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Atlas 10" Headstock Variants & Information Request

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wa5cab

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#1
For the benefit of the probably few who will be interested, here is the "other story" that I was referring to in a post yesterday.

First, to get this at the top, one of the two 10" parts list that we have that actually gives the part number of the bare headstock casting is the bad photos and list one on the 10E. We have nothing directly on the 10D and the several illustrated parts lists that we have on the 10F only show the part number for the complete headstock assembly. So if any of you currently have your headstock off of the bed, please find the part number in the casting and send it to me at my user ID plus at CS.com. The number, which will be raised characters, should be found under the bottom of the headstock. It might be visible if one were to roll the entire lathe upside down or go at it with lights and mirrors but that would be difficult and I only know from one example that it is on the side rather than end but don't know whether front or rear side.

The part number should be in one of these formats:

10-2 (that would be on the earliest version).
10A-2
10A-2A
10D-2
10D-2A
10D-2B
etc.

With the part number will be most useful, but I also need the following:even if your headstock isn't off of the bed.

Part Number
Lathe Model Number off of nameplate (if present)
Machine Serial Number (stamped in front way near tailstock end)
Babbit or Timken Bearings
Vertical or Horizontal Countershaft (if known)
Bed Length (36, 42. 48, or 54)
Shape of protrusion from casting where motor ON/OFF switch is mounted. Known choices are:
None (if switch is house type mounted in electrical box, or separate reversing switch, so state, but still answer the next three questions)
Oval with hole in center of flat for mounting switch
Shape of hole, either round or rectangular or ?
Rectangular with rectangular hole in flat that clears switch body. Switch mounts to plate.

The currently known 10F illustrated parts lists begin with 10L-1A which introduced the Pick-O-Matic in January, 1946, and end with 10L-6 in June, 1966. Plus we have 10L-36-2 on headstocks and vertical countershafts dated May, 1947. All of these have three things in common. The drawings all show the rectangular switch protrusion, the photographs on the front covers all show the oval switch protrusion, and none of them give a part number for the headstock castings. I had for a while assumed that the drawings were wrong. But it turns out that the photos are wrong.

We do have one parts list (of the partial section view style, not illustrated) that does show part numbers for the Timken bearing headstock main casting. But the part number shown on the section view is 10A-2A while the one shown in the parts list right below is 10A-2B. So there is no indication as to whether that means 10A-2A is for the oval switch plate and 10A-2B for the rectangular. or whether one is a typo. Some data from actual headstock castings will answer that question.
 
Last edited:

John UK

Iron
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#2
For the benefit of the probably few who will be interested, here is the "other story" that I was referring to in a post yesterday.

First, to get this at the top, one of the two 10" parts list that we have that actually gives the part number of the bare headstock casting is the bad photos and list one on the 10E. We have nothing directly on the 10D and the several illustrated parts lists that we have on the 10F only show the part number for the complete headstock assembly. So if any of you currently have your headstock off of the bed, please find the part number in the casting and send it to me at my user ID plus at CS.com. The number, which will be raised characters, should be found under the bottom of the headstock. It might be visible if one were to roll the entire lathe upside down or go at it with lights and mirrors but that would be difficult and I only know from one example that it is on the side rather than end but don't know whether front or rear side.

The part number should be in one of these formats:

10-2 (that would be on the earliest version).
10A-2
10A-2A
10D-2
10D-2A
10D-2B
etc.

With the part number will be most useful, but I also need the following:even if your headstock isn't off of the bed.

Part Number
Lathe Model Number off of nameplate (if present)
Machine Serial Number (stamped in front way near tailstock end)
Babbit or Timken Bearings
Vertical or Horizontal Countershaft (if known)
Bed Length (36, 42. 48, or 54)
Shape of protrusion from casting where motor ON/OFF switch is mounted. Known choices are:
None (if switch is house type mounted in electrical box, or separate reversing switch, so state, but still answer the next three questions)
Oval with hole in center of flat for mounting switch
Shape of hole, either round or rectangular or ?
Rectangular with rectangular hole in flat that clears switch body. Switch mounts to plate.

The currently known 10F illustrated parts lists begin with 10L-1A which introduced the Pick-O-Matic in January, 1946, and end with 10L-6 in June, 1966. Plus we have 10L-36-2 on headstocks and vertical countershafts dated May, 1947. All of these have three things in common. The drawings all show the rectangular switch protrusion, the photographs on the front covers all show the oval switch protrusion, and none of them give a part number for the headstock castings. I had for a while assumed that the drawings were wrong. But it turns out that the photos are wrong.

We do have one parts list (of the partial section view style, not illustrated) that does show part numbers for the Timken bearing headstock main casting. But the part number shown on the section view is 10A-2A while the one shown in the parts list right below is 10A-2B. So there is no indication as to whether that means 10A-2A is for the oval switch plate and 10A-2B for the rectangular. or whether one is a typo. Some data from actual headstock castings will answer that question.
 

John UK

Iron
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Joined
Feb 27, 2017
Messages
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#3
Hi,John UK here;I have a Green painted "spare" 10" headstock.(used for turning large diameter pipes between chucks.the head is mounted on the bed in place of the tailstock).
There are no casting numbers on it.
Timken bearings.
Vertical coutershaft holes i think.
Switch mounting is flat,two holes with rectangular cutout.
This was bought here in the UK just as a headstock so no info on bed length etc.
It may be off a UK clone,eg Halifax or Acorn.
Incidentaly my 10" TV 54 has an Acorn QCGB but no idea if it was fitted later or not.
Without the casting no: I don't know if this information will be of much use to you or not.
Best regards John.
 

timmeh

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Aug 23, 2014
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#4
H/stock Pt #: 10D-2B (babbitt bearings)
Mod #: 10F (no I.D. plate present, has power crossfeed. Location(global) would suggest no alteration.)
Ser #: V19666S
C/shaft: Vert.
Bed Length: 42"
Switch: Rectangular with rectangular hole in flat that clears switch body. Switch mounts to plate.
 
Last edited:

wa5cab

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#5
Thanks. The rectangular switch plate dates it to 1942 or later and the vertical countershaft apparently dates it to 1945 or earlier.
 

unioncreek

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#6
Hi Robert,

I tore my lathe completely apart to clean it up and repaint. We've been exchanging posts on my purchase of the late in my other post.

Here's the info on my headstock:


Part Number: 10D-2B
Lathe Model Number off of nameplate: H54
Machine Serial Number: 025552
Babbit or Timken Bearings: Babbit
Vertical or Horizontal Countershaft: Horizontal
Bed Length:54
Protrusion of switch hole rectangular with rectangular hole in flat that clears switch body. Switch mounts to plate.
Power cross feed.
Reversible lead screw, diameter of lead screw is 3/4 inch.

If you need anymore casting numbers on anything let me know. There easy to get to right now with it all apart.

Bob
 
Last edited:

wa5cab

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#7
OK. Thanks. That confirms that when they made the transition from oval to rectangular switch plates circa 1942, they did it on both the Timken and the babbit bearing headstocks. And then only made the latter for another 2 or 3 years. That plus the serial number rules out it being a 10D that someone converted to power cross feed. I think that the rest of the lathe should all be the same as any other 10F.
 
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