Atlas Horizontal mill

So I had to go back 3 pages to figure out where I / We had left off.. :)

And as I had figured, my working life gets in the way of my "non-working" life! :chunky:

Work has been a bear for 3 weeks now, I've gone from a regular 40 hours to being on-site permanently! :mad: BUT! we're hopeful the crush is soon to be over and back to "normalcy" by this weekend!:cheerful: So then I can get back to my projects - HOORAY!:eagerness:
 
I did make some time and repaired the broken u-joint. I simply copied the broken half of the joint located at the table drive.
A fun and interesting little project, not overly complicated for sure but a bunch of fun none the less! Kinda like, I wonder if - well this might work.. and then if I do this.. and then this... waa laa..
A simple little part sure brought a bunch of fun to me today! LOL..

An interesting part is the cross piece the joint pivots on... one pin is 1/8" and it passes right through the other pin which is 1/4" ! Took me a bit to figure that one out!:p
 
30_40,
I have a late MFC that I have yet to use. Have something interesting on mine that your broken u-joint post
spurred me to look at. Mine has one half of the upper u-joint made out of aluminum. In the parts box are
3 more unused and one broken one, and I think the original broken steel one, plus the gear under the table
that is missing teeth. I think the original owner bound something up and ripped up the gear and u-joint.
When he replaced the gear I think he made the aluminum u-joints to act as a fuse before busting more
expensive parts. Something to think about and keep a eye on.
He passed away about 25yrs ago and I got this mill and his Wade 8A lathe from his son. He was a very
good Machinist and I am happy to keep his tools together.
For a interesting read look up Wade 8A lathe history, awesome machine.

Take Care,
Rick
 
Interesting thought.. I think the roll pins could be replaced with an aluminum pin to act as a shearpin, and be replaced easier than a new u-joint.. same concept.
The u-joints themselves are probably "tougher" than the zamack gears in the gearbox they're connected to.

Thanks for the post Rick, great ideas!
 
34_40,
The gear that was busted in mine was magnetic so it was not zamack. I don't remember any gears in my mill
that were that material when I took it apart and cleaned everything, they were all iron. That was 9yrs ago so
I might not remember correctly. Interisting that they would put that material there.
Pick up something new every day.
Rick
 
Maybe someone more knowledgable will chime in but I'm pretty sure someone here said they were zamack.
Or maybe my memory is going the way of my wallet... getting slimmer each day!o_O

Making a shearpin in itself shouldn't be hard to do, but. getting it to shear at a known value (each time) will be a trick. On my lathe, the drive is set to slip the belt should it "crash".
It may be easier to setup the mill to do the same? It's a thought.:encourage:
 
The gears in the feed setup section are zamack. The gears that are under the table are steel.
 
Rob,
My broken gear that was under the table was steel. I guess the rest of the gears in the mill
must be a mix. I need to pull it out of storage and check it out. I need to check on it anyway
to make shure I I have it pickeled well enough and not picking up any rust.
Thanks for your reply,
Rick
 
The change gears in the mill, like some other parts at least with the M* and M*A are from the Atlas 618 and are Zamak. In applications where the teeth are thinner, they used steel. The same thing is true in the five QCGB models.
 
Thanks for clearing that up Guys!
 
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