[Newbie] Anti-vibration leveling feet

[cobbonthecorn]

I will soon have a Logan 2527 and need anti-vibration leveling feet. I have seen them from $3-50 each. Which ones and where can I get them? Any good sources for used levelers? Thanks in advance!

 

[Starlight Tools]

Hockey Puck feet work really well. Used them on many of my tools, work benches etc.

They are easy to make.

Walter

 

[cobbonthecorn]

Walter- I did see those yesterday. How are they for vibration isolation? Thanks! Lee

 

[extropic]

Hockey Puck feet work really well. Used them on many of my tools, work benches etc.

They are easy to make.

Walter

What are "hockey puck feet" exactly? Picture? Brand name/model?

To the OP;
I've bought some off of eBay at prices far below retail. A search on "leveling feet" just returned 601 hits (most are not vibration isolating).

 

[hman]

What are "hockey puck feet" exactly? Picture? Brand name/model?

They're machine feet made from used hockey pucks.

You start out by searching eBay for used pucks. Lots of teams dispose of their used practice pucks there. In case you're not familiar with them, they're made of a nice hard rubber, easy to machine and with a bit of vibration damping. They also do a pretty good job of spreading the load.

One of many scenarios: Acquire four large bolts - 1/2" or 5/8" of 3/4". Chuck the puck up in the lathe and cut a pocket larger in diameter than the distance across the flats, but a bit smaller than the distance across the points of the bolt head. Press in the bolt head, and you have a machine foot with a threaded shank.

 

[extropic]

They're machine feet made from used hockey pucks.

You start out by searching eBay for used pucks. Lots of teams dispose of their used practice pucks there. In case you're not familiar with them, they're made of a nice hard rubber, easy to machine and with a bit of vibration damping. They also do a pretty good job of spreading the load.

One of many scenarios: Acquire four large bolts - 1/2" or 5/8" of 3/4". Chuck the puck up in the lathe and cut a pocket larger in diameter than the distance across the flats, but a bit smaller than the distance across the points of the bolt head. Press in the bolt head, and you have a machine foot with a threaded shank.

Thanks for the explanation. Crystal clear. I've never seen (in person) or touched a real hockey puck (born & raised in Tucson) so . . . no clue.

Thanks again.

 

[Starlight Tools]

Walter- I did see those yesterday. How are they for vibration isolation? Thanks! Lee

Bench Grinder, 8" Baldor, on a pedestal, used to slowly walk across the floor, once on Hckey Puck feet, never budged! Logan 9x28 lathe, on steel stand, could with effort as was over 600 lbs slide it across the cement floor, once on Hockey Puck's, only way to move it was to lift it off the floor.

Work Bench is on six of them and no longer slides around even when being pounded on.

Arbor Press, same thing, steady as a mountain.

They have a durometer of about 90 on the Shore C Scale, same as the feet used on the FootMaster leveling castors and most of the anti-vibration feet made commercially.

They work really well at stopping the vibration from travelling, keeping the machines from moving when not wanted to and even allow a heavy machine to be "leveled" and hold the level.

Walter

 

[Starlight Tools]

They're machine feet made from used hockey pucks.

You start out by searching eBay for used pucks. Lots of teams dispose of their used practice pucks there. In case you're not familiar with them, they're made of a nice hard rubber, easy to machine and with a bit of vibration damping. They also do a pretty good job of spreading the load.

One of many scenarios: Acquire four large bolts - 1/2" or 5/8" of 3/4". Chuck the puck up in the lathe and cut a pocket larger in diameter than the distance across the flats, but a bit smaller than the distance across the points of the bolt head. Press in the bolt head, and you have a machine foot with a threaded shank.

Start with a hockey puck. Drill through 1/2" diameter then counterbore one side 1-1/8" dia by 3/8" deep.

Next make the back up washers. these are 1/4" thick plate, cut using a 3-1/4" holesaw, then clean up in the lathe to 3" od by 1/2" id. Light loads can use thinner/smaller washers, but for real loads you need the 1/4" plate.

Slide a 1/2" carriage bolt, about 3-1/2" long into counterbored side, then place large washer over bolt from other side. Add a regular washer, a lock washer and nut and tighten.

Thread on another nut, add a washer then insert though hole in stand. Back up with another washer and a nut. use these nuts to raise/lower machine and lock in place.

Easy to make and simple to use.

Walter

 

[hman]

Thanks, Walter!

Yours is probably a better scenario than mine. I was going for the "easy button." )

 

[raven7usa]

Hockey pucks work great. They are 1" thick and 3" in diameter.