling that could happen would be protected by the brass thrust washers on the overarm support. Anyway if I can get the metal and my spine surgery over it won't be soon that's for sure. I'm on a no spending freeze for now , only the best deal will get consideration.
 

wa5cab

Downloads Moderator
Staff member
H-M Supporter - Sustaining Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2011
Messages
3,804
Likes
758
#16
Carbon steel would be fine. And easier to get in the correct starting size than cast iron. The reason that Atlas used cast iron is because it was a cast part.

My fifth Land Rover had an aluminum block 4.0 litre Petrol V8. After 17 years, it was still running OK. But I didn't take it apart several times a month, either.
 

Airpirate

Iron
Registered Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2017
Messages
21
Likes
0
#17
Carbon steel would be fine. And easier to get in the correct starting size than cast iron. The reason that Atlas used cast iron is because it was a cast part.

My fifth Land Rover had an aluminum block 4.0 litre Petrol V8. After 17 years, it was still running OK. But I didn't take it apart several times a month, either.
Thanks, I will go that direction.
 

wa5cab

Downloads Moderator
Staff member
H-M Supporter - Sustaining Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2011
Messages
3,804
Likes
758
#18
Drawings for the M1-66 Cross Slide Screw and M1-67 Bearing were just uploaded. These are two of the four parts required in order to install the M1-61 Arbor Support Bar on a B model or earlier. Drawing for M1-60 and reverse engineered drawing for M1-61 were already in DOWNLOADS.
 

wa5cab

Downloads Moderator
Staff member
H-M Supporter - Sustaining Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2011
Messages
3,804
Likes
758
#19
In case anyone missed it, installing the M1-61 Arbor Support bar on a B or earlier model requires three additional parts. M1-60 Arbor Support in place of M1-8. M1-66 Cross Slide Screw in place of M1-36. And M1-67 Bearing in place of M1-33.
 
[6]
[5] [7]