Anyone Ever Make New Gibs For Lms 3900-series Mini-mill?

Hi all if you shim gibs- wedges tapered or parallel make the shim longer an fold up at each end the width of gid-wedge so that the adjusting screw pushes on it,there is on need to use glue to hold in place but it's up to you ,I have used this method without any problems in the past even with multiple shims
 
I think you're talking about shimming tapered gibs. From what I understand, you can't really shim gibs which use setscrews, or at least, not easily.
 
I think you're talking about shimming tapered gibs. From what I understand, you can't really shim gibs which use setscrews, or at least, not easily.

I agree; it is certainly possible but would be a pain. On the other hand, this type of gib shouldn't require shimming due to the adjustment screw configuration which is very different from tapered gibs (and not nearly as good).
 
Good advice Bob ! Epoxying a shim on the back of the cast iron gib on my 1944 Sheldon lathe cross slide tightened it right up.

Wouldn't there be worries about the gib & shim coming apart? I'm assuming that the job would require a certain epoxy. Thoughts..??
...Doug in Arizona
 
I agree; it is certainly possible but would be a pain. On the other hand, this type of gib shouldn't require shimming due to the adjustment screw configuration which is very different from tapered gibs (and not nearly as good).
That's what I was trying to slowly lead up to. The X2 doesn't use any tapered gibs, so shimming the gibs is of little to no value.
 
That's what I was trying to slowly lead up to. The X2 doesn't use any tapered gibs, so shimming the gibs is of little to no value.

Thanks Zoltan. Yeah, I really wouldn't want to just shim my existing gibs anyway. I'd much rather go to the trouble to fabricate new ones.
...Doug
 
Wouldn't there be worries about the gib & shim coming apart? I'm assuming that the job would require a certain epoxy. Thoughts..??
...Doug in Arizona

Doug, the shim must be placed on the stationary cross-slide side of the gib, not the movable side. Not only would the shim wear and possibly come apart but the advantage of the cast iron on cast iron bearing surface would be lost.

You are right in being concerned, however, regarding the epoxy. I soaked the gib in mineral spirits for several days, scrubbing it regularly followed by immersion in boiling water for about an hour. Clearly the purpose of all this is to attempt to release the lubrication that was applied over the seventy years of the old Sheldon's life.

The gib and the shim were then wiped down with denatured alcohol and a thin layer of "J.B. Weld" applied to both surfaces. The two pieces were joined and placed between two oily milling vise parallels. About eight small woodworking clamps were used to sandwich the assembly together and 24 hours allowed for curing.

After curing, the excess epoxy was cut/sanded off and the restored gib re-installed in the cross slide. I posted this entire process with photos on the Sheldon Lathe forum if anyone can figure out how to search their threads - I couldn't !
 
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