Another version of a ball turner

[ekrteam]

I'll warn ya first - this is my first project on my new used Smithy 1239 machine so I am getting familiar with it. I just got it put together and turned the brass knob for the handle that is in the picture. I used a HSS fly cutter mounted into my rotator base. A little unorthodox but it seemed to work well. I should be able to turn a 3" ball or up to a 4" diameter sweep with the tool. It should also be able to cut concave arcs into the work as well. I plan to put some graduations to help with set up and repeatability but it is pretty easy to use. Again, give me a little slack, I am a novice machinist.

 

[Old Iron]

Now thats really nice work for a novice:biggrin: Theres a lot of us novice machinist on here so you'll fit right in.

Paul

 

[Hawkeye]

Welcome to the forum. You've hit the ground running. I love the fly cutter - acts more like a tangential toolholder. I made mine to go up to 1 1/2" with a straight (horizontal) bit. Added a second slide for concave. You've got it all in one. Nice work.

 

[ekrteam]

I have some new ideas for this for also using the platform for taper cuts. Basically it involves a locking knob and a cross slide tool that will mount in the slot. I don't have a lot of room to work so profile may be an issue. I gotta think about this one a little more. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[ekrteam]

Hawkeye,

My first intention was to use carbide inserts for the cutting tool, then I was looking at my brazed carbide tools. What made me use the fly cutter was I liked the ease of building the holder and the small tool to not crowd the work area. I haven't tried it on steel and I am a little concerned about how it supports the tool with the cutting pressure down on it. We'll see!

Monte

 

[Hawkeye]

I have had the bit shift when using one of those flycutters. You could add an L-shaped bracket on the handle side with a setscrew to put a touch of pressure on the top of the bit at the tail end, or a bit closer to the center of the holder. It won't crowd the work on that side.

 

[ekrteam]

Here's a couple more pictures to expose some more detail. The first picture shows the underside of the rotator and how it mates to the base plate. I used a little wheel bearing grease as you can see.



The next picture shows the bootom of the base where I cut a recess bore for the locknut, fenderwasher and nylon washer. I have enough thickness in the base to cut out a miter guide rail for more stability if needed. I haven't decided if I will do this yet.



The next picture is a closer look at the tool holder. It has 2 set screws to hold the fly cutter in place.



The next picture shows there is a chamfered hole for a 3/8" taper head bolt to fasten the rotator and base together. I use the set screw holes for the rotator handle as I only need 2 of the sets at a time to secure the cutting tool post.

 

[churchjw]

Great job. This is on my short list of projects to build and this is great inspiration.

Jeff

 

[4R8]

Again, give me a little slack, I am a novice machinist.

Ha ha, mate, you keep bringing projects like that to the table and anyone who even thought of throwing flames would quickly get shot down. The best part about this place is the only flaming that gets done is in good humour, not to put someone or their work down.

Excellent job on the turner. I just bought some plans for one which is more in depth then required, I like yours better.

 

[Tony Wells]

I have some plans in a book I may scan, or redraw for a radius cutter that is pretty sophisticated. Uses a couple of machined ball bearing races and is actually manipulated by being connected to the tailstock, so it takes the hand pressure out of the picture. It may be copyrighted, so I'll have to check to see how old it is. I believe it's old enough to be safe.