Atlas 12/36 Question

[ChuckB]

Should I be able to lift the front of the apron up and down? I know the rear has gibs to tighten it up. Can not see any in the front when assembled. Getting some horrible cuts and this is one area that I didn't consider. Thanks.

 

[ChuckB]

Steve. So that means it shouldn't be that loose.. I think I will slide it off to see what you are talking about. Very easy to do. Thanks, Chuck

 

[ChuckB]

Chuck,

It shouldn't be loose at all. I would guess the clearance on mine is less than .002".
The more clearance, the greater the chance of chatter, among other things.

Steve Fox

I just removed and took the brass shim out of the control side and slid it back on.. better but still has considerable play. The long plate is worn/grooved.. I cannot flip it over because the screws wont line up.. I think I will try to true it on a granite stone with some sand paper..

 

[ChuckB]

Put it back together.. I didn't measure it before, but it now has .005 play toward the middle.. tighter on the end.. curse of the used lathe.. worn bed/ways.. I guess there's not too much I can do about it, right?

 

[Ulma Doctor]

i'm interested to know, Steve what forum did you read it on?
i haven't, as of yet, got to the point of measuring my bed yet out of fear of the findings.
i'm very interested in scraping and may attempt an overhaul upon gaining skill.
i am a mere grasshopper right now. i'm 43 , but doing my best to learn at least two things everyday from the HM forums!
thanks for the post,
mike

 

[ChuckB]

I guess I will live with it for now. I have a SB10L that I am restoring. I will never buy another flat way'ed lathe again or at least an Atlas unless it is in great condition and the price is right. I now truly know most of what to look for when buying a used lathe! I will sell this one and get most of my money back. Thanks for the help. Chuck

 

[pdentrem]

I placed a single Belleville washer on each bolt, this helped my variable clearance issues on my Atlas. It was reasonable snug by the HS and just right by the time I got half way down the ways.
Pierre

 

[Ray C]

I had an Atlas TH-42 for a few years. It was the first lathe I bought after not doing much machining for 25+ years where I previously used a LeBlond 16x54. The Atlas served me well but it was pretty well worn from 20+ years use at Bethlehem Steel in PA. The ways were worn about 0.007" near the headstock and that made carriage adjustment tricky for longer pieces. I eventually built hand tools to even-out the ways and I machined the carriage underside to match. -Had no idea what I was doing but it came-out much better afterward. I rebuilt just about everything in it and in between doing that, did enough side jobs to pay for the new lathe. They require a little extra care but they work and are great learning experience if you want to dabble in machine rebuilding. I took so much for granted with my dad's LeBlond and learned a lot with the Atlas... I sold the Atlas some time ago to a friend/neighbor for $300 which is what I paid for it -and he's enjoying it. Good bad or otherwise, they sure seem to outlast the people that use them...

 

[ChuckB]

I guess it's not too bad as long as I make deep cuts.. when I want to take a couple thous off is when I have the problem.. Maybe I will use emery cloth when I get to that point..

Also why is it that when I make a pass and back it off more metal comes off.. and then going foward again without turning the dial even more metal?

 

[pdentrem]

All machines do this, just some more than others. Every machine has tolerances and moving parts that have some play to allow movement.
What happens when you take a cut and then more metal is removed is a natural reaction called springing. The metal is slightly deflected away from the tool, just as the tool is deflected in the opposite direction. This why one takes a couple passes without moving the tool to remove the extra metal when one gets close to size. One wants to be careful as you get close to finish size as your final cut could be too little or too much.
Also the deflection will be more as the tool gets dull, and as well the further you are from the supported end of the piece. If between centers then the deflection is in the center and if only held in the chuck then the far unsupported end will be deflected.
Pierre